Wiring info:This could save you a walk home

I have a 2004 Dr650. Never had a single problem until it stranded me at work at 1:00 in the morning and left me with a 5 mile walk home. Hit the starter button and nothing. After a tow home the next day, I start to trouble shoot the electrical system. I find there's no power getting to the starter relay. After checking all the other relays, switches and diodes, I find the problem. The clutch lever position switch wire(yellow with green stripe) is routed around the left fork. It then goes into the wiring harness behind the headlight where it connects with a male/female connector. I'm guessing that locking my bars a few hundred times, pulled that wire loose. It's definetly worth checking to see if that wire has enough free play while moving your bars left to right. I hope this info saves somebody else a walk home.

i cut the two wires and spliced them together, now no worries!

I have a 2004 Dr650. Never had a single problem until it stranded me at work at 1:00 in the morning and left me with a 5 mile walk home. Hit the starter button and nothing. After a tow home the next day, I start to trouble shoot the electrical system. I find there's no power getting to the starter relay. After checking all the other relays, switches and diodes, I find the problem. The clutch lever position switch wire(yellow with green stripe) is routed around the left fork. It then goes into the wiring harness behind the headlight where it connects with a male/female connector. I'm guessing that locking my bars a few hundred times, pulled that wire loose. It's definetly worth checking to see if that wire has enough free play while moving your bars left to right. I hope this info saves somebody else a walk home.

First electrical mods remove the clutch switch and bypass then the side stand switch:thumbsup: . I like my bike how i want to start it not how some motor vehicle compliance officer decides i need to.:confused:

Regards Aussie

i cut the two wires and spliced them together, now no worries!

No need to cut anything.

unplug the clutch switch connector behind the headlight and plug the loose ends into each other.

No need to cut anything.

unplug the clutch switch connector behind the headlight and plug the loose ends into each other.

Did the same thing myself after falling over on a trail and it wouldnt start. Gonna keep it that way now!

First electrical mods remove the clutch switch and bypass then the side stand switch:thumbsup: . b:naughty:

Regards Aussie

Make sure you don't drive off with the sidestand down seen guys crash because of this. Lean into a corner, the sidestand lifts the rear wheel of the ground and down you go

Make sure you don't drive off with the sidestand down seen guys crash because of this. Lean into a corner, the sidestand lifts the rear wheel of the ground and down you go

Shouldn't be a problem as it has motard wheels with the stock stand so as soon as you sit on it you HAVE to put the stand up.

Regards Aussie

you know what might be a cool idea...bypassing the sidestand switch so that rather then it stalling the bike out it lights a small 12v LED somewhere in the dash area that indicates when the sidestand is down or up (only when ignition is on of course). Seems like it would be very easy to do with existing wiring.

you know what might be a cool idea...bypassing the sidestand switch so that rather then it stalling the bike out it lights a small 12v LED somewhere in the dash area that indicates when the sidestand is down or up (only when ignition is on of course). Seems like it would be very easy to do with existing wiring.

That is a really great idea! I believe switch activates a relay, you would need to tap into the output. Or, eliminate the relay all together and just break the 12vdc circuit when the kick-stand is up. All depends if the switch is NC or NO. Will have to study the schematic a bit more but it should be pretty easy to do.:cool:

'Funny, I rode bikes for years without any sidestand or clutch switches. Somehow, I managed not to kill myself by starting it in gear or riding off with the sidestand down.

'Funny, I rode bikes for years without any sidestand or clutch switches. Somehow, I managed not to kill myself by starting it in gear or riding off with the sidestand down.

agreed...... its cus of all the (and no insult to the green riders out there but) dummies that never had layed eyes on a bike.... much less rode one, till the day at the dealership that this stuff is needed. i beleive that darwinism should weed out these people from riding...... not safety switches and gismos. once again, no insult to the green riders.... we all do have to start somewhere:thumbsup:

its kinda the theory behind why i cant buy a new. its not meant for a guy like myself that can drive the car properly without all the computers, sensors, and gizmos that make the car nearly drive itself for the lack of driver ability or skill. :cool:

And eliminate the Neutral Light, High Beam indicator and turn signal indicator while your at it. :cool:

Seriously I agree lock out switches are over the top. The problem is the sue happy attorneys that force the manufacturers to put this kind of stuff on their products to protect the consumer from themselves.

Reminder indicator lights like a blinking LEDs are cool, lock out switches that can be prone to fail and leave you stranded somewhere are not.

No need to cut anything.

unplug the clutch switch connector behind the headlight and plug the loose ends into each other.

So what specific switches do i have to look for behind the headlight?? :cool:

So what specific switches do i have to look for behind the headlight?? :cool:

ok,

1. first off you'll want to remove the front headlight fairing. this will make it easier on you.

2. then, look to your clutch lever. underneath it will be a small switch looking deal with a wire loom hanging off it.trace that loom back from the switch over to the headlight area. it will lead you to the 2 bullet type connectors that they plug into.

3. disconnect the two plugs and connect the 2 plugs coming from the bike end together. they should be 1 male, 1 female (wich makes it simple to cancel it out the safety switch)

4. toss the wires that lead into the clutch perch. i cut off the wires directly behind the switch and used a dot of silicone to plug the hole in the switch so as not to leave an open area for dirt to go into.

5. before you bolt everything back together, turn the key and make sure it starts WITHOUT having to pull the clutch lever of course.

6. if you got it all right, bolt your cover back on and ride :applause:

I had this problem on my '06 when I was up in AR in the middle of nowhere. The mild corrosion on the contacts by the clutch lever was the problem I need to eliminate that by connecting the wires.

I've also had my bike stall on me before, and had to bum a ride back to the camp, only to learn that it was a loose electrical connection under the seat right behind the right side number plate.

A lesser worry - Loctite the bolts that hold the protective grill to your oil cooler. I just had to replace mine because it fell off. The bolts spin out easily.

No need to cut anything.

unplug the clutch switch connector behind the headlight and plug the loose ends into each other.

that's the way it's done. suzuki uses a m & f so it's a snap. some markets the clutch switch is not use so this is their standard wiring practice.

Make sure you don't drive off with the sidestand down seen guys crash because of this. Lean into a corner, the sidestand lifts the rear wheel of the ground and down you go

Makes for great video.:cool:

'Funny, I rode bikes for years without any sidestand or clutch switches. Somehow, I managed not to kill myself by starting it in gear or riding off with the sidestand down.

Kommando, okay, be honest now. Where you ever embarrased by doing one or both?

Just kiddin you.

Flea

I had the same problem. Luckily, the shop was only a mile away so I pushed the bike there, and they fixed the problem.

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