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when i was replacing petals in wife's 2003 200 exc  what i found was 125/144 petals seem to be thinner material so come on quicker and wear out quicker and 200 petals are thicker and last longer and are more progressive when they come on (much more controllable and better traction imo)

 

this was for the standard reed cage , so standard oem carbon fibre replacements and this little 200 has more snap and stronger then my v force 3 reeded kx250

 

Any idea if the reed pedals from a 2014-2015 150SX (boyesen) will work on a stock 200 boyesen cage? Specifically 2010.

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Any idea if the reed pedals from a 2014-2015 150SX (boyesen) will work on a stock 200 boyesen cage? Specifically 2010.

 

sorry no idea i just bought standard 2003 200 exc petals to fit a standard 2003 reed block

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Doing my top end and was looking for recommendations on where to send head for some shaving. Assume this is worth it from what I've read to get a bit more low end torque?

Thx

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Doing my top end and was looking for recommendations on where to send head for some shaving. Assume this is worth it from what I've read to get a bit more low end torque?

Thx

definitely worth it, rb designs its good and a bunch of others, its not rocket science.

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Couple question here for my 200 fellow. I own 200 xcw 2012. It has 81 hours on it.  I looked through the exhaust port and the piston is showing some wear. Where the exhaust port is, the piston has lost the machining marks and there is some very light scratches. I can also see some blowby. I can still see the cross hatching on the intake side of cylinder.

 

 The bike always start very easily, first or second kick. It still rip pretty good. The low end power still seem good. I have always used motorex at 45:1.

 

Questions: 

 

Is it safe to keep running for like 15-20 more hours before rebuilding it?

 

Do I have to unbolt the whole engine to remove the cylinder?

 

What gasket size should I have on hand to set the X dimension properly?

 

Thank you!

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Couple question here for my 200 fellow. I own 200 xcw 2012. It has 81 hours on it. I looked through the exhaust port and the piston is showing some wear. Where the exhaust port is, the piston has lost the machining marks and there is some very light scratches. I can also see some blowby. I can still see the cross hatching on the intake side of cylinder.

The bike always start very easily, first or second kick. It still rip pretty good. The low end power still seem good. I have always used motorex at 45:1.

Questions:

Is it safe to keep running for like 15-20 more hours before rebuilding it?

Do I have to unbolt the whole engine to remove the cylinder?

What gasket size should I have on hand to set the X dimension properly?

Thank you!

You have to unbolt the 2 engine bolts and the head stay then you can tilt the motor up in the front to remove the cylinder, you do not have to remove the swingarm pivot. As for base gaskets size I bought all the differnt sizes because stock the

X dimention was a little to low and also mine had 3 different base gaskets layered to get the right dimension so I recommend buy one of each size,

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You have to unbolt the 2 engine bolts and the head stay then you can tilt the motor up in the front to remove the cylinder, you do not have to remove the swingarm pivot. As for base gaskets size I bought all the differnt sizes because stock the

X dimention was a little to low and also mine had 3 different base gaskets layered to get the right dimension so I recommend buy one of each size,

Thank for the reply. I bought the .25 and .50 mm gasket already, thinking it might be just fine, but Il be buying the ,20 and .40 aswell to be all set when time come.

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My 2004 KTM 200 exc is new to me and am hoping that I get some help with something confusing about the chain length. Shouldn't be so hard but here is the dilemma. I go to Rockymountain, put in my bike, says 520 x 118, get that. Put it on the bike and it is ridiculously too long. Ok so I put the old chain laid out next to it and the old chain is 4 links shorter, 114. Hmm? What the? So, I go back to Rockymounatin site to see what is spec on the OEM parts, offers a 118 and a 114. Well, no help there. I look up the specs on my user manual disc, only gives dimensions of chain other than length. What the heck gives! So I try another online supplier to see, Motosport, they recommend 112! I give up. So, what is it 200 owners? Not sure what to do here. Don't understand why a 118 is even offered for this bike even on the OEM list. The 114 seemed pretty good on the bike but another site says 112. Such confusion. Any help would be much appreciated.

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My 2004 KTM 200 exc is new to me and am hoping that I get some help with something confusing about the chain length. Shouldn't be so hard but here is the dilemma. I go to Rockymountain, put in my bike, says 520 x 118, get that. Put it on the bike and it is ridiculously too long. Ok so I put the old chain laid out next to it and the old chain is 4 links shorter, 114. Hmm? What the? So, I go back to Rockymounatin site to see what is spec on the OEM parts, offers a 118 and a 114. Well, no help there. I look up the specs on my user manual disc, only gives dimensions of chain other than length. What the heck gives! So I try another online supplier to see, Motosport, they recommend 112! I give up. So, what is it 200 owners? Not sure what to do here. Don't understand why a 118 is even offered for this bike even on the OEM list. The 114 seemed pretty good on the bike but another site says 112. Such confusion. Any help would be much appreciated.

It really depends on what you have for gearing/sprockets. Less teeth means you'll need less links on the chain. When I put new chains on, I often end up taking a link or two off to fit. Better to have too long a chain than too short to start. Do you have a chain breaker tool?

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It really depends on what you have for gearing/sprockets. Less teeth means you'll need less links on the chain. When I put new chains on, I often end up taking a link or two off to fit. Better to have too long a chain than too short to start. Do you have a chain breaker tool?

It is stock on the sprocket sizes. I put the original chain back on and adjusted the proper slack and would have to say 114 is going to be the right length. I don't have a breaker but I guess would grinding a pin and punch it out work? If not I will likely take it to a local shop. Puzzled though as to why I even need to go through the extra hassle but oh well. 

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It is stock on the sprocket sizes. I put the original chain back on and adjusted the proper slack and would have to say 114 is going to be the right length. I don't have a breaker but I guess would grinding a pin and punch it out work? If not I will likely take it to a local shop. Puzzled though as to why I even need to go through the extra hassle but oh well.

or buy a chain breaker there about 20 bucks

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Couple question here for my 200 fellow. I own 200 xcw 2012. It has 81 hours on it.  I looked through the exhaust port and the piston is showing some wear. Where the exhaust port is, the piston has lost the machining marks and there is some very light scratches. I can also see some blowby. I can still see the cross hatching on the intake side of cylinder.

 

 The bike always start very easily, first or second kick. It still rip pretty good. The low end power still seem good. I have always used motorex at 45:1.

 

Questions: 

 

Is it safe to keep running for like 15-20 more hours before rebuilding it?

 

Do I have to unbolt the whole engine to remove the cylinder?

 

What gasket size should I have on hand to set the X dimension properly?

 

Thank you!

I put 185hrs. on my '09 200 XC-W before doing its first top end.  Andrew Cooksey  http://www.cookseycrank.com/ has everything you need for a top end job at a great price and great service.  Take off the engine stay bolts, unbolt and pop off the head, unbolt and pop off the cylinder, bingo bango you're ready to do the top end.  For $25. or so, invest in a KTM Repair Manual.  You'll be glad you did.

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My 2004 KTM 200 exc is new to me and am hoping that I get some help with something confusing about the chain length. Shouldn't be so hard but here is the dilemma. I go to Rockymountain, put in my bike, says 520 x 118, get that. Put it on the bike and it is ridiculously too long. Ok so I put the old chain laid out next to it and the old chain is 4 links shorter, 114. Hmm? What the? So, I go back to Rockymounatin site to see what is spec on the OEM parts, offers a 118 and a 114. Well, no help there. I look up the specs on my user manual disc, only gives dimensions of chain other than length. What the heck gives! So I try another online supplier to see, Motosport, they recommend 112! I give up. So, what is it 200 owners? Not sure what to do here. Don't understand why a 118 is even offered for this bike even on the OEM list. The 114 seemed pretty good on the bike but another site says 112. Such confusion. Any help would be much appreciated.

What does your Owner's Manual say?  You do have one, right?  Mine says 14/48 gearing with a 520 chain, number of links isn't given because that's dependent on the sprockets you've got.  Every chain I've ever ordered from RMATVMC has come too long.    Count the number of chain side plates and x2 for the number of links, add a couple more links, order a couple of master links specific to that brand of chain, and you're ready to go.

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Ok chain is shortened (used grinder, hammer and flat head screw driver) but perhaps should go 115 next time (if I keep the same size sprockets) as is tight taking chain on and off. Had the wheel as far forward as I could go. 

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Ok chain is shortened (used grinder, hammer and flat head screw driver) but perhaps should go 115 next time (if I keep the same size sprockets) as is tight taking chain on and off. Had the wheel as far forward as I could go. 

Chains only come in even number of links.  Make sure the axle blocks have the short side facing forward, take out the chain adjuster bolts and slap some no-seize grease on on them, then bolt everything back together.

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Ok so i have a 2004 ktm 200 sx and about two months ago i had a race and at the end it started to make a clicking noise on the left side of the motor i did a top end because i dint know when the previous owener did one i took apart the power vaulve and noticed the arm that moves the cogs to open the vaulve moved slightly. I started it and it still had that noise im wondering if its the arm but i had a bad output shaft seal and slowly leaked oil im wondering if it had damaged the crank in any way the crank had to no up and down movement but had left and right. All help is much appreciated

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Hi I have a 02 200 exc. I am looking for a good source for a free owners manual and workshop manual. I've done quite a bit of searching and can find heaps of pre 2002 and 2003 onwards just not 2002. I payed for a download version which turned out to be a scam. Any help would be great. Also does anybody know the exact carb that comes on this model? Keihin pwk 38 or 38ag? What does the ag stand for? Thanks in advance

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Ok so i have a 2004 ktm 200 sx and about two months ago i had a race and at the end it started to make a clicking noise on the left side of the motor i did a top end because i dint know when the previous owener did one i took apart the power vaulve and noticed the arm that moves the cogs to open the vaulve moved slightly. I started it and it still had that noise im wondering if its the arm but i had a bad output shaft seal and slowly leaked oil im wondering if it had damaged the crank in any way the crank had to no up and down movement but had left and right. All help is much appreciated

.006" max for side play in the crank. If it is much more than what you can just barely feel, it's time to have it rebuilt.

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