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shock preload question

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Can anyone tell me roughly how far to turn the preload ring on the rear shock to achieve a 5mm raise in static sag?? In other words, I'm trying to get the back end about 5mm higher.

Trial & error is ok, but if anyone actually knows how many turns will get me 5mm then I'd love to hear from them.

cheers in advance

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If you are using the Hammer and big screw driver method just keep banging untill it rises.

By this i mean you put a screw driver against the nut and hit it with a hammer and keep turning.

How are you doing it at the moment?

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redoz

this will be my first attempt (not had the bike long). I've been staring at the shock for ages now - presumably the seat needs to come off to use the 'screwdriver' method, or do you go in from the side, by the airbox?

what I really wanted to avoid was 'trial & error' and needing to keep removing the subframe every time I wanted to make an adjustment....

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Yes you just go in from the side, it is better to use a blunt object than a screw driver (I ground one down a bit flatter so it didn't cut into the nut as much) Start on the top nut and loosen that then the pre load nut will turn fairly easy with light taps, then just adjust accordingly.

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Thumpty,

Check the manual, I'm pretty sure it tells you how far a full turn raises or lowers the rear. For 5 mm I'd say between 1/4 and 1/2 turn.

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It's been a while since I set my sag, so I'm speaking from memory. But it seems like it took about one complete turn of the shock spring to get about 5 mm change in sag. Maybe others can also quote their experiences.

Also, after messing around with it a bit, I found that you don't really have to remove the subframe in order to change the shock spring tension. It's a bit awkard but can be done with a looonnng screwdriver- about 10-12 inches guess, and working from both sides of the bike to get the screwdriver against the restraining bolt. Note that on the right side, you'll move the kick start back and go through that opening.

The first time you do this, you might want to remove the subframe anyway. You'll need to practice that, since that's something you'll do from time-to-time anyway for various reasons. I bought a torque wrench to make sure I had the nuts tightened back to where they were supposed to be. I guess that's better than just "a feel".

One last comment... If you remove (or push aside) the subframe, be very careful on reinstalling that the air cleaner connecting tube does get mated up properly with the carburetor. This is not as easy as it seems, since the tube is hidden behind the frame, and it's dark in there. So get a flashlight and that long screwdriver to force the connecting tube back into the proper slot on the carburetor intake. I've seen comments that people felt that their airbox was leaking or the filter was bypassing. But I've also wondered if part of the problem was a poor mating-up between the carburetor and the air filter.

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What I do is:

Knock the lock ring loose with a long screw driver between the frame and shock reservoir. Then, grab the spring from the back (you might want to remove the mud flap) and rotate it by hand (2 hands if you don't have a strong grip). The adjuster ring rotates with the spring. Use the screw driver and knock the lock ring tight again.

This always works for me.

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Just a thought: A cheap homemade tool that shouldn't damage the ring nut as much, if at all, would be an appropriate length of 1/2" diameter aluminum round stock or even square...Brass would be better than steel, too. Maybe a length of scrap 1/2" copper water pipe..?

I just detest buggering-up my ring nuts... :)

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Brass rod with a square ground into one end is what I use. Only to tighten and loosen the top collar. Spin the spring to adjust.

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There it is, another awesome little nugget learned from TT! All these years & I never even thought of spinning the spring to adjust the sag. I just set my sag last weekend and now my bike has some mutilated adjuster rings. Oh well, guess I'll know next time.

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