Airboot and Carb

Just me or does anyone else have a hell of a time getting

the airboot back on the carb when you are putting your subframe back on?

I have lost skin of my knuckles doing this. Not from the actual job but punching the BLOODY BIKE. I have no patience and this has to be the most frustrating job on the bike.

When I install my subframe after cleaning I have been using piece of wood molding to push the air boot back on the carb and this helps keep the frustration down for myself.

It's a bit tight I know but it never took me more then 10 minutes. Just make sure you put some WD 40 on it (the boot) and just put the top subframe bolt in loose so you can move the subframe a lttle. Makes sure you view it from every possible angle too. For me I think the last portion that seems to go on is the top or brake pedal side. Patience is the key and punching your bike will only get the bike mad at you next time your out riding. It just might spit you off!!!! :):D

Hey Huffa

it never took me more then 10 minutes

I can change 2 tyres have 2 beers watch the latest Crusty Video (Skipping Through the S H I T) so this airboot thingy should take less than 10 seconds :):D.

AND the bike spits me off no matter how nice i am too it, so our relationship is at the crossroads.

Just spray a little windex on the inside of the boot and it slides right on. Spit works, but windex doesn't dry as fast.

That's interesting... I just now posted a reply regarding setting the sag, and warned to be very careful getting the air box and carburetor mated back up properly.

I finally settled on using a long, flat-blade screwdriver to lever the connecting tube against the carb, from the bike's left side. And then used that same screwdriver to push from the back.

Get a flashlight to make sure you do have it mated. It's dark and hidden in there.

I finally can do this in 5-10 minutes.

Try fitting the 4 airboots on 4 carbs on a street bike, with no room to work. It took me over 2 hours to get my ninja back together. I also broke a chair that was there, just to save the bike from my frustration.

To put CRF together I bolt up the subframe, but keep it loose so it can move a little. I put a thin layer of grease on the airboot, and slide the bottom on first. Then I use a long flat bladed screwdriver that's been blunted and push the top on. Doing this takes no more than a minute or two for me. A trick is to keep the clamp away from the contact surface so the rubber can expand fully.

Honestly, I don't have too much trouble. Less than 5 minutes each time. I put a little grease on the carb collar so that it will go on and come off a little more easy. I also tend to leave the airbox in the subframe.

Line it up on the top, reach in grab the tab on the lower part of the boot, pull the tab while pushing the airboot from the rear. Be sure that the fastening ring is fully loose (I leave the screw out of mine). A few skinned knuckles, but few problems.

Guess I got lucky on mine yesterday. Top was on after lining up the subframe, and for the bottom, just pulled on that wonderful tab Honda was kind enough to mold in, and that was it. But I'm still going to look again today with a flashlight.

Maybe having struggled with this on a KLX300 and aftermarket carb, anything seems easy. Taking the carb off the klx made me cry and bleed often.

Just lube it up baby! You know those tight holes need lubrication! Make sure the clamp is outta the way and try to start it on at the top first when you align the sub-frame.


All these meathods are very good starting points but to made this a quick job I use a Snap On tools cotter pin puller part number A173, this tool is a screw driver like handle with a couple of bends in it and a narrow tapering pointy end that can be slipped between the air boot and carb to help slip the boot on. I'm sure this tool is available from others as well.

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