CRF150 just in.....

I just picked up my wifes 03 CRF150. Looks very nice and just enough larger for her, over the XR100 she just sold.

Motor seems about the same with a bit more grunt. suspension and brakes are better, feels much more like a real bike.

For those who care. I weighed the bike: 100lbs on the front, 115lbs on the rear (so 215lbs total) with about a gallon in the tank on a scale that tends to read about 5lbs high. Not bad....

Doesn't feel much heavier then a TTR125L

I can't wait until she gets to ride it!

William Ow

Santa Cruz, Ca

Wow Thts heavy!

Thats 75 lbs heavier than my XR100!

ow595-I,m in the same situation as you but were still waiting for the 150 to show up here in Hawaii./we'll sell the 100 when it does.Would be interested in any feedback you folks have as you go along.Thanks for posting your new bike and were really excited about getting and riding tougher trails on the 150-Maco :)

A little more update...

I'm more and more impressed with the CRF150 as I notice the details (for and entry level bike). The rear shock and swingarm are really stout, seem almost as beefy as my KTM 520's. Brakes are the same (disc, caliper, mastercylinder) as a XR650R!, as I'm able to compare it, as I have a bunch of bikes in my garage as were are heading out to Mojave tommorrow until Sunday. Footpegs are larger then the XR650R's but could stand to be sharper. I have been running the bike up and down my street trying to put a good heat cycle in it everyday. Motor seems to have a higher top speed over a Xr100 or TTr125L and more power too. This will be a really fun bike with a bit of tuning to make the motor more snappy. As the brakes are bedding in they feel very nice ( if they can stop a 300lbs XR650R , it should be no problem for this 215lbs bike).

More to come once we actually ride it in the dirt.

William Ow

Santa Cruz, Ca

595-Were drooling over here.Know you will have a blast running the 150 in the dirt.Don't forget to let your wife ride it a little.I've been checking the Helmic sight for a service manual and even phoned.They said I must be making a mistake about the model number.Guess I'll have to wait to get that.Glad to hear Honda beefed up the 150.We heat cycled both our xrs,probably babied them,for the first hour of break in.first about 5-10 minutes and then 20-30 minutes.Not sure if that was necessary but we did it anyway.I'm thinking we'll have to change our back sprocket for the hills.Hope y0u grease that 150 up a little before you break it in to much.Our axle bolts were bone dry on the 100.Have fun :)

Keep us all posted. I'm very interested in hearing some objective points of view. The wife is getting either the CRF150 or the new TTR125LE (E for electric start) Yamaha just announced it.


ow595-Well,did you like it? :)

I just got a CRF150 about a week ago. The thing is soooo sweet. The suspesion can handle everything my old KX80 can. I drove one of my friends TT-R125l with a pipe and the CRF is no match for it. The CRF dominates. Check out for more info about the CRF150/230. :)

The CRF seems pretty nice. But, it seems like a TTR with stiffer springs would be alot better on a motocross track. I know neither are really race bikes but I refuse to ride a 2 smoke, so I did some things to my TTR to make it raceable. Also, the CRF has a lower compression ratio and keep in mind that the TTR is way lighter. Also, I have not heard very good reviews on the new CRF.

I was finally able to brake in the CRF150 and log in a good day of riding on it. I didn't even bother to bring my 02 KTM 520EXC as I wanted to take it easy and brake in the Honda for my wife. This was at the displeaseure of my riding buddy who brought out his 03 YZ250F, and hated the idea that he would have to wait up all the time for the mini bike.

I had derestricted the CRF this morning before the ride, removing the airbox baffle and exhaust plug....It makes a huge difference.

Well, all I can say is that I am so amazed by this bike. The CRF is nothing like the XR100 it replaced and many times better then the TTR125L. I just helped a buddy build and tune his TTR125L with all the tricks and the CRF is still a much better bike.

With the exception of long hill climbs the CRF really scoots! as long as you build enough steam and get the speed up I was able to tackle twisty tails roads faster then I can on my big bike. It has very good power for a 150, handles great and brakes are very strong! I was giving the yz250F fits on the trails and many time running away from it. I was even able to do smaller doubles on the MX track, even further then on my 520. The suspension could be firmer for 190lbs me when jumping but it still did an amazing job.

The new CRF150 with a little taller gearing and some motor work will be an unstopable little bike.

Becareful if a good rider taunts you on a CRF150, because you make see its tail running away from you. (and I don't even like Hondas much).....

I forgot to mention that I was able to do the long hill climb at Hollister next to the big MX track in second gear!

William Ow

Santa Cruz, Ca

I was under the same impression but the new CRF150 is such a capible bike. It functions like a big bike that happens to be slightly smaller. The jumping I was able to do on the CRF I would not consider doing on the XR100 or a TTR125L.

This is not in anyway ment to be a slam on the TTR125L, but if you get the chance ride a deristricted CRF150, it quite amazing.

With firmer springs in the front and eventually a bigbore /Hi-comp piston kit this little bike will really challange the bigger bikes.

William Ow

The CRF seems pretty nice. But, it seems like a TTR with stiffer springs would be alot better on a motocross track. I know neither are really race bikes but I refuse to ride a 2 smoke, so I did some things to my TTR to make it raceable. Also, the CRF has a lower compression ratio and keep in mind that the TTR is way lighter. Also, I have not heard very good reviews on the new CRF.

Race a TTR125L with BBR chain guide, Moose handlebar set up, stiffer shock springs, and Pro Circuit T 4 exhaust system.

TTR125Lracer i think your just saying all that bad stuff about the CRF150 because you have either never tried one or just want to think your TTR is better. I raced my friend on my CRF150 against a TTR125L with a procircuit pipe and i still beat him! Whatcha gotta say bout that?


Sorry to have missed you on IM, I was in the garage, rejetting the CRF of all things.

I moved the needle up two notches and was doing the research for a larger main jet (they use the older style Hex type main jet, so I don't have any in stock). it has a 98 now but I'm thinking of a 110 or 115 main (TTR125L's typically use a 110 with a pipe) and the CRF is a larger motor and seems to make more power so richer main might be neccessary. I will pick up a hand full and try them out.

William Ow

Santa Cruz, Ca

What about the weight? Does it feel like a pig compared to the TTR?

No doubt it will have better potential since it is already a bigger motor, with more suspension travel, etc, but the weight thing is the only thing buggin me. It is nearly 50 pound heavier than the TTR. A bike that small should be over 200 pounds..


On the same scale, the actual difference is only 30lbs (and that was a very trick TTR125L with BBR everything and excel rims) 215 to 185. When you ride them you can't tell the difference in weight at all. But you do notice that the CRF is a much more capible machine. I was able to rail faster on it in some trails that I am on my full sized bike (and sadly jump further the I can on my 520). Not a thing I could have done with my previous XR100 or my buddies TTR125L, as they just felt like mini bikes.

According to the BBR and Powerll dyno graphs, The stock CRF150 puts dow the same HP (12) as a full blown TTR125L with 150cc bigbore, cams, pipes, larger carb, etc. Actualy when you look at the graphs they are near identical. Again then the CRF builds up to speed, it moves out pretty good.

The way it felt to me, was a light dirtbike rather then a heavy mini bike.


William Ow

Santa Cruz, Ca

What about the weight? Does it feel like a pig compared to the TTR?

No doubt it will have better potential since it is already a bigger motor, with more suspension travel, etc, but the weight thing is the only thing buggin me. It is nearly 50 pound heavier than the TTR. A bike that small should be over 200 pounds..


My son already has 3 races on this CRF150 with a win and two seconds. Both seconds were behind two stroke MXers. The Yamaha TTr-125 is going to be taking a back seat to this bike. It's all over but the crying. That's just the nature of progress and technology. There is NO comparison between these two bikes. The CRF is magnitudes better. A friend of my son who races a TTR just this weekend asked to try the CRF on the track. When he came back in his dad asked him which bike he liked better and he just smiled and pointed to the CRF. As the other writer here said. You can actually embarrass the guys on the big bikes in the woods. Yes, this is more like a light weight big bike rather than a heavy "mini" bike. This is not even my bike and I love it.


Ow595- I was just wondering how many times you had to turn the mixture screw to get it to fun good and which way you had to tur it? If you could let me now that would be great. Thank you.

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  • Similar Content

    • By 230F
      Jetting the 230F
      By: Phil Vieira
      This project takes no less than 2 hours if you have never done jetting to a bike before. It took me 1.5 hours, to take my bike apart, take out the needle, change my pilot jet and the main, and take pictures along the way, but I have seen the inside of my carb 3 times, so I know my way around it pretty well…
      You should be jetting this bike right when you get it home. This bike comes lean from the factory. If you don’t know what that means, it means that the bike is getting too much air, in terms, a hotter engine, and your plugs will get hotter, and a decrease in HP. To make your engine last longer, do this.
      These jetting combos are for a 2000 feet and below scenario. Any altitudes higher, you should do a search on the forum. If it cannot be found, post on the forum. Please don’t post on the forum “How do I do this…” You have all the answers here.
      This project comes to a grand total of less than 30 dollars. The needle is 20, the main jet is about 3 dollars, and the pilot is 5 dollars. You may not need to do the pilot jet depending on your situation, but again, if you’re riding 2000 feet and below, it’s a good idea to get a pilot jet.
      The jets I used consist of a 132 main, 45 pilot and the power up needle with the clip on the 4th position.
      Part numbers:
      16012-KPS-921 – Needle (Includes Power up needle, Clip, and needle jet)
      99113-GHB-XXX0 – Main jet (Where XXX is the size)
      99103-MT2-0XX0 – Pilot jet (Where XX is the size)
      For the Jets, just tell them you need jets for a regular Keihn carb, (also known as a Keihn Long Hex) main jet size XXX, pilot jet size XX. They should know the part numbers. For the needle, bring the number along. If you are lazy, they should have a fiche and they can look up the numbers. Then again you can take in the old jets, and make sure they match up to the new ones.

      Now, the tools you will need are as follows:

      ~A collecting cup of some sort. I used a peanut butter jar.
      ~Ratchets for the following sizes:
      - 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm
      - Extension for the sockets needed
      ~Phillips and Flathead screwdriver (Be sure these are in perfect condition. A badly worn screwdriver will strip the screws)
      ~Needle nose pliers
      ~”Vise grips” or known as locking pliers (Two)
      ~Open end wrench 7mm and 12mm
      ~ It’s a good idea to have a extra hand around
      (Not needed, but I highly recommend tiny Phillips and flathead screwdrivers (Pictured next to the jar and the ¼” extension) I recommend these for removing a couple things since you can put pressure with your thumb on the end and unscrew it with the other hand. This insures that you will not over tighten any parts, and ensure that you will not strip the heads of the bolts.
      Ok, now that you have the tools, let’s start by putting the bike on a bike stand. I put it on the stand rather than the kickstand because it’s more stable and sits higher. I hate working on my knees. Start by taking the number plates off. Yes, both of them. The right side, you take off one bolt and the top comes off of its rubber grommets, pull the top off, and the plate comes right off. The left hand side, use the 10mm socket to take the battery bolts off, and then take the Phillips bolt near the back. Again, rubber grommets are used to hold the top in place. Take the seat off. There are two mounting bolts on the back:

      Those two bolts are both a 12mm socket. Use the open end wrench on the inside, and use the socket on the outside. You may need to use an extension if you don’t have a deep socket. Once you have the two bolts off, slide the seat back, and lift it up. This is what you have. Notice there is a hook in the middle and a knob on the tank. That is what you are sliding the seat off of.

      Now that the seat is off, you must take the gas tank off. Don’t worry, you won’t spill any gas any where, I promise. On the left hand side of the bike where the valve is, slide down the metal clip holding the tube in place. Turn off the gas supply, and slip the tube off slowly. Now take off the two bolts in the front of the take. This is on the lowest part of the gas tank in the front, behind the tank shrouds. The socket you will use is an 8mm socket. Take the bolts all the way off and set them aside. Now look back at the last picture posted. On the back of the tank, there is a rubber piece connected to the knob and the frame. Slip that rubber piece off of the frame. Pull the vent tube out of the steering stem and lift the tank up. Don’t tip it, and lay the tank aside where you won’t trip on it. This is what you’ll end up with:

      It may be a good idea to take a rag, and wipe all the dirt off the top of the bike if any. You don’t want anything dropping down into the carb. If you do, engine damage is the result. A clean bike is always a good thing! Now we must drain the gas out into that container. This is very easy. Make sure you open the garage door, windows, whatever, to let the fumes out. Breathing this crap is bad. Here is where the drain screw is:

      (Don’t worry about removing the carb, that comes later) This is on the right side of the carb, on the float bowl. The vent tube that goes down to the bottom of the bike is where the gas drains to. Put the jar under that tube and start to unscrew that screw, enough so that the gas leaks into that jar. Once the gas doesn’t drip anymore, close the screw all the way. Now on to the top of the carb. We are going to take this cover off:

      This cover comes off by removing the two screws. Once removed, the lid comes off as well as the gasket. Flip it over and set it aside. Do not set the gasket side down on the ground, as it will get contaminants! Here is what you are facing:

      The angle of the camera cannot show the two screws. But one is visible. It has a red dot, and opposite of that side is a darker red dot. I made it darker because it’s not visible, but that is where it is. This is where I use the miniature screw drivers to get the screws. I magnetize the screwdrivers, and use care to make sure I don’t strip the heads. Metal pieces in a piston are not good! Remove the two screws. Put these screws on a clean surface so they do not get contaminants. Now get your vise grips and set it so that it will lock onto the throttle, not too tight, not too loose. Set the vise grips on the seat. Start to open the throttle slowly as you guide that “plunger holder” (as I call it) up to the top. Once you have the throttle all the way open, take the vise grips, and lock it so that the throttle does not go back any more. What I do is I hold it pinned and lock it up against the brake so it doesn’t rewind on me. If you don’t have locking grips, a friend will do, just have them hold the throttle open all the way until you are finished. How fold the plunger holder to the back of the carb and pull the piece up to the top. Take care not to remove it, as it is a pain to get back together! If it came apart on you, this is what it should be assembled to:

      Once you get the holder out of the slider, set it back like this:

      As you can see, the bar is back 45 degrees, while the holder is forward 45 degrees to make a S. Here is what you are faced with when you look down on the carb:

      Where the red dot is where the needle lies. Grab needle nose pliers and carefully pull up the needle out of its slot. This is what the needle looks like once it is out.

      Now we must move the carb to take the bowl off. Untie the two straps on the front and back of the carb. Don’t take them off; just loosen them until the threads are at the end. Take the front of the carb off the boot and twist the bowl as much as you can towards you. Tie the back tie down to that it does not rewind back on you. This is what you have:

      Now we must take off the bowl. Some people take that hex nut off to change the main jet, which you can, but you cannot access the pilot jet, and you can’t take out the needle jet (a piece the needle slides into), so we need to take it off. It’s just three bolts. As we look at the underside of the carb, this is what you will see:

      The bolts with the red square dots are the bolts you will be removing. These are Phillips head bolts, and the bolt with the blue dot is your fuel screw. This is what you will adjust when the time comes, but keep in mind where that bolt is. You need a small flat blade to adjust it.
      Well, take those screws off, and you are faced with this:

      The blue dot is for cross reference, which is the fuel screw once again. The green dot is the pilot jet. You can remove this using a flat blade screwdriver. Just unscrew it and pull it out. Once you pull it out, set it aside and put in the 45 pilot jet you got. The red dot is the main. You remove this by using a 6mm socket. Just unscrew it. If the whole thing turns, not just the jet, but the 7mm sized socket under it, don’t worry, that piece has to come out as well. If it doesn’t, use a 7mm to unscrew it off. Here is what the jets look like:

      Pilot Jet

      Main jet attached to the tube. Take the main jet off by using an open end wrench and a socket on the jet. Again, it screws right off.
      Here is what you are faced with if you look form the bottom up.

      From left to right: Main jet, Pilot Jet, Fuel screw. Now in the main jet’s hole, if you look closely, you see a bronze piece in the middle of that hole. We are going to take this off. Since I did not do this part (I only changed my pilot jet when I took these pictures) there are no pictures taken for this section but this is really simple to do if you’ve been a good student and know where things go. You should know anyways, you have to put the bike back together!
      (Notice: There have been discussions about these needle jets being the same. Only change this needle jet if the one you have is worn out. If you do not have the old needle, a older drill bit bigger than 3/20ths (.150), and smaller than 11/100 (.11") Use the tapered side of the bit, set it down in the hole and tap it out carefully.)
      Now take your OLD needle, I repeat, the OLD needle because what you are going to do next will ruin it. Pull the clip off with your needle nose pliers, or a tiny screwdriver to pry it off. Then put the needle back in the hole where it goes. That’s right, just to clarify, you took off the needle, and you put the needle back in the hole with no clip. Slide the point side first, just as it would go normally. Now if you look at the bottom of the carb, the needle is protruding past the main jets hole. Grab another pair of locking pliers (vise grips as I call them) and lock it as tight as you can on the needle. Pull with all your might on the needle. Use two hands. Have a friend hold the carb so you don’t pull it off the boot. Tell them to stick their fingers in the hole that goes to the engine, and pull up. After pulling hard, the needle jet should slip right off. Then notice which side goes towards the top of the carb. There is one side that is a smaller diameter than the other. Take the new needle jet, and push it up into the hole the way the old one was set. Just get it straight. Take the tube the main jet goes into, and start threading it in. Once you can’t tie it down anymore with a ratchet, unscrew it and look at the needle jet to make sure it’s set. That’s it for the needle jet. Now let’s start putting the carb back together.
      (Notice: Many people have destroyed jets and such by overtighting them! Use the thumb on the head of the wrench and two fingers on the wrench to tighten it down.)
      Thread the main jet into the tube it goes into, and then start putting it back on the carb. Thread the pilot jet in as well if you haven’t done so already. Remember these carburetor metals are soft as cheese, so don’t over tighten the jets very much. What I do is I put my thumb on the top of my ratchet, and use two fingers closest to the head of the ratchet to tighten the jet. That’s how tight I go when I tie them back in.
      Now before we put the carb back together, let’s adjust the fuel screw. Take a small screwdriver, and start screwing in the fuel screw until it sets. Again, do not over tighten, just let it set. Then count back your turns. Count back 1.75 turns.
      Now we must put the bowl back on. The white piece that came off with the bowl goes back as followed:

      If you look directly under the carb, the round hole is aligned with the pilot jet. Take the float bowl, and put it back on.
      Untie the rear clamp and the front clamp as well. Slip the carb back the way it used to. Make sure that it is straight up and down with the rest of the bike. The notch on the front boot should be aligned with the notch on the carburetor, and the notch on the carburetor should be in that slot. Tie the clamps down securely.
      Let’s put the needle in. These are how the needle numbers go:

      The top clip position is #1, the lowest one, closest to the bottom, is #5. (The picture says six but it is five in this case) For reference #1 is the leanest position, while 5 is the richest. I put the clip in the 4th position. Read at the bottom of the page and you can know what conditions I ride in, and you can adjust them to your preference.
      Put the clip in the new needle, slip it in. Take the vise grips off your grips and start guiding the plunger holder down to the bottom. Remember not to let that assembly come apart because it is a pain in the ass to get it back together! Once you get it to the bottom, put the two screws on, and then put the cover on.
      Now that you have done the carburetor mods, there is still one thing you want to do to complete the process. Don’t worry, this takes less than a minute! On the top of the air box there is a snorkel:

      As you can see, you can slip your fingers in and pull it out. Do that. This lets more air in to the air box. Don’t worry about water getting in. There is a lip that is about 1/8” high that doesn’t let water in. When you wash, don’t spray a lot under the seat, but don’t worry about it too much.
      The next thing you must do is remove the exhaust baffle. The screw is a torx type, or you can carefully use an allen wrench and take care not to strip it:

      The screw is at the 5 o’clock position and all you do is unscrew it, reach in, and yank it out. This setup still passes the dB test. The bike runs 92 dB per AMA standards, which is acceptable. Just carry this baffle in your gear bag if the ranger is a jerk off. I’ve never had a problem, but don’t take chances.
      That’s it! Start putting your tank on, seat, and covers. After you put the seat on, pull up on the front, and the middle of the seat to make sure the hooks set in place.
      Turn on the bike, and take a can of WD-40. Spray the WD-40 around the boot where it meets the carburetor. If the RPM rises, you know you have a leak, and the leak must be stopped. You must do this to make sure there are no leaks!
      Here is my configuration:
      04’ 230F
      Uni Air filter
      132 Main Jet
      45 Pilot Jet
      Power up needle, 4th clip position
      Fuel screw 1.75 turns out
      Riding elevation: 2000ft - Sea level
      Temperature – Around 60-90 degrees
      Spark Plug Tips
      When you jet your carb, a spark plug is a best friend. Make sure your spark plug is gapped correctly, (.035) but that’s not all that matters. You want to make sure the electrode is over the center, and you want the electrode to be parallel, not like a wave of a sea. Put in the plug, and run the bike for 15 mins, ride it around too then turn it off. Then take off the spark plug after letting the bike cool. The ceramic insulator should be tan, like a paper bag. If it is black, it is running rich, if it is white, it is running lean. The fuel screw should be turned out if it is running lean, and turned in if it is running rich. Go ¼ turns at a time until your plug is a nice tan color.
      Making sure your bike is jetted correctly
      While you are running the bike for those 15 mins to check the plug color, you want to make sure it’s jetted correctly now. Here is what the jets/needle/screw control:
      0- 3/8 throttle – Pilot jet
      ¼ to ¾ throttle – Needle
      5/8 – full throttle – Main jet
      0-Full – Fuel screw
      Pin the gas, does it bog much? Just put around, is it responsive? When you’re coming down a hill, the rpm’s are high and you have no hand on the throttle, does it pop? If it pops, it is lean and the pilot jet should be bigger. If it’s responsive your needle is set perfectly. You shouldn’t have to go any leaner than the 3rd position, but I put mine in the 4th position to get the most response. Your bike shouldn’t bog much when you have it pinned. If it does it is too rich of a main jet.
      Determining the plug color, you will have to mess with the fuel screw.
      That’s it, have fun jetting, and any questions, post on the forum, but remember to do a search first.
      Also, if your bike requires different jets due to alititude, humidity, or temperature, please post the following so we can better assist you:
      Average temperature
      Altitude (If you do not know this, there is a link in the Jetting forum that you can look up your alititude)
      Average Humidity
      What jets you are currently running
      What the problem is (If there is one)
      Just do that and we'll help you out the best we can.
      EDIT: The girl using this login name is my girlfriend. You can reach me on my new login name at 250Thumpher
      Then again, you're more than welcome to say hi to her!
      -Phill Vieira
    • By jason230
      Well I figured this would be a cool thread to have seeing as how quite a few of us have gotten pretty far into upgrading our 150/230s. This will be helpfull for those looking into getting things for their bike so they can see what everything looks like.
      '05 CRF230:
      -Acerbis Rally brush guards
      -Factory FX #'s
      -Renthal 7/8ths MC bend w/ soft half waffle grips
      -BBR +1/2" shift lever
      -BBR revbox
      -White Bros. R-4 Full Exhaust
      -Twin-Air and White Bros. airfilters
      -White Bros. 112main and 48pilot jets
      -Dunlop D756's w/ MSR Ultra Heavy Duty tubes

    • By werra
      In order to help 230F riders set up and fine tune their Emulator equipped forks, it was suggested that we start a new thread to complie set up data.
      Okay people, start posting your set up details with the template below:
      Bike: CRF230F/Year
      Forks: Stock
      Fork Springs: Stock/Spring Rate
      Damper rod holes drilled: diameter, number
      Emulators: spring color, spring weight, turns of preload
      Fork Oil: Brand, weight/viscocity
      Oil Level: inch/mm from top (measured with springs removed, emulators installed)
      Rider weight: with/without riding gear
      Riding Conditions: Woods/trail/track
      Your input is much appreciated!!!!