Stiff spring C & R clicker guesstimate for an R

OK - I've replaced the springs F & R on my R, and I'm looking for ballparky guestimates on where to start with the compression/rebound adj..

I'm working with the stock valving at the moment.

Front springs are .47's running 5wt oil 'cause it was the lightest I could find locally, rear spring was replaced with a 10.5

I'm roughly in the 225-230lb range geared up, & would like to think I ride kinda quick - in the desert mostly, but I'm perfectly aware that I'm really not the fastest thing around. (& yes, the springs may be a bit on the stiff side for me, but... that's what they are)

Bike's kinda the "typical" R, only real difference is I've got a 7 gal tank on it, although I've yet to actually put 7 gallons in it.

I realize any suggestions are going to be rough ballpark & that's cool - just looking to get in the area so I can begin some personal fine tuning & I am NOT a suspenion guru, nor are any of my buddies.

I'm thinking with the stiffer springs I want to go softer on the compression & stiffer on the rebound than the factory recomendations - but how far on those, & at each end of the bike, I really don't have a clue. :thumbsup:

I went through the same process as you this summer, I am the same weight as you also. I got the same front springs as you but I got the 11kg shock spring. I didnt want to revalve yet either so I stayed with the 5wt fluid and stock shim stacks, I asked this same exact question to the xr650r suspension guru here (i'm sure he'll chime in) i'll post his answer below, it worked for me well this summer, and I am in the process of changing my shim stack to his Baja racing setup.

to quote BWB63

Going to Ultra lite (2.5wt or 3wt) fluid, in the forks will help the plushness of the ride a lot without re-valving (changing the shim stack). Even at this fluid you can exchange some of the rebound control for compression adjustment. You will not get the full bennifit but, going with 11 clicks out on the rebound and 14~15 clicks out on compression will help. rebound may be a little loose at 11 clicks out but, ou will start stacking at 10 clicks out. This is were the shim stacks start making all the difference but, it will be night and day difference in the forks with the thinner fluid. You will not have the full control of the compression ether but, close. With a stiffer shim stack you would adjust out as far as 16 clicks out but, without it you may have to stay at 14 clicks out. Start at 16 and as the bike bottoms clicks in one and then maybe another till it stops. Adjust the rebound to stop the bounce but, you will have to compremize if it starts stacking (and it will) Staying with the 5wt stock fluid in the shock will give you close to the same problem just in the other direction. 11 clicks will/might make you stack too soon but, if you ride on the tank instead of back off the seat where you belong you will start to swap the back end. So, you have a problem here with wanting more rebound to stop the swap but, the thicker fluid will make you stack faster. This is why you need to change the shim stack, letting you go to 2.5wt fluid in the shock with a stiffer shim stack to control the bigger hit and control rebound much more evenly.

Getting back on track;

You will still be more in the ball park of control with the spring that will control your weight but, you are loosing the rebound control you need to bring the much more spring tention under control. The thicker fluid will want to hydrolic quicker. So, on the shock the compression adjustment (is on the resivour) you would want to start at about 16 clicks out from full in and the rebound (down at the bottom where the shock mount to the linkage under the swing arm by the chain) 11 click out from full in. You may settle in some where around 16~14 compression and 11~12 rebound. It is a compremize. The forks have the rebound on top and the compression is under the rubber plug in the bottom of the forks. 11 clicks out on the top and 16~14 on the bottom. The shock will feel a little sluggish and the forks will feel a little to quick but, this will be close to the best control you can have with your setup once you fine tune it for your riding style.

Hope this helps :thumbsup:

There isn't a full answer in the quote but, that about covers it. The forks and shock were designed to use thinner fluid and larger compression valve ports in the forks but, Honda was trying to make the suspension work for the heavy guys and the little guy......just can't be done the cheap hirty way they approached it. Honda went to even smaller ports in the compression valve for 2005 on. This was done to help support the very heavy riders that are known to buy this bike. It just made the suspension harsher as it helped slow down the compression. Thinner fluid does give the ability to us more rebound control and by doing that you will get more compression control at the same time, letting you open up the compression bypass (compression adjuster at the bottom of the forks, top of the shock) by no means will this fix the suspension but, just make it better. 11 clicks on the top of the forks and 14~16 clicks out on the bottom of the forks (under the rubber plug) with 2.5~3wt will help. The shim stack change is needed for the extra control of the stiffer spring and more/faster fluid movement. Shims stack change does not support the weight of the riders but, the movement of that weigh in relation to the spring support of that weight. 10 clicks out may not be to much control for the springs in the forks to start stacking.....most of the time it will.


Thanks guys!

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