00 wr4 Aussie version cam/jetting question

I am unsure about yz timing on "00"wr400 Aust version, when I move exh cam back one tooth neither the exh/inlet cams rh side marks are visible both are exactly 1 tooth below top of head is this corect? From what I've read exh should be in this position and inlet should be at 12 O'clock from top of head L & R marks both visible, If this is corect then aussie versions inlet cam must also be changed but advanced 1 tooth instead, or some one messed up at the factory? When in YZ mode james recomends using jet needle EKN#4 would this be the same for Aussie Bikes as we get the DRQ instead of the DRS(Possibly because we get full throttle from factory the richer needle would cover the extra revs Y/N?Any feed back would be very helpfull as my local bike shop mechanics would'nt have a clue.THANKS!?!?!?

in a perfect world you would be correct. your first job is to make a note by DRAWING all the relevant marks & holes etc.

if it ran perfectly good, just turn that exhaust cam back one tooth & go for it!

we'e all had the same trouble, just be accurate in what you do & it will all work out fine.


I have a 2000WR Australian model and have changed to YZ timing. It sounds like you have lined up the wrong mark on the fly wheel for both cams to be out by 1 tooth.

There is spark firing mark as well so make sure you line up the staight line.

With WR timing the left mark on the exhaust cam and the right mark on the inlet cam should line up with the gasket surface of the head. With YZ timing the right mark on both cams should line up with the gasket surface so you should just turn the exhaust cam 1 tooth clockwise.

As for jetting with YZ timing try the standard DRQ needle in the 2nd clip position from the top( 2 leaner than standard) and a 45 pilot, 170 main with the fuel screw about 2 turns out. Adjust the fuel screw to suit conditions. You may need to adjust jetting slightly depending on your exhaust and altitude but this should put you in the ballpark.

Thanks fellas, I think it's right the I mark on the fly wheel is lined up, the right side marks can just be seen and the left marks are approx 1 1/2 teeth above the gasket surface, went for a run at this setting feels stronger, slight drop just before 1/2 throttle raising clip 1 or 2 grooves should sort it out, Currently running 170 main, clip in #5 groove,#42 pilot, 2 1/2 turns out on mixture screw, Open air box, Staintune s/s header & silencer,I think I'll change to 172 or 175 main and #45 pilot. still keen on trying the EKN needle too, any advice/tips appreciated, Thanks for your time.


one thing at a time andy!

MJ first, then needle. don't change the PJ if your happy with it. i was recommended 48 & used it coz 'they said so' gone back to 45 & it's lovely.


3:00 AM over here, Can't sleep thinking too much about the bloody jetting. Maybe when I do get to sleep I'll dream up the perfect combo?

G'day, can anyone please tell me which air jet is being referd to be changed to a #100 M.A.J./P.A.J.1. or P.A.J.2 ?

the one that says 200 is the one you change


Thanks, just gotta wait a day and a half for a couple of jets & EKN needle I'll let you know how it goes.


EKN#3,#168 main,#45 pilot,#100 air,1 3/4 turns out, open ss exhaust, open air box, YZ timing,Totaly diffrent bike stronger more useable power,and what about torque!! mid to top end is unreal,THANKS EVERYONE !!


Thanks Taffy It's (pilot air jet 1)the one that says #75 I figured this out after a bit more research, thanks anyway as I learned a bit more about jetting through the extra research.



you'll have changed the correct PAJ but i told you the wrong one!

you can't get them wrong but i don't want you getting confused!


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