Procedure for tightening the front axle nut?

When installing the front axle, the manual says to torque down the axle nut first, and then tighten the 4 small screws that clamp down around each end of the axle. Is this right? If I torque the axle nut first, I have to push the right fork (odometer cable side)in toward the tire about 1/4 inch to get the end of the axle to flush up against the outside edge of the fork. Is this the right procedure? Looks like it would be easier to tighten the two axle clamp screws on the right(non-threaded)end of the axle first, then the axle nut, and finally the two clamp screws on the left. I just want to make sure I do it the right way, as I can see how it might affect the handling if done wrong! Thanks for any help.


losen all four pinch bolts, then tap a small screw driver into the pinch slot of the rt side and now torque the axel nut. Now tighten the two pinch bolts on the left fork locking the axel on the left side. Now with the screw driver still in the rt. side pinch slot so the fork can move on the axel take the bike off the stand hold the front brake on and pump the front end up and down as hard as you can. Now pop the front end off the ground using a stand and rotate the front wheel fast and then slam on the front brake. Repeat the wheel rotation and slaming on of the front brake. Now remove the screw driver and torque the two pinch bolts on the rt. side.

The above procedure(s) assures the fork tubes are parallel which is a must or you will side load you fork seals and they will fail early!!


[This message has been edited by Clark Mason (edited 08-17-2000).]

[This message has been edited by Clark Mason (edited 08-18-2000).]

Thanks for the quick reply Clark. I had to read through your procedure a couple of times, but it finally sank in and made perfect sense. One note for clarification, I think when you said "with the screw driver still in the lft. side", you meant to say "rt. side", since the screwdriver should remain in the right pinch slot the entire time. (Right?) Thanks for the help Clark.


[This message has been edited by Tim in WA (edited 08-18-2000).]

Hi Clark, which side is right side?

The side with the brake rotor or the other?



'98 WR400F, YZ timed, main:180, pilot:48, DVR needle 4th clip from top,

snorkel removed, YZ tank/seat combo, YZ front no.plate/rear fender,

DSP Ti exhaust system, Brembo front brake,steel braided hose, EZ clutch adjust perch,

Stroker billet rear brake reservoir

Thanks Tim for catching my typo I updated the post.

To me the right side is the side on the right when seated on the bike. ie the side opposite the brake rotor. The brake rotor is on the left side.


[This message has been edited by Clark Mason (edited 08-18-2000).]


i do the same as clark but leave the brake out of the equation. i pull the caliper off.

pump the forks with your right footed side (bolts) still lose, while compessing the forks tighten them.

next, with brand new pads & the caliper pumped in & out once or twice; pinch the caliper direct to the brake rotor. turn the wheel forward & see if it's an intereference fit with it's mounting points or is there a gap?

i used to bond .005"-.025" shims to the legs, turn the wheel spacer down or add a shim to the spacer on the wheel spindle if necassary.

you want both pads to leave the rotor alone & both to arrive at the same moment. if one pad has to be pushed back by the rotor the other has to go back by the same amount (in sympathy) creating a relatively large gap on that side.

this is all lost pump time when you pull on the lever, & at it's worst some people have had to take two pumps to get a brake. the difference when the pads are right is dramatic.

the improvements are four-fold. one, you get an immediate brake with the lever further from the bars. two, there is no friction to sap your bike of power. three, you don't wear out the disc nor do you warp it. four, your pads will wear evenly.

a sure sign on a road bike that your caliper is out of line is when one pad wears well ahead of the other. on the dirt we have to take muck & grit into account, but the principle is the same.

on the roadracers i used to help set up, i put a .005" shim in the middle of the caliper (yes, i mean the middle). this reduced the friction to zero & i used to push the bike to scrutineering at snetterton (up hill) with one finger!

it had the added benifit of meaning that the oversized & 'wooden' mastercylinder i was using was now perfect!

as usual somebody won't understand what the heck i'm on about due to my inability to put things on paper. if i can help-fire away.


So Taffy,

Let me get this straight. When you spin your tire, there is no brake drag AT ALL? I also align as Clark states. I do have some pad riding of the rotor. I figured this was inherant to disk brakes, since I have seen this my entire (mechanical) life.


Hay man you are working too hard relax slow down and smell the roses.


sorry i'm late with the reply.

haven't tried it with the yam, but you should be able to get these things down to zero friction with a bit of TLC.

the thing that really reduces the friction is the .005" shim in the middle of the caliper. i've done this on a couple of jap calipers but i don't have my WR4 here-it's in the isle of man waiting for my arrival on wednesday.

Clark. said it before don't take this self effacing stuff to seriously-i don't, neither should you.

i'm either bad at writing it or you're all...

the caliper feels wooden to me which would indicate that the piston size is slightly large & would lend itself to this mod quite readily. if you think the "feel" is OK then don't put this idea into effect.

when i road raced i had to learn everything that didn't cost a lot of money. reducing friction was one of them.

clark, do you really have time to stop & smell the roses? thought so.

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