Crunch406

What did you do to your DRZ today?

19,035 posts in this topic

17 minutes ago, ClutchinChrisG said:

I installed the Magura Hydro clutch kit on the Z. It's an easy pull anyways but the hydro clutch eases it even more. I had to do some filing on the actuator lever down on the motor to get the thing to fit as well as manhandle bend my Acerbis bark busters to clear the clutch lever. It is a farther travel lever while having no cable friction. The end result is effortless one-finger clutch actuation as well as a nice wide band of engagement.

I want to go Tubliss next. :)

What kind of lever options do you have with the Magura perch? Mismatching levers annoy me, especially if you can't go shorty for both.

I want to go Tubliss with my 17"s but they don't make em!

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5 minutes ago, HansLanda said:

What kind of lever options do you have with the Magura perch? Mismatching levers annoy me, especially if you can't go shorty for both.

I want to go Tubliss with my 17"s but they don't make em!

My experience with tubliss had not been good on the moto side of stuff. Extremely out of balance and a pain in the butt to install.

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6 minutes ago, HansLanda said:

If I had 17 inch spoked rims and all I rode was street I wouldn't consider Tubliss. I'd get the lightest gauge tubes I could find, talcum powder them up and take them to a local shop to be balanced.
Regarding the previous poster saying the balance sucks, well likely it's not much worse than a heavy tube. But definitely million times better than bolting an aluminum beadlock in.
I haven't looked at any other lever options, but if you do research I bet they exist. I honestly am not much into trying to make my Z look nice, so I didn't even consider it, just wanted the functionality of the lighter and more precise clutch pull. I got it I think. Time will tell if it holds up.

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44 minutes ago, HansLanda said:

This is the only form of tubliss I have used and it was on my moto bike. The position of 2 valve stems and the bead lock made the wheels so out of balance that I noticed major wheel hop going into corners in 3rd gear.

I currently have tones in my sm and the Diablo rosso corsa's front and rear. Both of them managed to take zero weight to balance. For the minimum weight that light duty tubes added I'll stick to what I have right now.

28-7000-3.jpg

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14 hours ago, LoLoSama said:


any reason for the road in the rear ?

13 hours ago, HeavyRotation said:


I run the same set up, it's so you get that feel from the front and better wear in the rear. On the pavement, all a rear tire does is follow the front tire around, rarely really important. I wear the sport touring rears faster than a track/street front because they spin a lot but still slower than a track/street rear because of the harder compound. Usually get 2500-3500 from a front and 1600-2500 out of a rear. Have run power 3 with road 3, road 4 both good. Really like Diablo Rosso Corsa front with Diablo Rosso rear. Diablo Rosso Corsa front is the best steering and feedback of any steetable compound front tire and I love the steep carcass profile, it steers like a razor. I liked the Dunlop q2s but hate the q3s. Anyway, try it, always put the best, softest most awesome feeling tire you can buy on the front and just drag whatever you want around on the back.

^^  Pretty much what HeavyRotation said.  I did some research and saw some others running this setup and was looking for a bit of a longer wear rear.  I was still running the stocker up front and had a Pilot Power 2CT on the rear.

 

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14 hours ago, alexkenison said:

This is the only form of tubliss I have used and it was on my moto bike. The position of 2 valve stems and the bead lock made the wheels so out of balance that I noticed major wheel hop going into corners in 3rd gear.

I currently have tones in my sm and the Diablo rosso corsa's front and rear. Both of them managed to take zero weight to balance. For the minimum weight that light duty tubes added I'll stick to what I have right now.

Could you not have just balanced your wheels?

Edited by HansLanda

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I run the same set up, it's so you get that feel from the front and better wear in the rear. On the pavement, all a rear tire does is follow the front tire around, rarely really important. I wear the sport touring rears faster than a track/street front because they spin a lot but still slower than a track/street rear because of the harder compound. Usually get 2500-3500 from a front and 1600-2500 out of a rear. Have run power 3 with road 3, road 4 both good. Really like Diablo Rosso Corsa front with Diablo Rosso rear. Diablo Rosso Corsa front is the best steering and feedback of any steetable compound front tire and I love the steep carcass profile, it steers like a razor. I liked the Dunlop q2s but hate the q3s. Anyway, try it, always put the best, softest most awesome feeling tire you can buy on the front and just drag whatever you want around on the back.

ok, i rode street for a ling time, my last sport touring bike was a zzr 1200 that i kept for 7 years. always ran the pilot power on it (then pp 2 ct and even foynd a pilit pure for the front)
of course the front here is the most important but at the same time a good rear is nice too. once my rear broke loose in the rain and i alnist high side...
those Pirelli are great tires too !
FB_IMG_1490033181782.jpg

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ok, i rode street for a ling time, my last sport touring bike was a zzr 1200 that i kept for 7 years. always ran the pilot power on it (then pp 2 ct and even foynd a pilit pure for the front)
of course the front here is the most important but at the same time a good rear is nice too. once my rear broke loose in the rain and i alnist high side...
those Pirelli are great tires too !
FB_IMG_1490033181782.jpg.41457f3593b5fb10d963732d875ab988.jpg

I slide both ends of my street bike regularly, the rear especially. When I purchase a rear that will stay hooked up, it lasts a max of 2k, I can get another 1500 from an ST tire while sliding and spinning it so that's the route I go. 20160402_184141.jpg

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I slide both ends of my street bike regularly, the rear especially. When I purchase a rear that will stay hooked up, it lasts a max of 2k, I can get another 1500 from an ST tire while sliding and spinning it so that's the route I go. 20160402_184141.jpg.3db1d573353ef792b644c6220b40b9e5.jpg

well, you are not supposed to drift all the time....lol
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1 hour ago, HansLanda said:

Could you not have just balanced your wheels?

I tried one said it was going to take 5.5 is. There isn't much room on a moto wheel for that much weight 

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On 5/24/2017 at 4:40 PM, 150ron said:

Added a OEM rear rack 

oem rack.jpg

oem rack1.jpg

The OEM bags are really nice, if they're still available.

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I removed the windshield, as it is warming up here on Oklahoma.  

I do not really like having a windshield on the drz, but in winter it is nice. 

Edited by Blasters Fan

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I removed the windshield, as it is warming up here on Oklahoma.  
I do not really like having a windshield on the drz, but in winter it is nice. 

i leave it all year long here in vegas...lol
mostly for wind and debris protection.
I'm thinking of making a custom one. something like this with LED light.
the first pic is more or less how it is now, 2nd is only 1 piece that i would like to make,
20170512_182437.jpg20170513_131756.jpg
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A sprocket cover is a real bad idea in my area. Have never even seen an aftermarket version, surprised there is demand.

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10 minutes ago, YHGEORGE said:

A sprocket cover is a real bad idea in my area. Have never even seen an aftermarket version, surprised there is demand.

 Because of mud?

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A sprocket cover is a real bad idea in my area. Have never even seen an aftermarket version, surprised there is demand.

Do you run some kind of case saver instead? I run a cover on all my bikes because I don't want to break (another) case.
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