Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Important Information - Master list DO NOT DELETE

Recommended Posts

From robertaccio April 2006

Rear break line chafe(one time inspection)

Just an FYI and for inspection. My 06 TE450 has a chafe issue where the rear brake line curves rearward from the master cylinder. The anti-chafe cover tube has all ready worn through and the braided steel flex line has cut into the engine case. The impact is minimal at current inspection period, but long term potential is unsatisfactory. I will loosen the banjo bolt/fitting and slightly re-index the angle that the fitting comes off the master cylinder, to eliminate further chafing throughout the travel range of the rear suspension.

edit - this is the braided line from the brake caliper - not the line from the reservoir to the master cylinder.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

The thing you put in place of the throttle stop is a:

Needle Set Screw - It appears to be Sudco part # 021-727, Keihin #1421-802-2000. Here is a link to the sudco catalog, it is on page 101 -

http://sudco.com/cat32/2006%20Vol%20...atalog.pdf.pdf - DO NOT click on that if you have dial up because it is 40mB long...

While you are at it check out page 106 of that catalog, that appears to me to have the most accurate graph of which sections of the carb affect which throttle position that I have seen.

================================================== ===

Re-jetting requires removal of after market fuel screw - at least if the bowl needs to come off. After spending much time looking for the O-Ring & washer on the garage floor (butter fingers) decided the prudent thing to do would be to find some extras.

Ordered these on Monday and just received them today (Friday) from Sudco. The only other place that seemed to have them was JD.

Keihin part nimber.............."description".............pric e

KE 021.041.......................1290-812 spring.......$2.31 ea

KE 021.042.......................16075-KG8 O-Ring.....$0.63 ea

KE 021.045........................0301-803 washer......$0.53 ea

While jets from Sudco come in 4 packs these do not but there is a $15 minimum order so wound up with 4 of each to make the minimum order...

The only downside - the shipping was a bit more than they estimated ($9.30).

Another place to buy washer/O-ring/spring for $4.99 is: http://www.stealthracingtech.com/catalog.htm and http://www.hammerheaddesignsinc.com/order-accessories.html

Jdjetting.com sells them too.


Odd leak jets are available at the OEM TT store, also:

The 2005 250x seems to use a 55 & 65 leak.

JET, LEAK (#65) 99108-KSC-0650

JET, LEAK (#55) 99108-MEB-0550

And of course jdjetting will sell an assortment of leak jets.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

2004 bikes only I believe - "Flame" sent me some files and am attaching them to this post. Believe his is a 2004 TE510.

Here is a thread with more details:









Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Every 1000 miles-

Take the cover off the flywheel (set bike on its side so the oil doesnt come out, or drain the oil first)

Wipe the metal dust suspended in oil off all surfaces, especially where it is magnetically suspended.

Failure to do this will eventually suffer the stator to short. The dust/gunk will cause it to arc.

This proceedure is mentioned in the owners manual somewhere, but it will be new to guys who rode bikes without a wet stator.

I found out the hard way. '05 San Felipe 250, 40 miles from the finish....not good.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

How to install an estart in a 2006 TETC250 - by 'Ride'

September 2007

Well as many of you know i have had an E-start kit for my 2006 TC250 (w/300cc kit) for quite some time. I just today got the nerve up to install it. Lucky for those that want to do this I took some pix and documented the install. There were some very interesting moments because there really is no good guide for this and the parts catalog is lacking to say the least. There are some very important points to cover and things to watch for.

OK, here it is...

First off let me say that i had to figure stuff out and make assessments based on gut feelings and this is scary when installing a bunch of gears inside the engine. That said I must say as a disclaimer if you follow my instructions and your engine eats stuff it's not my issue. I'm just providing info. don't shoot the messenger. :thumbsup:

1. Remove the clutch side engine cover.

2. Remove the clutch basket

3. Remove the big nut on the crank. NOTE: it is left hand thread. A impact gun works wonders here.

So you are looking at this...estartinstall1.jpg

Remove the aluminum collar on the crank shaft.

Now here is the tricky part with no GOOD instructions and a few crappy pix from the service manual. There is a collar, big washer, needle bearing, one way clutch and the BIG gear to mount with little indication how. I struggled for a while with this.

The collar has a recess on one side. I mounted it both ways and it only works one way but you do not know this until you install everything and see it.

Here is the collar and it goes recess down (flipped from picture) to fit over the crank and all the way to the bottom


Then the big washer, then the needle bearing and finally the big gear. NOTE: you have to take the circlip and gear off that drives the oil pump to get the big gear in there.


I guess i missed getting the picture of the big washer installed but it is number 29 here, the stepped collar is 30. The washer looks nothing like the picture with the OD being MUCH larger.


So here it is all assembled and oil pump drive gear going back on.


Now the next tricky part. The one way clutch that goes inside the flywheel. I ended up putting it in wrong the first guess. Easy to tell as the big gear will free wheel counterclockwise and lock clockwise when installed right.

Looks like this apart


Looks like this all ready to go back on the crank. You insert it into the flywheel which is a little bit of a struggle and then you have to get it over the crank end. A little tap with the rubber mallet worked fine. Do not force anything (ever). NOTE that the one way is installed with the clip up and included thrust / retainer snapped over it. Once you have it all installed check that the bid gear spins freely only counterclockwise.


Time to drop the other gears in, this was pretty easy. A few things to note. The Sprag gear the starter engages gets a collar and a washer on each end. Install those and drop it in as shown.


Then drop the included shaft in with the step side up and install the gear on the shaft. See the washer and collar installed on the sprag here


Drop the multi armed retainer on and bolt it down. Here it is all ready to go.


Now bolt the clutch basket, hub, plates and pressure plate all back on as they came off.

NOTE: make sure you tap the plug out for the starter before you put the engine cover back on. Also clean the green hard glue stuff off that held it in as the starter will not go it if you don't ALSO make sure the little o ring on the oil pump and case are in place before installing the engine side cover.


Button the engine back up.


Next is the wiring. This is pretty straight forward, most stuff is connectorized so it is easy to see where it goes. I did not snap pix of this stuff but can if people have questions. There is a regulator that bolts tot he front of the frame behind the number plate and has a connector, easy. There is a D cell sized gizmo that mounts to a tab by the coil and has a connectorized lead, easy. Mount the bat box and start switch which also has connectorized plus, easy. The battery connections were a little confusing. I'll snap some shots and post.


As to the wiring i just ran out and shot pix. Like i said the components were easy as they had semi obviously mounting points and connectorized leads. The starter switch was easy, one connector and one ground lead which goes to the coil bolt. The battery was my biggest confusion and I'll freely admit I am no genius when it comes to wiring. Here is how it goes...



UPDATE: i have a couple hundered miles on the install now and all is working perfect. I would say you can take my above install to the bank. Just wanted to let you know as i had to make some guesses and those seemed to be the right ones.

BTW, it is amazing how liberating the E-start is and I am hard pressed to feel the difference in weight when riding.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is how to reset kilometers to miles (or opposite):

1. Start engine.

2. Pushing knob scroll A switch to screen where displayed SPEED, ODO, and RPM (on vertical LED indicator).

3. Stop engine and push knob scroll A.

4. Start engine while pushing for 3 seconds knob scroll A.

Note: After the previously described operation, ODO setting will be converted and all others data will be reseted (the hours counter is unchanged).

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this