best oil

I like using Motul 5100...another ester synthetic base stock lubricant.

I use full synthetic lubes in my other vehicles because I believe they offer superior engine protection compared to petroleum-based oils.

I hesitated at a full synthetic in my thumper because of the clutch and tranny...however, I used full synthetic lubes in my street-bike engine and never had a problem.

Interesting discussion.


I think the owner of this site said it best, "the best oil is the oil that gets changed often."

I personally like Yamalube 4-R and have been very pleased with it. However, theres lots of other oils on the market that are probably just as good.

I just bought my wr450 used and the last owner used 10-40 motul synthetic, so I dont like switching from synthetic back to regular so I will probly stick with synthetic. The only thing when I looked a the Motul V300 4T 10-40 it had friction modifiers which I gess are bad for these bikes, then they only had motul 10-50 1500 4T which did not contain friction modifiers.

I think the owner of this site said it best, "the best oil is the oil that gets changed often."

+1, change when needed.

FWIW: I stick to Mobil 1, and Shell Rotella.

+1, change when needed.

FWIW: I stick to Mobil 1, and Shell Rotella.

Oh you can use automotive mobile 1?on these bikes?

There was a couple of auto vs motorcycle oil tests/analysis done a few years ago.

Part 1

Part 2

I use Amsoil. The only reason I would change it is because of contamination;




-lots o' metal flakes

I'm going to use the 10w40 Amsoil in my Yam WR426 until it gets a bit dirty, then get it analyzed. Even slightly 'discolored' the oil should still be 'good'.

However, when there is only 1.5L there's not as much cost.

What I got from those articles was that Yamalube sucked, and Amsoil did quite well. In Vancouver, a good MC full synth goes for about $17 per quart.

Amsoil is $10 a quart, and better at that. I run Amsoil in my 2005 R1 as well, and when I switched from Motul semi-synth 5100, I noticed way smother shifts and a bit lower temps. I really like the idea that if my 426 overheats a little, the synthetic will protect the top end more effectively and maybe reduce the overall valvetrain wear.

A little side note about current auto oils...

The cam manufacturer CompCams (and others) for various auto performance engines has had big problems recently with the new auto oils. They just do not contain the additive package they once did. ( as stated in earlier posts)

Brand new flat tappet cams (solid and hydraulic) are wiping out the lobes during initial break-in on a regular basis, causing quite a stir within the performance community. There is now 'break-in' lube to add to your oil to let the cam break in with as little stress possible. Rollers obviously don't have the same problems.

Shell Rotella-T 15w40, designed for diesels is supposed to be one of the only regular oils available that is still formulated with a good additive package. Also recommended for break-in.

my $0.02


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