need place to rebuild engine

i just picked up a 2001 rm250 and over all its a nice bike. ported and polished engine and some other nice parts on it. but the engine needs rebuilt top to bottom. does anyone suggest a good shop for doing the entire rebuild. i can do all the mechanical work i just need the machine work done. also i live in west virginia does anyone know of one in my area. thanks

what do you mean machine work? If you can pull the motor and split the cases yourself, just order the top end kit, crank, main bearings, seals and a full gasket kit. check the tranny bearings and have some one with a press r/r the mains, usually a shop will do it for a 1/2hr of labor. my advice is to just order a complete OEM crank, its usually not much more when you consider buying the rod kit and having some one press and true it. If you do go the way of a rod kit, i would again advise stock. I'm not a big fan of hotrods cranks/rod kits. I've had about 4 break on me.

TravisK711, quick couple of question. Why do you recommend replacing the entire crank? How did you break the hotrods? What kind of riding do you do?

The reason I ask is simply because I ordered the Wiseco Connecting rod kit and after reading your post I'm wondering if I have made a mistake by ordering it.

Personally, I don't throw money at something unless it needs it. If the rod is wiggly and seemingly out of spec, pull it and measure it. Same with the crank. If they are out of spec they probably just need fresh bearings. Unless the crank is badly scored, milling is expensive, and/or oversize bearings aren't available, then look at a crank kit. Determine if the replacement cost is better than getting the old one fixed. Just my $.02.

Ive broke them in my 80's that were mod back in the day and in my mod 125s. the bottom part of the rod actually broke sending the rollers everywhere inside the cylinder, some actually past the piston and imbeding themselve in the head. With factory cranks, using the same oil (klotz super techniplate or R-50) we havent had one failure of the same degree yet. My 05 rm 250 finally went this past summer, flatening every roller in the connecting rod, but not coming apart. It was actually still running, just knocking really bad lol. The cases had never been split and the bike had well over 100hrs on it.

I race motocross in the A class and i seem to be rather hard on bikes, i rev them alot. just past experience has always brought me back to OEM parts for almost everything inside the motor and as far as bearings go throughout the chassis. Plus when you factor in the price for the rod kit, then having a shop press and true the crank you come out rather close price wise. If you go the way of the rod kit, i feel OEM is better because it was all made by the same company to fit the stuff that they have already made, less chance of a failure.

Uncle alpo & Travis,

Thanks for the info. I was looking at the crank after I got out of work today and it looks fine. There is some lateral play in the conn rod, which is the reason I decide to replace it with the wiseco kit. I didn't know how much play is within spec and the owners manuel didn't really help either. I posted a picture in my winter rebuild thread but didn't get a response. So I figure while every was apart might as well just replace it to be on the safe side. I rather not have to split the case and do the job twice.

I pretty much agree with you on oem parts being the way to go. Thats why most of the parts going into this rebuild were from the TT oem store. Aside from the crank and powder coating, I've done all the work to this bike. I wouldn't mine pressing the crank except I no longer have access to a hydrolic press. Which is one of the drawbacks of not being a mechanic anymore.

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