End Cap Vs. Slip on

I had asked this question early just before they changed the format, however I was hoping to get some more feed back. I recently purchased a 03 CRF and I am unsure if I should purchase a slip on or just get the PMB end cap. I mostly ride in the woods on tight trails and need to get some sort of spark arrester. Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks

i would just get an end cap.i already bought a a slip on and broke it.to be honest with you icant tell the difference between FMF and my stock one cut down 4".

coreya290, how much louder would you say the bike is with the stock muffler cut down 4"? damn that is a lot to be chopping off. I'm sure shortening the pipe decreases bottom end?

<font color="brown">I have mine cut down also on an 02. 4+1/2" with PMB end cap and silent insert. Even with out the insert and PMB it really didn't get much louder. And you don't lose much low end as far as I can tell. It all seemed to stay the same to me as far as low, mid and top. If there is a difference I think you would have to ride two bikes side by side to tell it. I'd highly recommend this set up and it looks waaaaay better then the stock set up!!!

Most slip on's in my opinion are way too loud for the woods.

Save your money and go for PMB with quiet insert!

I've a 02 used for woods riding as well. With the PMB I've experinced a little bit more low end (helpfull in tight sections), way less loud than stock and not loosing much on high end (by the way there is so much that.....) :)

I agree on the PMB endcap and spark arrestor. I did notice a bit of increase in the bottom end and but haven't noticed any loss on the top end at all. The trees come up way to fast anyway ;-)

Unless you are really in need of more power, save the dollars and get the endcap.

Just my 2 cents.

Coreya or Huffa, When you say cut down the factory pipe are you talking about just taking 4 inches off the back of the mufffler. And if so, what did you use to cut it? It definitely sounds like the PMB end cap is the way you go. Thanks

As Huffy stated, he cut 4" off a 02. Your 03 already came OEM stock cut down about 4". If you cut it 4" shorter then you will be 8" shorter than a 02. Leave it alone.

it's really 4" shorter than an '02? still seems to stick out pretty far.

Motohead is wrong. The stock 03 is 2 inches shorter then a stock 02. The stock 02 looked terrible to me stock and the 03 is better but if it was mine I'd still cut some off so just a little is beyond the # plate like my 02. That's my preference anyway. The 02 with 4+1/2 off puts it 1/2 inch beyond the # plate. <font color="black">For more info on cutting it down Antman and Honda Guy did a nice write up on how to do it. Just do a search or go on their profile and check out all their posts. It was quite a long time ago. Maybe 10 months?? Geeez, I almost forgot. Yes Kitchen crf450, it is cut off from the back of the muffler. Saved almost 2 lbs I think. One other plus, no make that three, is it's that much smaller to dent and reduces the chance of bending it and the subframe.

Well I went and looked it up and yes I was off by 50mm or 2". The 03 is 2" shorter which makes Huffy right. I read in MXA that it was 100mm shorter but they evdently were wrong.

Huffa, does it make a big difference in noise (cutting it down)? i'm not too worried about it. just wondering what 2" will do for the noise factor. i'm sending off for the pmb endcap with the quietcore. also, do you think with the core in it will be quieter than the the stock length is now? thanks.

<font color="brown">Wy4tt

Cutting it down 2" will hardly have an effect on noise at all. Like I said mine was cut 4 and 1/2 and I hardly noticed any difference! Hard to believe but it was only a little louder with that much off. It's not any where close to what those after market pipes are. I would think with the quiet insert and your pipe being cut down 2" it should be a hair quieter. The insert is supposed to lower it 5db's but my ears didn't think so. If you do cut your exhaust down take into consideration the Pro moto end cap adds an inch back on to the exhaust BUT does not add to the overall length because the tail pipe is shorter. If you go on their web <font color="black">promotobillet.com you can see the thickness of it in the picture. MAKE SURE you loctite the silent insert because mine came loose one time WITH loctite on it and I almost lost it. If I had one complaint it would be I wish it had 2 screws but because of the design of the tail pipe or the way the insert is designed 2 would not work. They are both though top notch quality! Since I used a stronger loctite it has not come loose so maybe this will never be an issue.

did you use the red loctite? or would you need the high temp stuff?

<font color="brown">Hmmmmm, good question. I think I used the lowest grade first then tried some Honda stuff I had sitting around which is a medium grade. So far so good with that stuff. Actually you have a good point there with the high temp stuff. Maybe the heat breaks the normal stuff down so I'd say if you got some use it.

i don't have any of the heat resistant stuff, but i'm going to pick some up for good measure. also, since my last post i dumped the crf over (first dump) and it surprised me cause she went down easy. there was a 2 inch dent in the silencer. it's toward the rear, so now i guess i'll definitely try shortening the length. may even end up cutting more than 2". besides, i'm with you huffa, i'd like it to be no further than the number plate. wonder why they don't shorten these things a little more from the factory; especially if it doesn't significantly change the db lvl.

Huffa, Did you use a hack saw to cut the muffler? And once it is cut, do you just slide in the spark arrester and drill new holes?

Damn, I just got brave and hacked 3.5" of my 03 muffler. Haven't had a chance to start her up and try it out yet, bit late at night for that. Fingers crossed i don't lose to much bottom end with the lack of back pressure.

<font color="brown">I did use a hack saw and it turned out great. But beware - You can't just cut from top through to bottom or you might end up going crooked, then it won't look too good. :) Also the baffle extends 10 mm (hair less then 1/2") into the end plate so you can't just cut right through the whole thing UNLESS you take the front rivets out also and slide the baffle towards the front by 10 mm. This is the way I did it. And getting back to how I cut it I started on the sides and only cut through the alum making sure to go straight then cut through the top all the way (alum, packing and screening) to about half the baffle and turned it around and did the same again. That's the Honda guy way. Antman just took the endcap off and simply cut through the alum, packing and screening then slid it all off and cut through the baffle then. I think most did it the Ant way I just preferred the Honda guy because I thoght I could cut right through in one shot but decided to do sides then top and bottom for fear of going crooked with the saw. Originally I was going to take it to a freind's and use his band saw (that's the hot set up :D) but then changed my mine. Lot's have also used those little high speed rotary saw's, you know with the disc. I can't think of what you call them but that's an option that is even quicker I'm sure. Used rivets again with silicone around the end cap so was sure to get a good seal. Like I said Antman and Honda guy explain it in perfect detail. If you can't find their post on it let me know. Between the three of us you should have no problemo! Took me about 2 hours I think.

I did one the hard way by drilling out all the rivets, front and rear, and taking the whole pipe apart, because I had an idea to replace the whole internals with a set up similar to the Flowmasters mufflers used on cars! This is very difficult and time consuming! I would suggest doing it the HUFFA way! My only addition would be to use a piece of cardstock paper to wrap around the pipe to mark a straight line all the way around the pipe where you want to cut. The cut could be made a number of ways, dremal, hacksaw, tinsnips. The dremal method could even be done ON the bike I think! The thing to remember is the inner pipe extends into the endcap about a 1/4", so the outside will have to be cut separately from the inner pipe, NO BIG Deal. I used some trick looking stainless button head hex screws and tapped my end-cap for easy access in the future!

One very important part I almost forgot to mention is, the holes for the endcap you need to drill are very hard to locate unless you make a pattern with cardboard first! Make a straight edge index line on the pipe and the pattern, and put your holes in the pattern itself so you can mark for the new holes, this will save you a major headache!



Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By Kevin from Wiseco
      Jeremy Martin Leads the Charge for Wiseco Riders at Daytona Supercross
      Christian Craig Turns in Career Best in 450 Competition
      MENTOR, Ohio (March 13, 2018) – Jeremy Martin showed the way for Wiseco-sponsored riders in Saturday night’s Monster Energy Daytona Supercross presented by Honda. In a season marred by bad luck and misfortune, Martin put together a near flawless ride to earn his first Eastern Regional 250SX Class podium finish of the season.
      Martin qualified eighth for the division’s annual visit to the World Center of Racing, finished fourth in his heat race, and came home second in the 250SX main event, missing his first win of the year by less than a second.

      “It’s Daytona, a real man’s track.” said Martin who sits fourth in points. “It was the toughest race of the year as far as fitness. I had to slow down a little bit, halfway through the main. I was getting close to (race winner) Jordon (Smith) and I was starting to think about where I could make a move on him, then I made some mistakes and he got away from me. Couldn’t quite get close again, but it’s good. We’re on the podium and in contention for wins again. That’s something I haven’t been able to say in supercross in a while. We want to get wins and now we know it’s coming.”
      Martin’s podium was a bright spot, but the rest of the event was rough for the GEICO Honda/Factory Connection squad. RJ Hampshire crashed hard in his heat race and had to be transported to a local hospital. He injured his back and ribs, but shoulder pain left him with the most concern.
      “I felt good on the bike all day,” said Hampshire via his Instagram account. “Had some pretty good speed and my foot just slid off hitting my shifter in those rollers during that heat race. After seeing the pictures from the crash I’m very thankful I didn’t take a shot to my head. I have some fractures in my T3/T4 in my back and ribs. Also have some damage to my lungs which is why I’ll be spending a couple nights in the hospital. I’ll be getting some more checkups this week on the shoulder also.”
      Cameron McAdoo, the third member of the team, was unable to compete at Daytona after being sidelined with a hand injury two races ago in Atlanta.
      Across the paddock, in the premier 450SX Class, Christian Craig got the call to fill in for Team Honda HRC. With the team’s regular riders Ken Roczen and Cole Seely out with injuries, it was up to Craig to carry the load for the factory team, and the upstart rider didn’t disappoint.
      The San Diego native was solid in both qualifying sessions, won his heat race and snagged the holeshot in the division’s main event. After relinquishing the lead to eventual winner Justin Brayton, Craig continued to show he was up for the challenge. The 26-year-old rider raced for second and third for most of the 20-minute-plus-one-lap feature before losing one more spot in the late goings to bring his No. 32 Honda CRF450R home fourth in the final rundown.

      “I had a great week testing with the team,” commented Craig. “They came down to Florida right after Atlanta and I feel like we really improved. Just getting more time on the bike and getting more comfortable was huge. I started off race day feeling really good. My qualifying position didn’t really show it, but overall I was happy with my riding. It’s all about having fun out there, and man, that’s what I did tonight. I was up front in the heat race, fell to third, but then the two guys in front took each other out so I ended up winning. You can call it luck or whatever, but I just put myself in a good position to capitalize on people’s mistakes."
      “I had a good gate pick and some confidence going into the main. I grabbed the holeshot and led for almost the first lap, but [Justin] Brayton got by me pretty quick. I stayed second for quite a while. I just rode my hardest and did my best. Unfortunately, a couple guys got by me so I ended up fourth. The track was so tough. This is only my second time racing Daytona and last year didn’t go well, so I really wanted to get some revenge this year. It’s better than the week before, but man, I was so close to a podium. I just need to keep putting myself in good positions and work on getting better each weekend.”
      Monster Energy AMA Supercross rolls on this weekend when the series visits the “Gateway to the West” for its annual race at the Dome at America’s Center in St. Louis. The 11th of 17 races on the 2018 supercross calendar will be televised live on FS1 Saturday, March 17, beginning at 8 p.m. Eastern Daylight Time, 5 p.m. Pacific.

    • By desert520sx
      I have a 03 450 that I just got and it runs great! I love my bike and am big on preventative maintenance. I have searched the threads on TT and have not found any descriptive threads on how to check valve clearance or adjust them. Just by looking at them, I can see that the intakes need to be shimmed and the exhaust valves can be adjusted quite easily unless one needs to be adjusted differently than the other.
      I tried to do it last night, and lined up the marks on each side to get the piston to TDC to check adjustments and could not get any readings on tolerances on either the intake nor the exhaust. I moved the crank a little bit forward and got a .011 reading on the exhaust valves. I read in a thread that the spec was .011" for the left one and .014" in the right for the auto decompressor. The spec I am using for the intakes is .006" Are these specs correct? :excuseme:The only issue is that the adjustment for the exhaust valves is one and the same. Different from my KTM where you can adjust each valve individually.
      No matter where the cam was on the intake valves, I could not get any readings. Does anyone have a thread, website, downloadable manual, or article on checking and adjusting valves in these beasts?
    • By Eric Schrader
      I am selling my 2007 Honda CRF 450-R which is set up for desert racing (Track/desert). It has an 18" rear tire with a heavy duty setup (see description for details). The bike screams and has a Tokyo mods carb mod with the 10x ignition mapping (currently set to a handlebar switch for smooth power and max power). Gas tank is a 3.2 gallon IMS dry break tank. V4 steering stabilizer included. Precision Concepts suspention, Bike is set up for 6'4" 175lb rider. Zero oil leaks and well maintained using a preventative maintenance method with the best new parts each time. Receipts for all items can be provided. About 20 hours on the rebuilt head. Carb just rebuilt. Starts cold in just 2-3 kicks. 100% reliable bike as long as you turn the gas on.  Current CA Red sticker and original title.
      Expand above to see details
    • By bigg_stevee
      I recently replaced water pump and seal after I noticed that my '02 CRF450R was spilling coolant on easy trail rides. After the water pump swap (which was successful), I noticed the same problem. It's interesting - the bike only spits coolant (I mean a LOT of coolant) after passing anything above 1/2 throttle. The bike makes this weird 'gurgling' noise, like trying to suck through a straw when your glass is almost empty. This is weird because I properly bled/ burped the radiators with coolant, and filled them to normal operating levels. The coolant spills through overflow hose. 
      anyways - I swapped the radiator because I thought maybe the bike was running hot. I purchased oversized radiators, bought a 1.6 radiator cap (with a temp gauge) and bought engine ice. The bike runs very very cool - the temp gauge allows me to see this. Still, the bike shoots coolant out of the overflow after going above half throttle, making the same weird gurgling noise when it does. Bike has all of its power, top end was replaced not too long ago. 
      I'm lost and don't know what is wrong with the cooling system in my bike. How do I make the bike stop shooting out coolant, and stop making the weird gurgle noise??? Any advice would help me!!! Thank you!
    • By Mxer59
      I have a brand new Barnett Extra plate setup still in the box. It replaces the judder spring with a regular fiber. My old clutch had a judder spring break which wiped out the stock clutch. I was in a bind ordered this kit but it ended up coming 2 days later then it was suppose too. So now I don’t need it asking $180 SHIPPED 
      —“Complete Extra Plate Kit- consists of 8 Kevlar friction plates, 7 tempered steel plates and a set of springs. Provides maximum clutch capacity.”—