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Rear Sprocket


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Same here but be careful, use grade 8 sprocket bolts, tighten correctly and recheck regularly. They do have a tendency to come loose more than regular sprockets. I use the 51 often for tight NW trails but I've never used it on a track.

Yep, I agree. I've had some problems w/my bolts coming loose w/the ironman. I went through a bunch of those aftermarket grade 8 bolts before finally re-installing the stock bolts/nuts - broke them off tightening them. For some reason, to me at least, the stock sprocket bolts/nuts seem to work way better. Have you priced them though on the Kawi online parts, though? Sheesh! They want a fortune for them. Next time I get to a dealer I was going to check w/them to see if that was a mistake.

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Agreed, but I'm not conviced the aftermarket bolts I bought were actually grade 8 (buyer beware). I've had much better luck with OEM bolts, I've used Kawi and Honda both. I like the Kawi bolts better because they have a larger allen on the bolt side, I like the Honda nuts better because they have a 14mm head instead of 12mm.

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Great responses, but I totally agree with Open Class! You should always gear to the different tracks you ride on. I have a off-road and mx version of the '06 450, and they are as different as night and day. MX I absolutely love the 13/48 combo (especially on the starts!) MOST of the time, but there are times I'll run the 13/50 gearing also (tighter tracks etc..). My off-road bike never gets below a 13/50 combo in any GNCC'c or Hare Scrambles, and I have a 51/ 52/ 53 also for different off road courses. I run the Vortex sprockets and absolutely love them, heck they just survived three hours at the IRONMAN GNCC with all the rocks and mud (wasted a rear brake rotor, but the sprocket side was fine!). Anyhoo, never be satisfied with one set of gears, as a little testing will make a good bike great!

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I always use stock bolts and when tightening be sure to tighten the nut on the back and not the allen in front. If you tighten using the allen that is what snaps the bolts.

That's why I prefer the Honda nuts with the 14mm head. A larger wrench makes the easier to torque and harder to strip. Dito for the Kawi bolts. :worthy:

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I'm still stuck on the fact that someone would purchase Destry Abbots old bike (or any Pro's old bike for that matter)?

The bike should be good for another ride or so :worthy:

Gives the term,"Used bike" a new meaning.... Again, IMO.

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Well the bike was in great shape when i got it ,,, but i suck at total upkeep it only had 30hrs on it .. Ive put alot more on it.. and it still runs strong ,,, Id probably win more races if i wasnt such a puss about getting on the throttle full blast wide open,,, but the beast has great power STILL..... I am sure i got a lot more rides comming ? out of that bike

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Mine came with a 50 rear 13 front. Whats the 48 doing on there. Anyway a 3 tooth difference is a big difference. Its gonna be a lot lower geared right? Quicker to rev out and shift and a lot less top end.

You went the wrong way , it will geared higher,team green suggest 13-48. they(whos they?? )say it make 2nd gear last longer with less shifting and with more top end .Not only in each gear but higher top speed.:ride: have not tryed it but want to:ride:

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tinman you got a lot of answers already. The one you needed was just posted before this. ie. 3 teeth on the rear is an absolutely massive difference!

A new question related to rear sprocket size: Can anyone give useful advice on expected handling changes due to rear axle positioning and the effective swing arm and wheelbase length? I would assume:

Rearward/longer = straight line high speed stability. Better in sand.

Forward/shorter = better shock dampening control of the rear wheel. Better turning in very tight ruts.

Second question: How many people doing laps and geared so they frequently need to shift down 1st and back up? I run a 50 or 51, and I usually gear just to avoid needing 1st - because I don't like unexpected neutrals.

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