Case cover, what material is it?

I have a 05 450 with a hole in the case by the shift shaft and was wondering what material it is made out of? I just pulled the engine out of the bike tonite and have some homework to do this week. Is the case made out of Aluminum or magnesium etc? Not sure if it can be welded? The hole/split is next to part # 27, bottom of page: Also, I have collision insurance on this bike with a $250 deductable I wonder if I should use it? Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Tim

http://oem.thumpertalk.com/2004YZ450Fcrankcase.aspx. Also, according to the above link the parts diagram doesn't list separate part #'s for the 2 pieces of the case? Does that mean that I'm gonna have to buy both together $400 if it can't be welded? Here's the damage:100_0871.jpg

If you purchase the case you need to get both sides.

J

First of all, it look painful!

I think it should be alloy, I remember somebody saying it is.

It's aluminum.

The cases are a castable aluminum alloy, probably ASTM 356. The cases are machined as a set to make sure the shaft bores align, so you need to replace them as a set. A good welding shop may be able to weld that back together for you...take the motor apart, strip everything out of the case halves, bolt them back together and take them to a welding shop. The worst they can tell you is "No". If they do weld it up, you may want to take the cases to a machine shop to get them to true up the seal bore...you will have to look at it once the welding is done. I would also pay close attention to the shifting mechanism when you pull things apart...look for bent shift forks, damage to the shifter drum, etc.

Was this an of road "event"? Is so, I doubt your collision insurance would cover it, but if they will, the repairs for a new case and putting the motor together would be a lot more than your deductable...

Bummer man ... My buddies yfz450 quad looked like that when it threw the chain a couple years back ... Exactly like that actually ... I'd replace the cases, period ... Much better then even thinking about welding a tough spot like that on an even tougher material ...

ouch.. that hurts..

Welding this is OK and preaty simple. I'm tig and mig welder. Good tig welder'll do this pefrectly. Do not change both cases. Take of the case. Buy new shaft and oil seal. Take the case and new shaft and oil seal to the welder. He should use new shaft and oil sell to align broken parts. He should remove some material if needed and then aply good tig weld. It is not necesary to tig from inside. After welding remove rest of material and paint and forget.

Looks like you got landed on.....ouch:thumbsdn:

Welding this is OK and preaty simple. I'm tig and mig welder. Good tig welder'll do this pefrectly. Do not change both cases. Take of the case. Buy new shaft and oil seal. Take the case and new shaft and oil seal to the welder. He should use new shaft and oil sell to align broken parts. He should remove some material if needed and then aply good tig weld. It is not necesary to tig from inside. After welding remove rest of material and paint and forget.

i dunno, i'm a welder by trade. and I would not want to weld it. i think it would be one of those job's that it will hold for a while, then it would come back to haunt you. do it right the first place. and put the welding labour $ into purchasing new cases.

Having done several repairs of this nature, I have every confidence that this could be repaired and hold up well. But the fact that the shaft bore is small, has a seal pocket at the end, and must be welded through the entire crack in order to stop it from leaking, and thus requires the pocket and bore to be re-machined does complicate the matter somewhat. The machine work in this case will doubtless cost considerably more than the welding by itself. Before deciding on which way to go with it, be sure to get a complete estimate.

I have Geico insurance on the bike (street legal for $167/year) with a $250 ded. on collision/physical damage so I called them yesterday and was told that because it's not an at fault accident and no one else was involved or hurt that it should not increase my premium in the future so I think I'm gonna use them to replace things. I've never used insurance ever before so I hope that she is telling the truth on how the underwriters evaluate things months before renewal time? BTW, I wasn't at the sand dunes when this happened. When I purchased insurance months ago I opted for collision thinking I shouldn't ever need more than a claim for maybe a broken radiator or a crushed muffler or a broken rim some might not even cost $250 I was surprised to find out how much a case cover costs $430, $30 neutral switch, $20 shift shaft and hopefully that's it! Wow, what an expensive repair and a lesson well learned on master links!

I have Geico insurance on the bike (street legal for $167/year) with a $250 ded. on collision/physical damage so I called them yesterday and was told that because it's not an at fault accident and no one else was involved or hurt that it should not increase my premium in the future so I think I'm gonna use them to replace things. I've never used insurance ever before so I hope that she is telling the truth on how the underwriters evaluate things months before renewal time? BTW, I wasn't at the sand dunes when this happened. When I purchased insurance months ago I opted for collision thinking I shouldn't ever need more than a claim for maybe a broken radiator or a crushed muffler or a broken rim some might not even cost $250 I was surprised to find out how much a case cover costs $430, $30 neutral switch, $20 shift shaft and hopefully that's it! Wow, what an expensive repair and a lesson well learned on master links!

If that was my bike i would definitely replace the cases. Sorry it happened!

A claims rep. will meet me at the local Yami shop on Friday and look at the damage and discuss the repair with me and the dealer. I stopped by the shop today and was told that they will charge $300 to tear down everything inspect for damage (make a parts list) and re-assemble it back together- parts are extra. Dealer wants like $600 for a new case plus a new shift lever and a shift shaft plus labor. They are looking at about over $900 min. for this dinger. Blue book is only $3 to 3500 and they will invest up to 80% of value. I hope all goes well with this one!

If your insurance covers engine damage I'm switching for sure. I just took sand up my breather hose and basically ended up needing a new motor. Luckily I got a new out of the crate motor but still will be $2800 plus into repairs.

Well, after a complete conversation with the claims adjuster on what happened to the bike on Wed. his only reply about no coverage was that my chain might now be covered. I was like "OK" what's $80 out of $900? I'll see next Tuesday.

My experience with insurance companies is they are there to take money only. There are times when they can't avoid paying out but they go to great lenths to resist it. Much easier at times like this if the bike was stolen than just damaged (assuming you have coverage for theft). Try finding what you need on ebay or use the winter to tear the whole bike apart and list all the parts separately on ebay? might get a fair bit for the package when its all over (or might just have a garage full of parts).

Ya talking about selling (parting out) the transmission etc? All I need is a new case about $430 here on T.T. if I do it myself.

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