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overhauling an older xt350


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Has anyone ever fitted an oil cooler to the XT350? I change my oil every 100 to 300 miles and have had no problems thus far. I do stick with the conventional oil (20W50) because that is what has been used since new. Can I change to full synthetic without any issues? CORKY how long have you been running the full synthetic and which manufacturer and weight?

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all but went into a speed wobble when the steering was even slightly corrected

Mine tends to head shake as well, not so much since I moved the forks flush with the clamps (who put these things together?). It seems to do it under different conditions and at different speeds, body position helps but sometimes it seems theres nothing to be done but change your speed. I am still playing with settings, they seem to make a difference. My 81 XL125 had similar problems on loose surfaces but not on pavement. At least it is more predictable than the XL. That thing would come out of nowhere and cross you up.

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Speed wobble! I dion't do much street riding.

Just short stints between the dirt.

I have found the best place for the forks is put the grove at the top of fork tube even with the top of the top triple clamp. :D

When riding in the dirt I am very happy with the handling to a point!!!

This is NOT a race framed motorcycle, at a certian point it can get very twichy.

Its FRAME FLEX nothing you can do about it. :applause:

Ride it within the design limits. :prof:

XR CHRIS;

I have thought about an oil cooler. Haven't needed it yet. Jet it right.

A far as oil I am going to get a lot of static about this. :bonk:

I usually change my oil and filter at around 300 miles under normal conditions.

I have run up to 1200 off road miles in Baja with out oil change.

I use REGULAR SAE motor oil. 10-40 winter and spring and 20-50 during hot summer months- 90 degrees or more. :ride:

No motor failure due to oil failure. :applause:

Corky :prof:??

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I am actually changing the needle position this week before the weekend ride and am re-locating my breather tube and carb. lines up at the snorkel for water crossing. I do and will continue to change my oil every 300 or so even when most will say, it's not long enough.

Corky, It's XTChris not XR.

No worries. I have always loved the XR400 and just passed one up last week, a 2000 XR400 babied @ 3400 Canadian. I don't have the heart to sell my 86 XT350

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It's not that I don't like the handling it really feels good for the easy offroading I do, just that sometimes, usually between 90-100km/h on the highway on a windy day it starts to, well... wobble. It has done this at much lower speeds on gravelly roads as well. The front just shimmies back and forth. It can be a little disconcerting at highway speed :D I figured it had to do with my set-up, and knobbie front tire :applause:

Also, it has never done this with a passenger, so I think the extra weight stabilizes it better (I'm about 155lbs with gear).

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The correct setup for the forks is for the top of the fork tube to be flush with the top of the triple clamp. I found that out because the dealer set mine up out of the crate with the top of the tubes about 20mm above the triple clamp. It would headshake very badly like that and stopped when I set it in the correct position. Maybe your passenger is lowering the rear end enough to make the steering geometry less steep. It is worth looking at. Mine also came new from the factory with defective front wheel bearings which it spit out one night at high speed. Knobbies never made any real difference in road handling on mine.

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The correct setup for the forks is for the top of the fork tube to be flush with the top of the triple clamp.

Top of the fork tube at the threads for the caps? I have mine the same way in which you described at 20mm below the top (area where the cap threads into fork body). I found it odd that it was like that but never changed it because I never see any on-road action and have not experienced any "wobble". Thanks

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  • 6 months later...

Hi everyone, Since you were talking about fork set up on an xt350. i have a quick question. I know there hasnt been any action on this thread but in hopes of an answer to my question i figured i would try anyway. i have an older 1989 model xt350 and am in need of fork seals. I have been searching for the correct ones but i find that most manufacturers offer one set for all years 85-00 and that other manufacturers say that there is a difference in sizes between 85-96 and 97-00 year bikes. such as Vesrah brand- they say that their fork seals only fit 97-00 XTs and then Parts unlimited says that one set of seals fit all 85-00 XTs. does anyone know for sure the correct fork seal to go back in my forks? OH AND where can i find aftermarket jets to fit in that strange XT carb of mine? thank you for the help, xt350rider.

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I've heard of people finding other jets that fit tis carb, but no one ever says exactly what they were from. For the main jet you can use the one for the xt600. There are a couple that are offered. You can also drill them out if needed.

I think I ended up with the stock 600 main jet on the non CV side and I shimmed both of the needles. Pilot is stock but I added some home made Power Now inserts to help richen up the bottom end.

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Has anyone ever fitted an oil cooler to the XT350? I change my oil every 100 to 300 miles and have had no problems thus far. I do stick with the conventional oil (20W50) because that is what has been used since new. Can I change to full synthetic without any issues? CORKY how long have you been running the full synthetic and which manufacturer and weight?

Old post, but wanted to answer your question about oil. You can change to synthetic if you like. I run full synthetics in just about everything I own and always have. It's even easier to do so with a bike because the cost is neglible considering how little oil they use. Stay away from semi-synthetics, they are not much better than conventional oil, just a clever marketing ploy to get the guy to buy that isn't willing to spring for the full synthetic price. If you are thinking semi-synthetic, just stick with dino and save your pesos.

I generally run the heavier stuff, such as 15w-50 due to the warmer climate here, but you can probably get by with something a bit lighter. You can use automotive oil as well, just make certain it is not "energy conserving". Oils marked "energy conserving" contain friction modifiers that can cause clutch slippage.

Finally, most synthetic oils today are compatable with conventional oil and either can be substituted in a pinch if you're in a jam and can't find the specific oil you have in the bike.

Synthetics are light years ahead of dino oil when it comes to dealing with heat (right up the XT's alley) and providing superior lubrication. They can be run for extended periods as well, but I still stick pretty much to my regular change intervals with my bikes.

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Ditto. I always ran synthetic in my XT350 because it ran hot enough to fry your foot on the clutch cover. One hard, fast offroad ride would completely toast every conventional oil that I tried. Ultimately it was cheaper to buy full synthetic than to change the oil after EVERY ride.

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