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Bars, Clutch, Plugs, Mileage etc.


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Hello C-Dalers,

Got a few questions for ya. 2002 E440

1)

I tried to install a set of Renthal bars in the Windham-Carmichael bend, but ran out of room on the throttle side to mount everything. Specifically the front brake line hits the cross brace and can not be positioned properly. I like bars with a low profile and a bit more back sweep than stock. Anyone have success installing a bend like this?

2)

Anyone have experience with fuel economy on the E440? Going on an 80 mile ride Saturday in the desert outside of Bend Oregon, mainly flat wide open area with a bit of tight woods/ brush and a few small hills. Will just be cruising most of the time. Don’t want to back pack fuel unless it’s necessary.

3)

I have seen reference to using a CR9EK plug. My manul calls for the CR8EK.

If I recall, with NGK the higher the number the cooler the plug? Does that sound right. Anyone using a plug other than the CR8EK?

4)

Got about 150 miles / 8 hours on the bike now and it seems to be a bit rich off idle. I thought I read somewhere that dealers would lean the settings out a bit after initial break in, but my local dealer hasn’t heard of such a procedure. Anyone have this done after break in? Just wondering if this could help reduce low speed flame outs. I have raised the idle a bit and it helped, but still stalling at the most inopportune times!

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I had my bike foul a plug at break-in and was told by dealer that Bike would have to be leaned out and the "8" put in after break-in. This definetly made a noticeable difference,and I have not fouled a plug since. That was about 9-10 tanks of gas ago. My dealer is Austin Sports Cycles @512-258-7188.

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I've tried many conventional bar bends with no luck. The brake line hits the cross brace. I run 1 1/8" bars and changed the banjo fitting at the master cylinder to get around this issue.

Be SURE the idle is at least 2100rpm. Read the plug and see if it needs to be leaned out. FYI my XR650 would just barely make 75 miles on 2.6 gallons. The 'Dale engine is much more performance oriented. I wouldn't try 80 miles without a gas stop.

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1) My front brake hits the cross brace on my Renthal YZ bend as well. Position is okay, but just barely.

2) I count on 60 and could probably get 70 if traction is slippery. 80 would really be pushing it, but may be possible with very easy throttle.

3) use the CR8EK. The 9 runs too cool.

4) The flame outs are caused by a combination of cam, partially fouling plug, and low idle. Jetting can help if the plug is fouling. Keeping the idle at 2100 helps, but can't make up for a slow clutch hand. HR has a writeup on the EFM auto clutch that makes the EFM look awfully tempting.

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You can easily install Pro Tapers with the Windham bend. Not only will all your perches, buttons, and controls fit, but you will have easier access to the rebound adjusters on the top of your forks.

All you have to do is replace the stock bar mounts with Applied Oversized bar mounts and then bolt on the Pro Tapers. You can use universal adapters, but then you'll defeat the purpose of the low rise and it's not as sano an install.

Hope that helps,

Joe 🙂

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Hawkins woods bend Pro-Tapers will allow everything to fit easy. The bend is like a Hona CRHi.

I've gone 60 mi. but 80 would be a stretch.

I don't agree on using the CR8EK plug, its a band aid for poor calibration, the bike runs hot enough with the 9. Keep the 9 and set the FI correctly (leaner). This and the idle adjustment helps, but the addition of a flywheel weight will totally eliminate stalling unless you make a big mistake, and greatly enhance low speed on/off throttle performance.

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Yes he did. I have spoken to Cannondale, to Steahly, and to R&S performance(did some flywheels). 'Dale told me, on the new generation ('02) motors anyway, there are NO documented failures. It is just a conservative move, probably until they can complete long term testing. Steahly has supplied Cannondale directly with many flywheels for testing. My dealer has been riding a demo upgraded '01 MX400 converted to a woods bike for a year now, including a flywheel weight, with no problems. Looking at the bearing type, I don't buy that the additional weight will kill it.

The E really benefits from the weight, it runs much better in enduro conditions. The stock flywheel is very light(SEM aluminum), and the compression very high, and this is what makes it prone to stall at low revs under load. I did not like the way the bike ran in the nasty stuff stock, they tried to do too much with the map alone to smooth it out, but you can't overcome compression with software. Now the bike will not stall unless you do something stupid. I even lowered the idle 200 RPM with no stalling. I'm now running the 115% TTS E map and its totally controllable with great response. I will experiment with the C and X maps for more open or better traction conditions. If you must have the light flywheel/quick reving snap then you probably want the X bike anyway, or if you get an additional complete weighted flywheel rather than modify your own, you can swap back to stock in minutes with an impact wrench and puller.

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Thanks for the tips, I think I'll give the Pro Tapers a try and raise the idle a bit more to see if it cleans up the bottom end.

I'm planning to run the tank dry as we'll be carrying some fuel with us. I'll post the mileage next week.

I have been considering a flywheel weight or possibly the auto clutch. Wish the E440 had a lower compression ratio and a lower 1st gear and how about a taller 5th gear while I'm dreaming!

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I have a 12 oz. that is great for my use. I'm sure there is enough room to machine off a few ounces or order a lighter one if you wish. In fact I think Rad Ron machined his down a bit. Even if I get the EFM I'll keep the flywheel and lighten it slightly if neccessary.

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Was unable to calculate fuel economy on our ride Saturday as I got off hard in a rocky section and broke 2 ribs. We were 32 miles into an 80 mile loop. I had a gallon of fuel in my back pack when I crashed, I poured it into the tank and it took the full gallon so I was getting less than 30 MPG. We were riding pretty hard on medium twisty stuff (trail #40 at the Millican Valley OHV area just east of Bend Oregon). Was able to connect up with a gravel road to gently cruise back to the truck. Prior to the ride I adjusted the Ohlins clickers in between the C440 and X440 settings and it was working very well, especially in the long whoop sections. Was having a great ride up until the rock sample!

BTW, I pulled the plug before we left and it was very black. Any suggestions on what changes I should ask my dealer to make to lean it out a bit?

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Bummer about the ribs, they hurt!

Revalve and spring that thing before you kill yourself! Clickers don't do anything for high damping speeds.

I did over 40 miles in the rocks today, motor is awesome now, but I may even go one more down on the rear spring to a 90Nm.

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Hi GP,

Suspension feels great, although I could probably go to the next stiffer rear spring according to Pro-Action and thier reccomendation appears to be correct as I was unable to set the sag perfectly.

Crash Saturday was 100% pilot error!

What have you done to your suspension and what is your weight, skill and type of terrain you are set up for?

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You must be another heavy one. I think Jim and I are the only sub six footers that bought one of these things. Anyway, stock was terrible. I went to .42 front/95Nm rear, with LTR valving, and run my forks up in the clamps as far as they will go. Its very good, but I want better. Next I want to soften the fork midvalve and try a 90Nm spring.

I'm a 175-180 lb. B enduro rider, very rocky terrain.

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Stock wasn't bad for sand/moto, but I ride a lot from my house and its like Ridge Run, so stock didn't come close. Even with the lighter springs/valving its still good in the whoops. Did you go with Rev-Loc or EFM and how do you like it?

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