New Edelelbrock - HELP!

OK, I got this new carb 2 weeks ago, put it on last Sunday following the outta-the-box & it runs theory. Following the directions/suggestions from Edel., tried to start the pig - nothing, nada. Played with the idle adj, kicked & kicked & kicked - nothing. Thought maybe is was way lean, so I started playing with the "clicker" - kicked & kicked & finally got a pop/backfire outta the exhaust - by that time it was o-dark-thirty & I had to put it away.

During the week, I got a suggestion off another forum, that maybe there was some sort of gunk/goo plugging "something". OK, fine. Yesterday, I roll piggy out, pull the carb, tear it down & clean everything - a waste of time IMO, 'cause it looked brand new, which it should, because it is. Put it back on & following my "theory" of being real lean, I moved the clicker way up to 8 clicks out. Kickiing it now, I get a somewhat more frequent pop out of the exh. & the occasional backfire through the carb, but still no joy at all after a playing with everything, except a real tired leg.

My bike ran "ok" with the Keihin w/a 178 main, 68s & needle at 2nd clip. It wasn't dialed in perfect, but it was ok. Unfortuantely I added a header when I swapped carbs so that complicates things a bit, but it was a "2-kicker" dead cold w/a lil choke with that set-up.

My current set-up:

Air box side panel is cut/drilled, Uni filter, no backfire screen, Leo Vince header, 2 bros muffler with the "simple" screen-type spark arrestor. Otherwise stock (cam, compression, etc)

I'm @ roughly 3800' and daytime temps are ...mid 70's(?) & dropping. High desert - low/no humidity.

I ran a search and saw a few posts from guys @ 5-6000 feet running the 17 needle, & started thinking maybe I'm going the wrong direction on the mixture?

Whatever the case > I'm lost - with a real tired leg & desprately in need of help. Real help, not smarty comments, which are always very cute but of absolutely no help whatsoever - thank you very much. I'm not looking for "perfect" tune info (though that'd be nice), just trying to get in the ballpark to get it to light off.


edit -> oh, & just where should the float level be? Edelbrocks tuning directions tell you how, but say look at the supplement for a spec, & the supplement doesn't mention float level at all.

I'm at 1200' NE Pennsylvania. My R is similarly equipped, T4, side panel, Uni, etc

My Edloebrock is running a #19 neddle and the MAT is set at 19 clicks out.

A really big factor for starting my bike if the engine is cold is to crank in 2-6 turns on the Idle Adjust before I try to start it. Yeahy, give it 2-3 twists of the throttle too, but I've found it is more unforgiving if you do not have the idle cranked up when you try to start it.

The good news on the idle adjust is there's no such thing as "too much". If you crank in more turns than needed the bike will just idle a bit fast when it starts, and you dial-out a bit to bring it down.

Re float level, t is rare in my experience to hear of an improperly adjusted float in anew Edlebrock. I'm not ruling it out, just saying I don't think that's the problem.

I'd reset your MAT to about 17 clicks OUT, crank in some idle adjust and give it a couple of squirts of throttle and see what happens.

I hope this helps.

Good advice from InternalCombustion. My son's Edelbrock equipped BRP starts best cold by setting the idle adjuster up, 3-4 squirts on the throttle, don't open throttle while kicking, let the engine warm up a few minutes after starting. Carb has 19E needle, 15-18 clicks out from full rich on the adjuster depending on ambient temperature.

I've found on most of my bike with pumper carbs . I give it three or four good squirts before I start it. Set the carb at the richest setting you can. Get it started and tune from there. Did you pull the plug? If so was it wet?


I'm going to go back the other direction on the clicker & crank in some idle.

I'll post what happens & THANKS to all for the input!

Well, a little late on the follow up, but it might help somene else in the future.

After playing a little more with it on the bike, I ended up pulling it back off & starting from square 1.

I disassembled the carb (again), throughly cleaned everything (again), adjusted the float level - which apparently is supposed to be 7/16" below the accelerator pump breathing tube. Mine was about 9/16" below that & it's still not @ 7/16's but closer than it was. I understand fuel level isn't anywhere near the issue with these carbs as it is with others, I was just trying to cover all the bases. Using the 19e needle, I went 18 clicks.

HERE'S where the difference was - I downloaded the supplement off Edelbrocks website & found that the version posted there has significantly different idle speed recomendations than the supplement that came with my carb. The supplement I got said to adjust the idle speed so the slide waws ~1/8" open. The sheet I downloaded states to adjust the idle speed 1.5 turns from the point the adjuster 1st contacts the throttle wheel - which isn't anywhere near 1/8" slide open (at least as I measure it anyway)

Long story short - with the carb set like that, I gave it 2 pump shots and the 1st kick I got a "almost" start, 2nd was a repeat of the 1st kick. Gave the idle speed 1/2 turn more, & 3rd kick it fired right up - sweetness! :ride:

A quick ride and all I can say is "my, oh my" - Unkorkin was a must, Uni filter & cutting the box was nice, the HRC tip was just plain loud, the 2 bros muffler was alright & the Vince header was ok, BUT a pump shot is what this bike's been missing! - it's a monster now! :thumbsup::busted:

Good going!:thumbsup:

Yeah, cranking in additional idle-speed before starting is the best trick I've found, to insure a 1-kick start. You can always dial it out after its started.

I've particularly noticed that when the bike is stone-cold, not run in 24 hours or so, mine has a tendency to "almost-start", on the first kick. I think my 2-3 turns on the idle-adjust are not enough (with 80-90 degrees air temperature). So, to avoid the "almost-start" I think I'm going to start experimenting and adding even more turns than I already do on the idle-adjust, before I try to start.

And, with cold weather coming to the northeast I'll add even more. Its a whole lot easier to crank down the idle-speed once the bike is started, than to kick it an extra 2-3 times because I did not crank in enough to begin with.

We'll see.

In any case I am very glad to hear you've got yours sorted out and are enjoying your new "pump shot" equipped 650R. :thumbsup::ride::busted:

FWIW on my xr4 I'll give it as many as 5 pump shots before kicking on a full cold start when it's really cool out.

Even then I find I have to 'catch' it and keep it running by actively blipping the throttle for a bit...

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