Rekluse Concern

[Yamaha4lyfe]

Remember guys, Rekluse does not recommend any synthetics to be used with their auto clutch.

I use to use Motorex 10W50 and was getting some clutch chatter from both bikes. I switched to Rotella, and the problem went away.

The guys at Rekluse are engineers and I trust what they say. Changing your oil every ride isn't that big of a deal, it only takes 10 minutes.

would you rather buy new clutch plates or a new engine?

semi and full syn only with my rekluse

i have a really low rpm engagement but i have over 80 hours on stock clutch with the rekluse with bellray semi syn. and motul full syn ester

[642MX]

would you rather buy new clutch plates or a new engine?

Thats hilarious. When is the last time you heard or read about an oil related failure?

I prefer to keep my clutch plates and my motor together. Its real easy for me, I use Rotella and I change it every ride.

Now, I have to go, I'm going riding for 2 days. (and yes, I'm bring oil with me) See ya'll on Sunday night.

[HodaddyB]

Rekluse use to suggest Delo, now they suggest Rotella. I switched to from the Delo to the Rottela and have not noticed any difference except it stinks when hot.

FWIW, I have a YZ250 (2t) that is a motard w/ a Rekluse, and I've been running the suggested (I bought it a while ago) Delo 400 in it. It has withstood everything from full trackdays at large roadcourses, to climbing buttes, and other desert shenanigans. No problems whatsoever.

When I bought the clutch and asked the guy why they suggested Delo in particular, he told me that it had to do w/ that oil's ability to keep the ramps, balls, etc. cleaner, ensuring more consistent performance. I was going to try the Rotella, since I bought some for my KTM, but the stinkiness concerns me.

I'm not going to speak for Rekluse here, but I might surmise that they may have simply done a lot of testing with Rotella since it appears to be a popular oil w/ the 4 stroke community. This way their customers wouldn't need to switch to another oil to use their product. Just a guess though. But again, aside from the normal wet-clutch concerns, keeping the pressure plate assy from gunking up was the primary concern expressed.

$0.02

[grayracer513]

Thats hilarious. When is the last time you heard or read about an oil related failure?

Wear. Seizures. Etc. It's all oil related.

[Yamaha4lyfe]

Thats hilarious. When is the last time you heard or read about an oil related failure?

I prefer to keep my clutch plates and my motor together. Its real easy for me, I use Rotella and I change it every ride.

Now, I have to go, I'm going riding for 2 days. (and yes, I'm bring oil with me) See ya'll on Sunday night.

i dont know about you but when we go camping. i like to go for a ride with my buddies. then sit back go fishing for the rest of the night. sleep and go riding again. i prefer the good oil and not changing it when im away from home but thats just my opinion.. nor do i like changing it every day. unless of course it needs it.

+1 to Grey.

[642MX]

Wear. Seizures. Etc. It's all oil related.

I will agree that wear & seizures can take place if you don't change the oil enough. And that would include all oils. Wear and seizures also take place on high hour machines too, which would be more related to the hours, not oil....right? I mean a crank will only last X number of hours (maybe synthetics will prolong its life, but it can't be by much, if any)

[642MX]

i dont know about you but when we go camping.

My wife and I don't camp real well. I prefer to stay at a hotel with a decent restruant near by. Sleeping outdoors with a bunch of guys doesn't really appeal to me, so anyways...

Thats fine if you don't want to change your oil while your with your friends. I change mine in front of my buddies (and yes, they poke fun at me for being so anal with maintenance), but its the way I prefer to do things.

[642MX]

I was going to try the Rotella, since I bought some for my KTM, but the stinkiness concerns me.

I keep hearing about the oil stinking, but I've never smelled it. I'm not sure what conditions the oil starts to smell at, but I'm guessing its pretty slow riding or when the bike gets too hot.

[grayracer513]

Wear and seizures also take place on high hour machines too, which would be more related to the hours, not oil....right? I mean a crank will only last X number of hours (maybe synthetics will prolong its life, but it can't be by much, if any)

Wear is oil related regardless of the length of service, and good lubrication can almost eliminate it. It can certainly extend the service life prior to the wear limit of any given part being reached. (Before someone mentions cylinder wear, let's remember that that is caused mostly by the rings, the top two of which are lubed by the fuel, not the oil)

As to cranks, that depends. If it fails due to wear, then it's as I just said. What oil can't do is prevent the metal fatigue that results in spalling (flaking) bearing surfaces, or things like failed bearing cages at the big end.

[642MX]

What oil can't do is prevent the metal fatigue that results in spalling (flaking) bearing surfaces, or things like failed bearing cages at the big end.

Thats what I meant. A bearing will only turn X number of times before it wears out.

[grayracer513]

True, but X is a variable, after all.

[642MX]

True, but X is a variable, after all.

That is the scarey part. Also why I put cranks in both of our bikes.....

[HodaddyB]

I keep hearing about the oil stinking, but I've never smelled it. I'm not sure what conditions the oil starts to smell at, but I'm guessing its pretty slow riding or when the bike gets too hot.

Yep, could be. I believe it's what I have in my KTM right now, and I've done a couple of desert rides and a day on the pavement w/ no stink ('cept for me:ride: )

[LVThumper]

Gray (or anyone else that may know) - At the rist of sounding like a knucklehead what would be your oil recommendation for a long distance race for say Vegas to Reno? I fear I may put my original clutch back together rather than change the oil 3 times during the race. The general consensus is that my '01 426, with it's larger oil capacity, that is already set up for desert racing, and soon to be night riding would be a better candidate than my partner's '06 YZ450.

We're not trying to win, unless you are like us and consider finishing "winning".

[grayracer513]

There are two approaches I might take in a situation like that. One is to use Amsoil MCV (20w-50), where I usually use their 10w-40, as an additional level of insurance against viscosity loss. It would still work at 30 wt, and it would have to go a very long way to drop that far.

The other approach is to get a good commercial grade (API C* oils) Single grade 40wt. These oils will have almost no viscosity index improvers in them because the base oil is already a 40 wt., and doesn't need them. That way, the issue of viscosity loss due to destruction of the VII additives is pretty much bypassed. You would, of course want to actually warm up the engine, and any heat durability advantages that a synthetic would have would probably be surrendered since most such oils are dino only.

[LVThumper]

Thanks. I just might put the regular clutch back together and use a nice quality oil for that race.

[642MX]

Thanks. I just might put the regular clutch back together and use a nice quality oil for that race.

How many miles/hours does the race last?

[LVThumper]

This years race was 559 miles!!