Just bought a 2004 WR 250

I went to try a 2004 WR 250 on some semi-technical stuff. Barely any jeep trail, mostly single track with a few solid rocky hill climbs, a few different types of terrain (pretty much whatever we can find in Arizona) and this bike just went through anything just like it was not there...

And now it is in my garage.

The after market parts are:

  • FMF pipe
  • FMF Turbine core 2 silencer
  • Carbon fiber pipe guard
  • Steahly flywheel weight (don't know what weight)
  • V Force reed cage
  • Cycra Pro Bend
  • 3.1 IMS tank

It had a plate (seller kept it) and can be make street legal easily in AZ.

No spooge whatsoever, except a little bit at the junction, around the rubber ring, and I rode it for 2 hours.

I have a few questions:

My current ride (the Husaberg) has Enzo subtanks. Would there be any benefit in installing them on the Husqy?

Can the stator be upgraded to support a DC circuit for a battery (for HID headlights, GPS and a blender).

Who do you recommend I order parts from? By that I mean regular factory and after market.

The seller included a Stealth Idle Adjustment screw that he did not have the time to install. It is true that the idle was a bit low to my taste and it seems that adjusting the idle is a bit of a pain and can't be done on the fly. Does anybody have any experience with the Stealth?

Does anybody make a tall foam seat for this bike?

What about a dual sport kit?

Finally there was a steering dampener from 2 owners ago, now all that rests is a mount that was welding on the frame (see photo below). What can fit there according to you?

steeringdampener.jpg

Thanks in advance!

Congrats on the new ride:ride: As far as parts... hall's cycles and motosportz are very good. Also check the important information sticky in the 4stroke forum..lots of info there.

A few people here have the stealth idle screw and love it..I need to get one.

I think guts racing makes a tall seat.

Adam

Thanks! I found out about Guts right after posting.

I also found out that the mount is a weld-on mount for a Scotts.

Besides the Scotts unit itself, what other parts seem to be needed on the picture?

Thanks a bunch!

To mount a steering damper, you will need a different top bar mount that the damper mounts to. Before you buy a Scotts, check out Motosportz.com & contact them about a complete damper & bar mount.

Almost forgot, for OEM parts & stator questions contact Tasky Cycle Metrics in Washington or Bill's Motorcycle Plus in Oregon. Both are top notch dealers know the brand well.

Has anybody installed Enzo subtanks on these forks?

If yes do they need to be drilled and tapped?

congrats lefrog - i will second the notion on taskys > very professional and knowledgeable. i had that exact same weld on tab on my old berg , i would sugest scrapping it .... unless you have a scotts damper laying around , cost and performance wise you would be better off with the Motosportz unit . dont know as to the sub tanks, enzo should be able to tell you what is needed for the marzochi fork. looks like you have the big tank which is a must out west . i think (as i was a big berg fan until i bought my wr ) that your bergin days are over .....

Well, I saw these dampers selling for $200 used on eBay, with the extra hardware if would be around $250. I don't know much about Motorsportz but it does not seem there are a lot of second hands dampers around. I do not intend to spend close to $500 on a damper otherwise...

But I will keep your suggestion in mind!

I converted my -07 to DC, i think its the same system on a -04(kokusan)

You have to make a new ground-wire from the stator(separate the ground from stator)

I used a Trailtech reg/rectifier, replace the stock regulator.

connect the yellow wire and the new ground wire from the stator to the two yellow wires on the rectifier, the red wire from rectifier goes to battery(+) and to the wire where the power from stator used to be connected, black wire from rectifier goes to battery(-) and to chassi, the trailtech has a blue wire also but you can leave that isolated.

You can use two 35w HID, i recommend one on the helmet and one on the bike.

I hope this will help

/Perra

I converted my -07 to DC, i think its the same system on a -04(kokusan)

You have to make a new ground-wire from the stator(separate the ground from stator)

I used a Trailtech reg/rectifier, replace the stock regulator.

connect the yellow wire and the new ground wire from the stator to the two yellow wires on the rectifier, the red wire from rectifier goes to battery(+) and to the wire where the power from stator used to be connected, black wire from rectifier goes to battery(-) and to chassi, the trailtech has a blue wire also but you can leave that isolated.

You can use two 35w HID, i recommend one on the helmet and one on the bike.

I hope this will help

/Perra

I hope you are aware the stator does not have a ground, right?

At least on the 2004, it has only one yellow, and two blue (one lighter) going to the CDI, which has one pos to the coil, and one ground to the coil (which somehow on this bike includes the mother of all grounds -aka MOAG).

The yellow wire splits to the front and the rear. While the rear yellow only connects to the red light (actually on mine the former owner added a brake switch to make it Arizona legal), the front yellow splits to connect the regulator (grounded by the mere fact that it touches the frame) and the head light. The NEG from the headlight simply runs back to the under-tank where it connects to the MOAG.

With the Trailtech rectifier, I would have to exclusively route the yellow to the said rectifier, then red from the battery to the POS of all the lights, horns, GPS and blenders, black to POS (not ground). Smaller battery: blue wire from rectifier to battery and black to NEG (not ground).

What charge can I really expect from this stator / rectifier assembly? I don't think this will handle more than 10A, but I can't tell before I have it set up and with the engine running.

I hope you are aware the stator does not have a ground, right?

Yes, that´s why you have to make a new ground-wire from stator.

(its grounded with one of the screw that holds the stator)

At first i connected everything, kind of what you did, and it worked..

but i could only load about 50w, then i connected it as i explained, with the "new" ground-wire, now i can load it about 80-90w

Yes, that´s why you have to make a new ground-wire from stator.

(its grounded with one of the screw that holds the stator)

At first i connected everything, kind of what you did, and it worked..

but i could only load about 50w, then i connected it as i explained, with the "new" ground-wire, now i can load it about 80-90w

Well, then, I will try that and let you know.

Of the two blue wires that go into the CDI, which one is the trigger and which one is the POS?

Sorry, dont know

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