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JD Kit?


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So, I have already put in a bigger pilot and main jet and my throttle response is fine. I don't have any bog at all. I have also removed the baffle, cut my airbox, and put in a Twin Air filter. I will also be putting on a Leo Vince pipe soon. Should I still buy the JD Jet kit? I have a hard time spending $80 on jets and needles when my bike seems to be running great already. Will I still notice a huge difference by buying the kit and following the instructions?

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So, I have already put in a bigger pilot and main jet and my throttle response is fine. I don't have any bog at all. I have also removed the baffle, cut my airbox, and put in a Twin Air filter. I will also be putting on a Leo Vince pipe soon. Should I still buy the JD Jet kit? I have a hard time spending $80 on jets and needles when my bike seems to be running great already. Will I still notice a huge difference by buying the kit and following the instructions?

If you don't mind, what did you end up with for jets (main and pilot) and needle clip position?

Thanks - JayC

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So, I have already put in a bigger pilot and main jet and my throttle response is fine. I don't have any bog at all. I have also removed the baffle, cut my airbox, and put in a Twin Air filter. I will also be putting on a Leo Vince pipe soon. Should I still buy the JD Jet kit? I have a hard time spending $80 on jets and needles when my bike seems to be running great already. Will I still notice a huge difference by buying the kit and following the instructions?

The JD kit takes the guess workout of jetting. If your happy with the performance of the bike now, leave it alone and just ride it.

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If you don't mind, what did you end up with for jets (main and pilot) and needle clip position?

Thanks - JayC

I am running a 42 for the pilot and I believe a 145 for the main. I can't remember the main one off the top of my head. I currently ride from 1,500 to 6,000 ft. elevation and my bike seems to run fine. Also, I live at about 20 ft. elevation and it runs fine when going down the street.

I am also running the stock needle and clip.

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Looks like you've approximated what the JD kit might recommend for pilot and main jets considering your riding conditions -- not sure if you'd notice much if you did the only other change, which would be needle swap/clip position adjustment. Even with the old factory settings (#138 main), i.e., before I did the JD kit/mods, the bike ran OK (if not perfectly) at 12,000-13,000 feet. IMHO you can get too carried away with rejetting unless you're fine-tuning for racing conditions.

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Even with the old factory settings (#138 main), i.e., before I did the JD kit/mods, the bike ran OK (if not perfectly) at 12,000-13,000 feet. IMHO you can get too carried away with rejetting unless you're fine-tuning for racing conditions.

You live in one of the few places that the factory jetting will actually work. My 250x wouldn't run correctly at sea level until it was rejetted.

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The JD kit takes the guess workout of jetting. If your happy with the performance of the bike now, leave it alone and just ride it.

I was wondering what the kit has.??:banghead: .I have feeling I'm running lean but have no experience jetting a bike so not sure where to start..I need to do a little more research before I post any real questions but if the kit has a good walkthrough I may as well get it..

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I think it's located in the 450X thread, but applies to all carbs with an AP ( accelerator pump). It is installing either wire or rubber "O" ring to keep the pump working at a higher than stock spring rate. When you open the throttle quickly, there is a lag due to hydraulic pressure ( fuel) not being able to overcome the stock spring pressure. When you do the mod, the added pressure will give your bike a kick in the ass off the idle stop, where it will usually bog. If you have this part set up properly it will also be easier to tune (jet) the carb rather than trying to jet and overcome the bog.

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I think it's located in the 450X thread, but applies to all carbs with an AP ( accelerator pump). It is installing either wire or rubber "O" ring to keep the pump working at a higher than stock spring rate. When you open the throttle quickly, there is a lag due to hydraulic pressure ( fuel) not being able to overcome the stock spring pressure. When you do the mod, the added pressure will give your bike a kick in the ass off the idle stop, where it will usually bog. If you have this part set up properly it will also be easier to tune (jet) the carb rather than trying to jet and overcome the bog.

This is why the power bowl was so worth it!! It comes with a MUCH stiffer spring that eliminates the need for an o-ring.

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this sounds may sound dumb but in my opinion I think the ap mod is only nessesary if you are not happy with how your bike is running. If you already have it jetted and it runs great then dont worry about it. I jetted mine and have no complaints about a bog.....before the rejet it did have a slight bog.

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Those of you who have NOT done the mod should not pass information to others who are interested about what they think.

Unless you have done the mod and then took it off because it did not perform like you were told, do not give an opinion as you can't have knowledge of said mod.

In my OPINION, because i have done it on 2 bikes with outstanding results and found a SIGNIFICANT gain, i can state from an informed position,,,,, do the mod!! Just my opinion though. iF THERE IS SOMETHING OUT THERE THAT IS BETTER I WOULD LIKE TO GIVE IT A TRY. If you have done the mod and then switched to something that out performs that, i would like to hear it.

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