On my D/S kit (pro cycle) I run the headlight off of the A/C circut. No matter where I leave the switch the headlight go off when the motor stops. This way I never have to worry about draining the battery. I went through maaaany batteries on my Baja Designes D/S kit for my XR650R by leaving the head light switch on. For the XR a battery elliminator solved that problem.
My WR's headlight is nice and bright working off of A/C power only. It also allows all the D/C power to go to the battery instead of sharing with the head light. My battery is allways full of juice no matter how long I ride at night. I wired the head light with bullet connectores so I could switch the headlight to D/C power just in case I need light with a dead motor.
I use LED turn signals that draw very little battery current.
The factory LED tail light was designed and pre-wired to work as a brake light. It's super bright and draws very little current! When it's in the tail light mode it runs off of A/C current. For some reason while in brake mode it runs off of D/C current. The only lights that will come on when the bike is not running are the turn signal and brake (not tail) light.
So, the only thing that draws from the battery is on demand stuff like the horn, starter, LED signals, and LED brake light (only when brakes are applied). Never had the slightest sign of battery drain yet.
If your running you lights off of the battery and did not rewire
your stator for a floating ground circuit ,you only have 35 watts feeding your whole bike. stock the bike has two 35 watt coils run ac for the lights and one regulated to dc to charge the battery and run the cdi. the kit bridges the two together giving you a single 70 circuit . the way you got it wired now I would say don't ride in the dark or you'll kill the the battery.
baja designs web site does not have a listing for the stator rewiring kit ,I called them about it
Thanks.....I've got the guy at Dual Sport America looking into the issue. Says a new stator with 100 watts from ricky stator is the way to go, or just re-wire to run the headlamp off of the AC generator with a diode to convert from AC to DC,,,,,,much like a selenium rectifier does with the older bikes. I'm going to take my time and figure this out and will report back with what the best alternative is.
with a 100 watt stator you'll still need a new rectifier .the stock wr one can't handle the current . I think the stock stator rewired is plenty I ride around at night on low beam.
the stator rewire is basically a free mod you just hook the two
coil rows together in the middle. baja charges like 6 bucks for the isolator tubing and stuff to do the job .as far as the rectifier goes just buy anybodies rectifier big enough to do the job . I also moved my rectifier under the tank on the bracket for the air injection valve . because my fork hit the bigger on in the stock location . I don't know if it was the bigger rectifier or my applied triple tree that caused it , but baja's rectifier bolted up in there like it was meant to go there.
Anyone heard of this product from this Vendor?
Wonder why it is listed for the YZ and not the WR as well?
Anyone know the output of the stock WR Stator?
the stator looks like it would fit ,but the ignition pickup looks wrong
Progress made on building a homemade luggage rack / rear fender brace for my WR with YZ body work. Very simple and made from 3/8" tubing and some flat stock.
Next up..........installation of the 100 Watt Ricky Stator.
You can see all the pictures by going here and scrolling down to the bottom.
be sure to have spare tires. your bike will burn yours off leaving a grin on your face:ride:
That's a very nice looking luggage rack! I'll take 3!
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