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help clutch splines dont fit crank!?


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look at my pics and tell me wtfu?!

just got my first pit bike its ssr 110 dx3 or 125 im not sure, its the steel mono shock swing arm, with 12" and 14" wheels.

bike died, kicks over but wont turn crank, i took off right side cover and found outer part of clutch loose and gasket gone, also retaining nut was off.

went to put back together and the center of the clutch is supposed to spline to the crank but the splines are only on the very outside edge and dont go far enough in to fit teh crank.

what do i do? is the clutch built wrong?

also i noticed that there is a smaller gear on teh crank with a key way but no keyway on the crank. this gear is in contact with a plastic gear thats behind what appears to be the oil pump. is this the oil pump drive? shouldnt it be solid to the crank?

any healp greatly appreciated

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there was some metal on the crank splines, but not very much. inside the clucht it looks like they were never machined into it.its almost perfectly smooth, afew scratches from repetedly kicking it over when it let go.

does anybody have a clutch for a zong 107 they want to get rid of? all i need is the inner part of the clutch. or where could i find one?

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Pull the Gear off that sitting on the Crankshaft and assemble the clutch basket with the gear applied to the basket.

then you will see how (deep it sits) very little ( as you can see the difference in the teeth height) thats it.... then assemble the rest of the clutch but pay attension to how it goes together

and that little cylinder type part with the spring is the (Actuator plunger)

that goes on the end of the clutch after its mounted on the crank and its ready for the clutch cover. the clutch cover arm "internally" when operated presses against the (actuator plunger) and applys pressure the the clutch (en-gage and dis-engages)

it always ends up at the bottom of the case or cover when the clutch cover is removed.

Dont lose it the clutch wont work.

PS..... it installs with the spring toward the clutch

PSS.... make sure that you dont play with the clutch arm and cause the Mechanizum (Heel) to Ratchet out of the case cover ( it needs to be totally sitting flush)

Im glad you didn't give up.... ask first all is not lost!!!

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thanks for responding!!

the clutch will sit on the gear that sits on the oiler on the crank ok, it fully engages into the teeth of the clutch fibers. but the inner part of the clutch hub doesnt sit onto the crank splines. so if i hold it in place it will turn when kicking over but will not turn the crank

there are very helpfull exploded views on dratv.com that i wish i had found a couple days ago. thanks to outlaw for the info

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isnt the inner clutch part supposed to spline onto the crank? has anyone ever seen this issue??

please help me:banghead: :busted:

Yes thats what drives the clutch Housing (Crank mounted Clutch) the Internals (clutch Basket) drives Cog Gear that Drives the ring Gear (mounted to the outputshaft)

Hence the (Gear on the sleave) located on the crank shaft beneath the basket (the connection between the two) "Clutch and ring gear"

Dis-engage the Clutch allows the motor to spin in gear and to change gears

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so my inner clutch is misbuilt and i need a new one correct? does anyone want to sell me just this part?

also the outer plate with the bearing that is pressed against to release clutch came loose and teh holes are hogged out and gasket is missing. anyone know where i can get this gasket and plate?P1000846.jpg

thanks precision50 for helping me out!!:busted: i thought i knew what the problem is just second guessed myself cause ive never had one apart before.

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Trail bikes will have the gaskets....and the clutch complete for a good low price.

Im betting that you just have the clutch not assembled correctly...thats all

sometimes when you take things apart you forget how it goes back...been there done that.

clutches can be a bit tricky the first few times

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not to sound like an ass but it is together correctly for sure. im a ford master tech and the pressure springs have a place to sit on the inner piece and the basket. it isnt even possable to flip this over and get it to go together because of the springs that go sideways. it has to have been miss built.

i found a complete clutch for 120+- but i might as well spend another 50 and get a complete motor.

im tryin to get a sikk 125 motor, is the clutch the same on this motor?

if i dont find a cheap (like 20-30$) part its getting welded together:mad:

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not to sound like an ass but it is together correctly for sure. im a ford master tech and the pressure springs have a place to sit on the inner piece and the basket. it isnt even possable to flip this over and get it to go together because of the springs that go sideways. it has to have been miss built.

i found a complete clutch for 120+- but i might as well spend another 50 and get a complete motor.

im tryin to get a sikk 125 motor, is the clutch the same on this motor?

if i dont find a cheap (like 20-30$) part its getting welded together:mad:

And I have an Associates Degree in automotive technology from Franklin Institute in Boston and at one time (let my certs. expire) was a ASE Master tech...... ?:banghead:

but when I torn my first crf50 motor apart it took me awhile before I saw how things worked.....so now that we are on the same page.

It came out so it has to go back..correct...?

they make online Parts fich with excellent exploded diagrams...:applause:

Good luck

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Holy Cow! I'm glad I use a manual clutch. That thing looks like a bear to work on.

Basicly the same....have you had yours apart

mnfo50...has a manual clutch also what do you think we are talking about LOL

also a ct 70 clutch is the same as these types of manual clutches...im looking for a View of that

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