Yoshi RS-2 fitment Q.

I recently installed a RS2 on my 06 DRZ-s.....bought the pipe on ebay and it only had about 100 miles on it....came off a new 07...guy said it was too loud...anyways....bolted it up on my bike and the pipe rest firmly against the bottom of the shock resivore. Will the cause any problems? Could it overheat my shock fluid?

The PO swears this pipe is for a S model, and all the holes line up...altough it took a ton of work to get it to fit...pipe took me 30 min or more to put on because it was such a tight fit. I'll post pics later this afternoon.

post pictures.it is not right.

You need to loosen everything and twist it so it clears all the tight areas (shock/reservior & frame downtube). When I fitted mine it wanted to make contact w/ parts of the bike also, but if you get it twisted just right, it all clears. Make sure the header isn't touching the downtube of the frame, and you have clearance for the frame oil drain bolt as well. Make sure both the header stud and nut (to the cylinder) are tightened equally. It's easy to get them lopsided. And make sure the pipe/header joint is together far enough for the heat shield holes to line up in the bosses on the pipe. Everything will line up properly w/ a little persuasion and calm nerves. :applause:

Here's pics...If you need better ones let me know.

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l_9a532b35b4edd198794382fc8997f202.jpg

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The head pipe has about a fingers width clearance from the drain plug and about the same from the cyl. head. When I was installing the pipe, I had to have my dad hold the head pipe while I really worked to twist the can to make the pipe sections fit together.

I'll roll the bike out of the garage tommoro after work and pull the side panel and post more pics.

you have the muffler mounted incorrectly.that is causing your issue.

the red spacer replaces the rubber mount.

hmmm....I have already pulled the rubber out of the subframe...do you mean the rubber in the pipe hanger?

The red spacer has a step in it and that was how it fit in the subframe. Even after I loosen the rear hanger and the footpeg bolt, the pipe will not move any closer to the subframe and I dont see how the spacer mounts other than reversing it on the inside of the subframe and having some of the spacer stick out. Is the E model pipe diffrent? or SM? Here are more pictures....

m_e39af0b786146c193562a3121042a167.jpg spacer and accompaing bolt...

l_8c4619e5ae1f365c305203637fc3d89c.jpg This is how the pipe fits with the rear and footpeg bolts out....rubber subframe mount is gone.

they do not make that pipe for the E only for the E/SM.

i can see now you have it correct at the muffler.

how do you have mounted at the mid pipe?

It has a mount welded on the bottom of the pipe and it lines up real close to the S footpeg ex. hole....thats how it was mounted. This pipe is at least 2" in Dia. I'll go take some pictures of the footpeg mount.

The heat shield mounts on the pipe seperate of the header....the header pipe has the 2 bolt sliding collar to mount at the cyl. and no other mounting bosses on it. I have the head pipe collar bolted down evenly and the head pipe has approx. a fingers width of clearance from the top of the frame drain bolt. I'll post up more pictures in a few min.

It looks to me to be very high where it runs along the side of the engine. Could you back off the head and "roll" it around a bit. You may end up with one side a little closer to the drain and oil tank. It just seems really high there.

That would pivot it around the mid pipe mount, lowering it at the shock reservoir.

I'll try that tommoro after work....my camera died on me, so I'll have to go buy batteries tommoro to so I can snap more pics.

You need to loosen everything and twist it so it clears all the tight areas (shock/reservior & frame downtube). When I fitted mine it wanted to make contact w/ parts of the bike also, but if you get it twisted just right, it all clears. Make sure the header isn't touching the downtube of the frame, and you have clearance for the frame oil drain bolt as well. Make sure both the header stud and nut (to the cylinder) are tightened equally. It's easy to get them lopsided. And make sure the pipe/header joint is together far enough for the heat shield holes to line up in the bosses on the pipe. Everything will line up properly w/ a little persuasion and calm nerves. :cry:

+:applause::)

Enjoy

I talked to Planedoc last night and we kinda came to the same idea....I'll play with it this week as I get time...I'm in the middle of planning a annual jeep run in E. Tx that has kinda blown up all of a sudden....last year we had 70 rigs come out....as of tonight, we have over a 100 pre-registered with about 50-65 more coming to register at the event.....and I have to prep my jeep, and two of my friends jeeps in a week and a half.

As I get time to play with the bike I'll update if I get it sorted out or keep running into issues. Thanks guys for helping me....this is a great forum.

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