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my son and i both have '02 yz250f's. bought both of them 01/2002, run mobil 1 15w-50. have never had a clutch problem with mine but are having problems with a sticky clutch on my son's bike. i first done the washer fix, better for a little while. i just replaced the plates and springs (oem). there was some small grooves in the basket so i filed them down, very careful not to file to much. i am still having the same problem. i copied and pasted this from a previous post. does anyone know if this actually works? if not i guess my next step is a new clutch basket?

"The boss spring plate and seat plate was a band-aid fix by Yahama to stop a grabby clutch. If you don't want to use them just replace the friction plate and clutch plate on the bottom of the stack with the same ones as the rest of them."

all the new plates are the same size.

also after replacing the plates and springs, did one race and the steel plates and oil are a burnt black color. the old plates and oil were the same way. i've always changed the oil after every two are three rides. any suggestions would be appreciated.

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I figure that you know what you are doing when it comes to adjusting and putting a clutch together. But did you ever consider that maybe it is the oil that could be starting the problem. Everyone I know that has used a automotive oil has eventually burnt their clutch, especially if you are clutching the bike alot ( riding trails, etc.) I'm not trying to sell you an oil, but I have used yamalube since day one in my 01 YZ250F and I'm still running the same clutch. I checked my basket and plates about a month ago and the plates were all still good with just a little wear on the basket. And no, I am not easy on my clutch.

I'm not sure if there is a known problem with the 02's but when I read your post the first thing that stood out to me was the oil you are using. Other members might have other ideas, but I think a few of them will back me up on the oil.

Good luck.

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I ride a 01 and have had problems with my clutch also.

I did the washer fix, that helped a little.

Also drilled more holes in the hub to get more oil flowing to the plates. It seems that I don't burn my plates as quickly now. It also seems as though I get less stickage now.

I am running the Mobil synthetic oil as well but I still get a lot of debri in my oil filter when doing oil changes. Where is all that metal coming from?????????

I also got my actuator arm extended by someone on this site. I can't remember his name but that made the pull a little easier.

My basket and hub are still covered in something that looks like melted black mollassas but it doesn't come off for anything. I assume it happened during one particular clutch abusing, engine overheating, climb up a rocky, rooty, rainy hill. (took about an hour, lots of fun)

Good luck on the clutch.

I love crashing!

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I think yamalube is better than mobile one, because it is made to run with wet clutches. It doesn't have the additives or friction modifiers that you would find in an automotive oil. I know that there are a few manufacturers out there that are making four stroke racing oils now, but the reason that I have not tried any of them is because I believe that a motor will get broken in to a specific oil, and if you start changing oils around then you are just asking for DNF's. I have proof of this with cars I have owned and built for the strip and with my YZ. Another reason I have stuck with the yamalube is because if anything catastrophic happens to the motor, the first thing a shop is going to ask you is what kind of oil you are running? And if you are not running what the manufacturer recommends, well then there goes any type of warranty the shop or the manufacturer gave you. I do almost all of my own work on my motor so I don't really rely on that, but if something did happen that was oil related, you know who I'm going after to have it repaired and I won't be hearing no excuses about the oil I was using.

As for oil weight, I run 20w-40, but if I can get it I prefer 20w-50 because it doesn't thin down as much from the engine heat. I have found that most shops don't carry the 20w-50 so you might wan't to order a case for yourself if you plan on using it.

You can get the yamalube as a standard oil or a synthetic oil. If it says 4-R on the container then it is sythetic. Do I believe synthetic is better? Yes. I have seen a standard oil and a synthetic oil tested using a piece of steel bar stock on a metal wheel. The wheel was coated with regular motor oil and then spun at a set rmp. The bar stock was then steadily clamped down untill the wheel stopped spinning. Same was done with the synthetic oil. Would you believe that it took more than TWICE the amount of psi to stop the wheel with the synthetic. I saw this at a seminar at a trade school so it wasn't a hoax.

I don't have an exact price per quart, but you are looking at around just under 5 bucks. If you buddy up with the service department at your local shop then maybe they will hook you up with a discount. It helps believe me.

I try to ride everything. I don't stick with one style of riding because what you learn in the woods also helps you in MX and vice-versa. So my clutch gets some good all around abuse.

This is just my opinion about yamalube. I'm not trying to sell you the oil, but you asked so I answered.

At about 5 bucks a quart the stuff is really expensive, but so are clutches and motors.

REMEMBER! You get what you pay for! 🙂

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