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lockup at 60mph!


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I had just changed front sprocket back to 15 so i would have 15/47. I went to check it out. I turned left at the top of my street and hit the main road and gave it some gas. As soon as i hit 60MPH in 5th the whole thing locked up and i felt a lump in my kaks. Luckily i managed to control it with the back end sliding everywhere. I tried the cltuch but it still locked. I came to a stop and feared the worst. Gear or engine seizure. I tryed selecting gears and it wouldnt change but after 10 mins it found one then another and then another. I tried pushing it in gear with clutch in and it was ok now.I started it and it was fine first start . I took off down the road very gently and things came back to normal after about 5 mins. I took it back to the house and checked to see if the sprocket had came loose and it had a little but not enough that it could have caused this so i think it was just a coincidence. I tightened it agin and took it out after it had cooled for an hour. This time it was hard to find neutral but it ran through the gears pretty sticky but ok when running. I took it into a field and gave it alot of gas and it seemed normal.

I am by this stage very confused. The only thing i now notice different about the bike is that when i am downshifting and engine braking, when i go down into first it makes a winding noise that winds down as it comes to a stp but just in first. I am not sure whether it did this before and i am just noticing now because i am pating attention to the gearbox but it sounds weird ...kinda like a little toy car that runs with a winding mechanism. I just read Skooby's posts on his UK bike having a gear box seizure early this year. It was located near the spacer i think.

Is it possible that a gear could have seized inside yet it appears ok after?

I am quite confused as i thought once gears or engine seizes it means your bike is fuxored and aint moving anywhere clutch or not. Its been a good week for me and my DRZ....I also found my right fork seal had gone on Monday night . I discovered a puddle of fork fluid on the ground in the garage.

Geez This has been my first venture into Bikes apart from chilhood scramblers. I've only had the DRZ 2 months and havent even had it on the road legally yet as my test is next week. I was really getting excited about getting into enduros but if i am looking at a hefty rebuild i dont think i can fund it and this may be a short lived DRZ relationship. :D

Has anyone else had similar probs?

Skooby u stll around? ๐Ÿ™‚

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Another thought on this, that has came up before.

You just changed back to 15/47 from 14/47 the stock rubber dampened 15T does not require the shim behind it that some 14T sprockets come with, did your 14T have a shim with it?

Just hoping its that simple.

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Total bummer Mucker. ๐Ÿ™‚

Remember check oil filter for filings, drain the oil and check again for any filings too. Best of luck, keep us posted on your findings. :D

Definetly sounds like the motor/crank and bearings are fine, but something within the gears since it still skidded after you pulled the clutch in.

Shifter forks maybe??? Just giving some possible ideas...still thinkin though.

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It sounds like your chain is too tight. How loose did your sprocket become? If it was loose enough so you could move it back and forth on the spline than I think you may have found your problem. I use an impact gun to zap mine on and off. I'm not sure of the torque spec on this one but I know it's supposed to be real tight. Don't get discouraged, we are all taking a crash course in bike repair. Just don't take it too literally. Atleast you and the bike are unscathed. Let us know what you find.

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nodakDRZ posted a while back on something that sounded like that, but ended up being his valves or something. Do a search on "locked up" and read that. I hope this isn't your problem though, it's sounds pretty bad. ๐Ÿ™‚

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well when i tightened the sprocket after it was loose by 1/4 turn before it hit resistance.

I measured the chain by eye and there seemed to be roughly 1.5 inches of slack. If its any indication i have the chain tensioner set at 3 notches past no.1 with 15/47 on stock chain.

The sprocket is on with the raised side facing towards the engine and the flat side facing out.

I did find it hard getting the 15t sprocket on as ittight and pressing against the rubber chain guide, but once it was fully in it moved freely just touching the chain guide.

Ever hear that winding noise in first before?

there is no oil leaking.

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Sprocket flat side out is correct.

What did you use for front chain guide?

The chrome one for the 14T would not work with a 15T sprocket unless it was modified by the previous owner, has it got enough clearance? If not and your chain had a tight spot in it it might make that sound like you describe.

The chrome chain guide should be stamped either 15T or 14T.

Don't run it without one.

Get the bike up on the stand again and spin the wheel by hand and check it over closely, if the problem was caused by something seizing the chain its got to have done some damage to chain/sprockets/guides by locking up at 60mph.

Good work staying on the beastie by the way, i had a road-bike railroad the chain into the engine casing at high speed but luckily it did not lock up the rear wheel.

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did you let the bike warm up before you went blasting down the road at 60mph ? if not you may have experienced a cold siezure .always let your bike warm up for a few minutes before subjecting your engine to a lot of high rpm running .it could also be something internal , i would have a good mechanic look it over for ya , i would'nt trust it until you find the problem and correct it . imagine if you are rounding a corner at 60 mph and it just decides to lock up again ..... not good . just my .02

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You say you went back to 15T sprocket. Does that mean you had this sprocket on before? Since all this happened after you changed the sprocket, that would implicate the sprocket as the probable cause. Perhaps go back to the previous sprocket to see if symptoms disappear. If your stock sprocket is 14T then the front chain guard will not have enough clearance for the 15T, as someone already mentioned. Check the chain closely for gouges or marks indicating it was jammed in between something. Was the chain wadded up at the front sprocket when you stopped? Are you sure it's the correct sprocket (thickness, offset, pitch)? Is this a new sprocket on an old chain or visa versa? 1.5" slack may be a little tight, I think 40-50mm is the spec? The fact that the sprocket was loose is also highly suspicious. Did it get bent. Sight down along the chain from the rear sprocket while spinning the tire to check the tracking and for warped sprocket or bent teeth. Make sure that sprocket is torqued properly. Step on the rear brake pedal while you torque it (the spec is 80 ft-lb). BTW, I just put a new 13T sprocket on and it seems to make more noise too. Hope you get it figured out and everything is OK. Keep us posted.

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easy way to check chain tension:

With bike off(for the idiots out there ๐Ÿ™‚ ),

push the lower section of the chain up to the swingarm at the end of the chain guard(swingarm guard, not the chain guard on the S-model).

With the chain held there, the top section of chain should move just slightly up and down. It shouldn't be real tight and it shouldn't move a bunch.

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It sounds like a transmission problem to me. The nut that holds the sprocket on also holds the shaft to the bearing. If it was tight, then it was loose 1/4 turn after the lock up, that is a clue there is a problem. Only real way to find out is to split the cases and inspect all the parts. You may find a gear galled on the shaft, then freed up when it cooled off. Is the sleeve that goes in the seal in the right way? The notches must go "IN". If you see the notches on the end of the spacer with the sprocket off, you have an oil feed problem and the shaft and all the parts that spin on it have been starved for oil.

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I believe NOBLE hit the nail on the head. It is possible that the spacer is installed backwards. The transmission oil supply is fed through the shaft and exits through the slots in the spacer. If it is installed backwards it will block the oil supply and starve the transmission of oil, hence the lockup. Once things cooled a bit the tranny loosened up and seemed o.k. but you probably have some internal damage and a teardown seems necessary.. ๐Ÿ™‚:D

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Ok well no real news as yet.

I still havent done much about it.

I only go for my test on Friday which means i am legally able to ride. After i get it, I intend to take the bike to the mechanic.

I had a look at the bike yesterday for the first time since it happpened and all seemed back to normal. I rode it for about an hour and it ran through the gears like normal. The only thing i did notice was when i started the bike the first time and it was in neutral as i revved it the bike started to try and move off the stand which i thought was weird. Is this something that could be related to worn selctor forks when cold etc?

I did how ever put the new headlight on which now gives me low and high beam and a sweet looking front end.

I will let you all know exactly what the mechanic makes of it all as soon as i know.

what would you guys pay a mechanic just to split the cases?

I would like a rough idea as i dont want to get ripped off and i have no idea what the normal charges would be.

So what would it cost just for the labour to get to the gear box and inspect it without adding any part prices?

Heres a few pics....

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sorry heres those pics..

was talking to the mechanic and he said most likely a gear jammed or locked against the shaft but if it has free'd itself now it isnt anymore likely to happen again any more than normal.

He is going to take it for a spin next week though.

rightsidece.jpg

behindce.jpg

:D๐Ÿ™‚:D :D

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