New to me 2001 650R, Ready to MOD!

My life is complete once again. Nearly 6 weeks ago tragedy struck, my 3-month old Toyota Tundra with two XR650Ls in the back was stolen out of my driveway. My buddy and I loaded the night before for an early start the next day to a dual sport event. My wife said it best when she stated that everything most important in my life, materialistically speaking of course, was taken in an instant.

The truck was replaced, my buddy's bike was found in good shape, but mine is still missing. Couldn't take it anymore and bought a mechanically sound, cosmetically challenged 2001 XR650R. I had been intrigued with the R ever since I bought the L so I went for it this time. Bike is plated and I'm ready to start the overhaul.

Ordered so far: fenders, graphics, hand guards, handle bars, grips, pipe.

To do: Confirm the bike has been properly uncorked. I live in the northwest near sea level. It looks like to me I should be using 172 main, 68s pilot, and B53 needle on the third click. Would appreciate confirmation.

Considering: Desert tank, heated grips. The bike has the baja designs dual sport kit, but I am unsure about the status of the stator. Will I have problems operating the lights in conjunction with the heated grips if I have the stock stator?

I am very familiar with the L but am learning about the R. Any recommendation from the experts regarding items I should inspect during my teardown I would appreciate.

My motorcycle almost gives me as much enjoyment when thinking about riding as I feel when actually on my bike.

im an L owner too, and i have always been fascinated with R too.

i know they are night and day, but how is it to you?

Immediate impression is how much smaller the bike seems and how easy it kicks. Now, I did have the Clarke 4.3 gallon tank on my L and the R is stock, but the R feels WAY lighter. I used to ride a Honda 350X three wheeler as a teenager and you needed shin guards to protect your legs from the kicking backlash. The R is a breeze compared to that. Haven't even ridden the R a mile yet so I can't comment on the performance. Looking to get the bike prettied up first before I take her into public.

keep me updated...

may make an R owner outta me!

still never get rid of my L though..

No clue on Stator.

Does your bike have the charging system (DC regulator?) or does it run the blinkers/horn/brake light from a battery only?

Might want to check out the headlight assembly also. Some of the older BD headlight assemblies are heavy with the battery and electronics. The metal brackets crack and break.

172 or 175 main. There are 2 needles, B53E (HRC) and B53D (Stock).

Check your right foot peg bolts and kick starter bolts regularly.

Zip tie the Radiator shrouds to the top of the radiator fin assembly.

FMF Q/Q2 pipes suck for that bike.

UFO rear fenders have big holes above the top subframe bolts. Patch them up with duct tape or something. Otherwise you suck dirt off the tire.

Stock tank gets about 65 miles. You can extend it going slower to about 80 miles max.

I got home from work last night and the plan was to start the tear down immediately. I wanted to get everything cleaned up, checked out, and fixed before I even rode it a mile. Well, I couldn't stand it and I took it out for about a 5 mile ride. Holy ****!!! This thing does not even compare to my 650L. The thing is almost downright scary powerful. I had my L running very well, but could hammer the throttle and not feel out of control. Not true for the R, it is going to take some getting used to. Hard to keep the front tire on the ground, hard to hold on.....I love it!

I thumbed through the service manual from the previous owner. He had written in the carb section 172 main, 70s pilot, and B53E needle. Based on how it ran last night and this discovery, it appears the bike has indeed been uncorked. Later on I also found it has a UNI air filter and the air box has been properly uncorked. Less work for me!

I took off the fuel tank, shrouds, exhaust, seat, etc. to clean everything up. Did notice that the radiators had been ziptied. It has IMS foot pegs and they seem tight. Will check the kick lever tonight. Not sure about the power supply of the BD kit, but it does have a 12V battery behind the light assembly.

The front rim is a little beat up, but unnoticeable unless riding on the smoothest roads.

Goodies should start showing up on the front porch today!

Sounds great! You need to routinely check the two bolts that fasten the peg bracket to the frame on the right side.

I think I know the kit that you have. There is a aluminum block mounted to the metal board next to the battery with wires going in/out. That is your DC regulator. It probably has a black plastic top face with a capacitor underneath the plastic.

Oh yeah, I remember noticing that one of the two bolts than connects the footpeg to the frame was a replacement. I'll keep my eye on it. Obviously has been a problem in the past!

Assuming I have the DC regulator set up, any idea if I can tap into the headlight power supply to run heated grips without overoading the system?

Another thing to mention is that the bike is prone to overheating in slow going, though uncorking it and re-jetting does seem to help some. If you don't need to worry about freezing, then I would swap out your antifreeze with some water wetter and distilled water or Engine Ice. I have also removed the thermostat. Just make sure you warm your bike up for a couple minutes before taking off if your remove it though(no brainer). I also purchased a KX100 radiator cap which is rated at 1.6-1.8 depending on the year you order, but it's rated higher than the stock 1.1psi cap. Helps it not quite boil over so easy.

Keep the antifreeze in my opinion unless it gets over 90 degrees. Water + water wetter needs to be flushed every 3 months or so if you want to keep the engine and radiators from getting corrosion.

No clue on the heated grips. I would give it a try and see if the headlight is dim when they are on. If you ride during the day, just turn off the headlight on the trails.

Only will corrode the radiators if you use water with minerals in it ie: tap water or bottled drinking water. If you use distilled/de ionized water no need to flush the system because the impurites are already taken out of the water. Just a heads up.

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