front brakes still soft..

I personally use the $10 pads from Rocky Mountain. They are cheap and perform very well. :thumbsup:

could you hook me up w/ a link? Thanks

Whenever I use the vacuum bleeder, I get air in the bleed line due to air coming down around the threads of the bleeder screw and back up the bleeder hole. I never know if it's all out of the brake system because there's always air in the bleeder hose line. Any advice? Do others see this also?

Teflon tape

:thumbsup: Classic... it's amazing how the ratio of how well search engines have progressed compared to how often people actually attempt to use them to find what they're looking for.

:busted:

Are you using the stock brake lever?

I have not found an after market lever that has the solid low travel feel of the stock lever.

I use ASV's with Yamaha pads, and the brakes are like a rock. Don't know what to tell you.
:thumbsup: Classic... it's amazing how the ratio of how well search engines have progressed compared to how often people actually attempt to use them to find what they're looking for.

:busted:

Wow you guys are all so nice... If I WANTED TO GO TO ROCKY MOUNTAIN ATV HOME PAGE I WOULD DO IT... DONT INSULT ME. I WAS LOOKING FOR A SPECIFIC LINK TO THE BRAKE PADS THIS GUY CLAIMS HE USES. I ALREADY SEACHED THAT SITE AND FOUND NO PADS FOR $10.

THANKS FOR THE LACK OF HELP.

Wow you guys are all so nice... If I WANTED TO GO TO ROCKY MOUNTAIN ATV HOME PAGE I WOULD DO IT... DONT INSULT ME. I WAS LOOKING FOR A SPECIFIC LINK TO THE BRAKE PADS THIS GUY CLAIMS HE USES. I ALREADY SEACHED THAT SITE AND FOUND NO PADS FOR $10.

THANKS FOR THE LACK OF HELP.

Well I guess they are $13.99 now. Last time I bought them, they where only $9.99.

Let me try a direct link to them. http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDetail.do?navType=type&navTitle=Brakes&webTypeId=31&webCatId=15&prodFamilyId=2947#vehicleSelect

If that don't work. Look for the tusk brand under the brake section.

Thank you for that... Thats what I was looking for originally.

Wow you guys are all so nice... If I WANTED TO GO TO ROCKY MOUNTAIN ATV HOME PAGE I WOULD DO IT... DONT INSULT ME. I WAS LOOKING FOR A SPECIFIC LINK TO THE BRAKE PADS THIS GUY CLAIMS HE USES. I ALREADY SEACHED THAT SITE AND FOUND NO PADS FOR $10.

THANKS FOR THE LACK OF HELP.

I think we've all been pretty helpful in this thread but when a person can't go to a site, put in their bike and then click or search for brake pads to bring up the cheapest one's (in this case the RM brand (Tusk)) then it's a little annoying.

J

Thank you for that... Thats what I was looking for originally.

Your welcome. :thumbsup:

Well i havent had the time to go out and mess with the brakes.. But, i do need some new pads so that might be a problem too.. Which type should i go with, for street riding?? (sintered etc..)

The cr pads will fit on my 426??

Well i havent had the time to go out and mess with the brakes.. But, i do need some new pads so that might be a problem too.. Which type should i go with, for street riding?? (sintered etc..)

The cr pads will fit on my 426??

From what I've gathered the oem pads are preffered... The sintered will apparently be hard on your rotor, but I personally have no experience with them...:thumbsup:

I'm going with the oem when I do mine...

Ok well i have bled these things a hundred times.. Also used a syringe to push the fluid up from the caliper, and they are still soft.

BUT my pads are about shot so im guessing this has a major role in it.. Would new pads cure the problem?

Hello, i had best experiences with the original pads. But that will not cure your problem. Buy a brake master rebuild kit first. Good seals in the brake master and a good brake line is very important for the feel at the lever. The pads have more influence on the stopping power than the feeling at the lever. Compare the article numbers of a aftermarket brake pad company between CR and YZ and you will know.

well the thing is, i need better braking power!!! I cant even do a stoppie with the 320mm rotor.. It has a stainless braided galfer line..

How much and where can i get the rebuild kit?

They're available at the dealer, and they're cheap. (under $20)

And change the pads.

Well my buddy at school has a wr converted to sumo, and he said to get a trx450r front master cylinder and i will be set...

I will try the rebuild kit first though see if that works..

I did the back bleeding with a syringe when I did my rear brakes. That was one of the most time consuming and aggravating things I have done. You have to me meticulous about getting all of the air out of the syringe. Here is the instructions I followed. The only thing I did different was taking the caliper off and rotating it in many different directions while I bled it and tapped on it lightly and also tapped on the line. What a pain but it finally worked. I'm sure you all ready found out it is pretty messy to do it this way.

Bleeding the brake line

24. Disconnect the stock master cylinder from the frame so the

whole assembly can be pivoted upside down. This will help

bleed air out of the system at the junction of the two lines when

bleeding.

Using either an optional bleeding Kit or a syringe with an attached

piece of tubing, add Dot 4 brake fluid while bleeding the line of air.

Tip: Loosen both adjustments on the AJP left hand master

cylinder to assure the lever can travel all the way out.

25. Start by filling the syringe with Dot 4 brake fluid.

Rotate the syringe so the tubing is aiming up to allow the air

bubbles to rise to the top. It helps to tap the syringe lightly with

your finger first and then leave the syringe, tubing side up, to

settle for a minute. This should assure that all the air bubbles

have risen to the top. With the tubing still aiming up, squeeze

the plunger of the syringe until all the air is pushed out and a

small amount of brake fluid comes out. See following picture.

syringe.jpg

26. Use a Philips head screwdriver to remove the reservoir cap on

the Rekluse Left Hand Master Cylinder.

27. Use a flat head screwdriver to push the brake pad on the piston

side of the rear caliper away from the brake rotor. The idea is

to bottom the piston(s) back into the caliper allowing the system

to be bled in the following steps. See following picture.

screwdriver.jpg

29. Remove the dust cap on the rear caliper bleeder nipple and slip

the tubing end over the bleeder nipple being very careful not to

allow air to enter into the line. Rotate the syringe so the plunger

end is up and squeeze the tubing to assure any air bubbles

float to the top. You should now have the syringe attached to

the rear caliper bleeder nipple and ready to push Dot 4 brake

fluid only, no air bubbles. See following picture.

syringe3.jpg

Warning: Use paper towels to protect the brake pads and rotor

from the brake fluid.

If brake fluid gets on to the brake pads they will most

likely need to be replaced.

30. Using an 8mm open end wrench, loosen the bleeder nipple one

turn, 360 degrees. Push Dot 4 brake fluid until the reservoir in

the Rekluse Left Hand Master Cylinder is full. It is very

important not to push any air into the system. You must

tighten the bleeder nipple before you stop pushing fluid.

Tip: Having someone tap the brake line as you push the brake

fluid through will help bleed air from the system.

31. Be prepared to catch the Brake Fluid as it over flows from the

Left Hand Master Cylinder Reservoir.

32. The bleeder nipple should now be closed and the dust cover

returned. You will now need to push the rear caliper back over.

You will do this by actuating the left hand master cylinder.

33. Squeeze the lever a few times, being very careful not to pull air

into the system. On the return stroke, after the lever is

squeezed, the fluid in the reservoir will be sucked into the line.

You will need to add fluid to the reservoir after every squeeze

of the lever or air can be sucked into the system. It usually

takes 3-4 squeezes of the lever to force the caliper back into

place. Be very careful not to suck air or you will have to

start the whole bleeding process over.

Repeat Steps 18-23 until all air is bled from the system.

Final Installation Steps

34. Use brake cleaner to clean the rear caliper, rotor and left hand

master cylinder. Allow to dry before using the brake.

Tip: If you have a spongy feel to the lever, pump it until pressure

is built. Using a zip tie, hold the lever in against the grip and leave

it over night. This will keep pressure on the system allowing any

air bubbles to make their way to the reservoir. Tap on the brake

line starting at the rear caliper working your way up to the master

cylinder. Before you release the lever ensure the highest point of

the brake line is at the master cylinder.

Lever Adjustment

35. When adjusting the lever position in, be sure you do not

introduce excessive brake drag with the actuator screw or

premature brake pad wear will result.

After riding, the rear brake will heat up and expand. You may

need to adjust the actuator screw out if the brake begins to

drag. See following picture for lever adjustment points.

brakeadjustement.jpg

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