50 to 88cc newbie

I just bought a two bros 88cc s stage kit with carb. I am done with the install and the tuning of the carb. haven't taken it for a ride yet because i am going to install some heavy duty clutch springs. What kind of top speed/power difference can I expect without changing the gearing.

Your going to love it. The 88's make such a big difference. For me it wasn't as much as top speed as all the power gains. It pulls so hard now I love it. Let us know how you make out.

I would put a 15t counter sprocket on there. You'll love the 88cc kit. I have the same kit (Takegawa). Coming from a stock bike, you'll poop your pants once you ride it. Pulls through every gear soo good.

I couldn't wait to ride it before I put the clutch springs in. Two words: holy *$@!. Pulls really hard. Don't think the top speed is to different. I already have the 15 tooth front sprocket installed. I can tell the new clutch springs will make a difference. Is the 88cc kit 88cc's if you don't change the piston rod?

Theres a huge difference. I rode my buddies 50 with the 88 in it and loved it, of course, I weigh 220 lbs. My buddy weighs somewhere around 135 and it was toooooooo much power for him (well, not too much, but it was too strong for what he was doing, which was riding around town). He sold the kit yesterday.

you could go with 15/35t gear ratio. i have a bbr 88 kit in my 04, and it was a huge difference. top speed ain't gonna be much of a difference. did u get a rev box for it too? :applause: a high volume oil pump is a must too, if the kit didn't come with it. also, an oil cooler would be a good investment. you don't have to change the rod, to make it an 88cc. it goes by the size of the piston.

How about a little back story of this 50. I used to work at a Honda dealership a couple of years ago. Sometimes we would build a stock xr/crf 50 into a nice pit bike just to show off some of the accessories to the customers. This was one of those bikes. Handlebars, pipe, rev box front springs and rear shock...you get the idea. We sold this bike to a customer for his son. The kid had been getting into some trouble and the mother didn't want him to have it anymore. She came into the dealership and wanted to see if we would buy it back. She only wanted $900 for it! I couldn't pass it up. I think that there were some marriage issues, none of my business. A couple of weeks ago I found the 88cc kit on craigslist for a hundred bucks, once again I couldn't pass it up.

Depending on your riding area, I think stock gearing is where its at!

Or maybe +1 in the front..

If you go much more then that, you'll only end up maxing out your speed on huge open straight aways..

I do mostly woods riding and stunting though, but my stage 3 88 kit with stock gearing is where its at :applause:

Anyone know of a way to uninstall the clutch assembly without having to buy a special tool to do it?

Anyone know of a way to uninstall the clutch assembly without having to buy a special tool to do it?

It's BEST to buy the tool to do it...

Without the tool you can never properly torque the clutch back on.. You just beat it on and off with a hammer and screw driver (VERY ghetto)

Now I'm all for ghetto and cheap, hell I always just use a screw driver to beat the forks steering nut on..

But for a clutch, I'd recommend buying the tool!

But if you refuse to buy one.. A hammer + flat head can spin the nut on and off..

Just don't complain to anyone if anything goes wrong with your motor, or your clutch blows apart through your leg :applause: (not likely, but you can't be mad if it happens! lol)

edit: also for any flywheel work, I always recommend just getting the flywheel puller!

Not only if you bend your flywheel can and it will ruin your motor/the bearing inside.. But the flywheel could break at high rpm's, throwing shrapnel everywhere (YOUR LEG)

The flywheel puller runs about the same as the clutch socket, like $10-$15.. But the flywheel puller for a 50, works on MANY different bikes (yamaha blaster, Xt125/xt350, and MANY MANY MANY other bikes)

Good tool to have.. I bought mine for my 50, and realized it worked on 3 of my friends bikes/quads :)

Anyone know of a way to uninstall the clutch assembly without having to buy a special tool to do it?

I made my own with an extra socket I had lying around (Maybe 7/8" if I remember right...) and notched it to fit the nut nice and tight with a die grinder. Doesn't take that long but proceed slowly so you don't take off too much material too fast and make for a sloppy fit.

It's the same thing I did on the swingarm nut of the Shadow I used to have. That one ended up being an 1 1/8" socket I think. Luckily I have a box of old garage sale sockets I can butcher up for these purposes.

paul

Clutch spring install successful! I found the socket at a small parts shop in town for only$12. What has two thumbs and has a perma grin? This guy.

Clutch spring install successful! I found the socket at a small parts shop in town for only$12. What has two thumbs and has a perma grin? This guy.

Hahaha. Have fun out there.

I have the pit boss racing 88cc big bore kit and it came with piston, cylinder, and carb.. i cant figure out the jetting specs thhogh? do u guys have them?

We put the takegawa 88 kit on my sons 5o and it rips and figured use the stock clutch until it goes shit went in like 3 riding sessions so TB HD clutch was the must and for dirt we are running stock front sprocket and a 38T in the rear and it pulls with me on it at 230 lbs and my son is 7 and is only 87 lbs and he rips video coming soon

MY bother-in-laws we just changed the carb out to a mikuni 20mm carb but the only problem with the big bore kits is the fact your putting on a 50cc bottom end so it tends to put a lot of stress on the bottom half of the motor, my brother-in-laws blew out two clutches and then pushed the rod out the case, after that he got a china aluminum frame 3 valve, it now sits apart in the garage, but the 125cc bike with a loncin(!?!) motor he has now is wicked fast and has the bonus of a manual clutch (great in the corners and up hills) and 4 gears.

The best swap on a real crf 50I've seen yet was my other buddies CRF50 which took and ported and polished a XR70 head and put it with the XR 70 piston and cylinder on the crf50 motor w/ a big bore cam and a 20mm carb, this thing can do 50 to 55 mph with 3 gears and only 10" wheels running 14T or 16T sprocket in front and a 37T or 39T rear

Bore=width

stroke=depth

MY bother-in-laws we just changed the carb out to a mikuni 20mm carb but the only problem with the big bore kits is the fact your putting on a 50cc bottom end so it tends to put a lot of stress on the bottom half of the motor, my brother-in-laws blew out two clutches and then pushed the rod out the case, after that he got a china aluminum frame 3 valve, it now sits apart in the garage, but the 125cc bike with a loncin(!?!) motor he has now is wicked fast and has the bonus of a manual clutch (great in the corners and up hills) and 4 gears.

The best swap on a real crf 50I've seen yet was my other buddies CRF50 which took and ported and polished a XR70 head and put it with the XR 70 piston and cylinder on the crf50 motor w/ a big bore cam and a 20mm carb, this thing can do 50 to 55 mph with 3 gears and only 10" wheels running 14T or 16T sprocket in front and a 37T or 39T rear

the bottom end of these motors can handle a lot of stress, the stock crank is good for a 95cc big bore

Can even upgrade to a crf70 crank/rod assembly, as a 70 has a stronger rod

I have a stage 3 88cc kit on my 50 from honda trail bikes with a mild port job, with a 4 speed DRatv tranny, HD clutch, and a inner rotor kit. And I have 15-30 for street and 12-30 gearing for dirt, my bike RIPs for only being a 88cc. I'm 150pounds and love riding it. Wanting to soon upgrade to a 117 stroker, 24-26mm carb, and a manual clutch.. Can't wait!

some people DO have issues and bend or break rods, but many more people run up to 95cc just fine. Just curious when you say he blew the clutch out twice, did it just slip? Or did the clutch physically break and come apart?

I have heard of CAST clutches like the stock one grenading, and sometimes that can also cause rod or crank damage if hte clutch grenades. But USUALLY it's on bigger cc motors and/or motors running IRK kit

When I upgrade to a 117cc and manual clutch I'm going to be forced to get A Billet clutch basket =\

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