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2-stroke oil for infinite inlet valve life?

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Has someone tried runnning a little premix to lube the inlet valve/ valve seat?

I don't want to hear that the valves should be no problem if you clean your airfilter, or use steel valves (which I will), or that it lowers the octane rating. Could perhaps mention clog the muffler... you get the point.

Just being curios if a little premix would make the titanium inlet valves live forever. What do you think?

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Bad idea. Very bad idea. The oil in the fuel will make deposits on the valves. Like if you tad a leaking valve seal. The deposits will make the valve run hotter. Bad thing. If you wasn to make the valves like longer use a led additve. I know the KTM dealers have it. I think it is Motor X. Iv had great results with it.:thumbsup:

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I've been using Marvel Mystery Oil at a ratio of 2 oz. per five gallons of gasoline, with excellent results. I wouldn't use the premix, either...

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I've been using Marvel Mystery Oil at a ratio of 2 oz. per five gallons of gasoline, with excellent results. I wouldn't use the premix, either...

Dang, I had no idea they still made that stuff. "Top cylinder oil" I think they called it.

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Dang, I had no idea they still made that stuff. "Top cylinder oil" I think they called it.

Readily available at a finer auto parts store near you!:thumbsup:

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Send out some Marvel Mistry for analysis and I bet it comes back as ATF..good stuff...

I ran Klotz at 150:1 for quiet a while. The only reason I stopped was because it was a pain to try to remember. But I think running it when the thing is new helps with mating the valves to the seats a little.

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Send out some Marvel Mistry for analysis and I bet it comes back as ATF..good stuff...

It definitely is the right color...

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Not to start an argument, but I wouldn't recommend using premix or any other oil based additives to your gasoline. You are essentially leaning out your air-to-fuel mixture and setting yourself up for headaches later…but at the moment you are decreasing your horsepower since oil particles don’t burn at the same temperatures gasoline particles do. Moreover, those oil particles are now taking up space in the combustion chamber that use to be gasoline particles. Now it is not a lot, but it is relative to your mixture, the higher the ratio of oil-to-gasoline/air the less gasoline readily available to be burned. Additionally, you’re leaving extra deposits on the combustion chambers surfaces (spark plug, valves, valve seats, piston crown and cylinder walls). All can lead to hard starting or dieseling later at some point.

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Not to start an argument, but I wouldn't recommend using premix or any other oil based additives to your gasoline. You are essentially leaning out your air-to-fuel mixture and setting yourself up for headaches later…but at the moment you are decreasing your horsepower since oil particles don’t burn at the same temperatures gasoline particles do. Moreover, those oil particles are now taking up space in the combustion chamber that use to be gasoline particles. Now it is not a lot, but it is relative to your mixture, the higher the ratio of oil-to-gasoline/air the less gasoline readily available to be burned. Additionally, you’re leaving extra deposits on the combustion chambers surfaces (spark plug, valves, valve seats, piston crown and cylinder walls). All can lead to hard starting or dieseling later at some point.

You're statement makes absolute sense, but the MMO is made specifically for this application and has stood the test of time. I've known people that have used it forever without issue. It can't be leaving deposits nearly as troublesome as the lead-substitute additives that some people put in their fuel system.

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I just sold my 04 and it still had the original valves in it. It's my opinion that the valve life is linked to how you service your air filter as opposed to how often you service your filter. I service my air filter only when it gets really caked with dirt which is about 3-4 hours of ride time on average. When I do service the filter I disassemble the subframe/airbox and clean every nut and bolt. I believe many people unknowingly drop dirt into the airboot when they reinstall the filter through the top of the bike. If you service your filter every time you ride and you do it through the top, you are just increasing the odds of dropping dirt in the engine.

The other factor is temperature. Trail riders often overheat their bikes and I think that is hard on the intakes, especially the left one.

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Not one to fuel the fire but these lines have been told to directly....

From my dealer--> If you are planning on running race gas it is recomended you add 2 oz of premix to cool the cylinder head.

Now imho this would cause a lean condition raising the temps........ right ?

From my suspension tuner---> What kills the valves is not keeping them adjusted properly and bangiing the motor off the rev limiter.

As far as MMO ,,,,,,,,,, its a mystery to me

ALL HAIL TEAM USA !!!

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I just sold my 04 and it still had the original valves in it. It's my opinion that the valve life is linked to how you service your air filter as opposed to how often you service your filter. I service my air filter only when it gets really caked with dirt which is about 3-4 hours of ride time on average. When I do service the filter I disassemble the subframe/airbox and clean every nut and bolt. I believe many people unknowingly drop dirt into the airboot when they reinstall the filter through the top of the bike. If you service your filter every time you ride and you do it through the top, you are just increasing the odds of dropping dirt in the engine.

The other factor is temperature. Trail riders often overheat their bikes and I think that is hard on the intakes, especially the left one.

Good point about getting debris into the airboot. I'll always hit the inside of my airbox/boot with the shop vac after a good wiping with a "cleaner" towel to be sure I've got all the crud out.

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I agree (to whom?) that what rpm range you drive in could affect the valve life. I don't know the valve trains resonanance frequensis, but I guess you have to pass it somewhere during the rpm range. If you drive there you should get accelerated wear. For some friends the valves seem to last forever, and some wear them out more frequently.

would be interesting to see durability cycles run with and without fuel additive. What life time is normal for the inlet valves now? I know things seem to have improved over the years.

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Steel valves last longer than TI. I had a new head w/ 8 hrs on it, I ran a hare scramble this weekend, and there was a 1/2 mile straight after a fourth gear sweeper. Towards the end of the race this straight got supper whooped out and the last three laps I accidentally bumped the tranny down to third from 5th gear pinned/wrapped out. Since I didn't know I was in third I kept the throttle pinned, now my intake valves are zeroed out. The point being that over-revving the motor is bad for the valve train. Marvel Mystery Oil also works good as after shave.

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Steel valves last longer than TI. I had a new head w/ 8 hrs on it, I ran a hare scramble this weekend, and there was a 1/2 mile straight after a fourth gear sweeper. Towards the end of the race this straight got supper whooped out and the last three laps I accidentally bumped the tranny down to third from 5th gear pinned/wrapped out. Since I didn't know I was in third I kept the throttle pinned, now my intake valves are zeroed out. The point being that over-revving the motor is bad for the valve train. Marvel Mystery Oil also works good as after shave.

now theres a unique alternative use I've never heard of!:thumbsup:

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