Bought a new '05...Thanks!

To all those guys who have '05-'06's and have been giving advice and letting us know how well their bikes perform and for keeping the Suzuki bashers away I wanted to say "THANKS!!"

I have wanted an RM-Z for a long time, and finally bought a BRAND NEW 2005 on Saturday. Got a killer deal and am very excited, and it will be a great addition to my stable. I went in with the understanding that I have to keep an eye on the crank and will be prepared to replace it at 60 hrs +/- a few hours IF NEED BE. I am like a factory mechanic when it comes to maintaining my rides, and very particular, so we should be fine. I haven't even ridden her yet, but I already feel as if this may be THE best bike I've owned so far. This is the start of a great relationship!:applause:

140+ hours on my "05". Just routine maintenance. Cam chain adjust is a big one. I haven't even had my valve cover off yet. I use one of my wife's plastic chop sticks down the spark plug hole to fine TDC on the compression stroke.

Congrats and good luck!

Enjoy.

Get some Pro Taper bars, I couldnt believe how much better they were.

Enjoy.

Get some Pro Taper bars, I couldnt believe how much better they were.

Really? Personally, I love the Renthals that came stock. Though I would probably rather have the TAG bars I had on my CRF250.

140+ hours on my "05". Just routine maintenance. Cam chain adjust is a big one. I haven't even had my valve cover off yet. I use one of my wife's plastic chop sticks down the spark plug hole to fine TDC on the compression stroke.

Congrats and good luck!

So you obviously havent checked your valve clearences in all that time :applause:

I liked the Renthal as well, I ran them for three years. Maybe they just wore out. The Pro Taper just seemed to give better isolation and felt less harsh to me. I did use new grips when I did the bar swap... Have you tried the ProTapers sp1tekiller?

///ALERT///

Put the chop stix down and check your valve clearance.

\\\ALERT\\\

So you obviously havent checked your valve clearences in all that time :applause:
Not yet! It's been running fine right out of the box for the last three years. No clacking or ticking from the top end to indicate increasing tolerances just the usual cam chain noise at idle. Still makes plenty of power and no blue smoke so the valves are still seating and the valve guides are good. If it still makes power, no blue smoke, then the piston and rings are probably still in spec too! If the valves were way to tight from the factory something would have burned by now. I've never seen anything unusual in the oil or filter to indicate anything is wrong with the bike. Guess me and my chopstick are just lucky so far?

If I was racing as a professional and trying to make a living at it then I would change the piston and rings every 12 hours like the manual states.

Not yet! It's been running fine right out of the box for the last three years. No clacking or ticking from the top end to indicate increasing tolerances just the usual cam chain noise at idle. Still makes plenty of power and no blue smoke so the valves are still seating and the valve guides are good. If it still makes power, no blue smoke, then the piston and rings are probably still in spec too! If the valves were way to tight from the factory something would have burned by now. I've never seen anything unusual in the oil or filter to indicate anything is wrong with the bike. Guess me and my chopstick are just lucky so far?

If I was racing as a professional and trying to make a living at it then I would change the piston and rings every 12 hours like the manual states.

It might seem like its running fine to you but you could be losing power or compression and not even realising it if your valve clearances are out. Also you could grenade your motor if you get valve bounce if your clearances are out.

Its a very expensive mistake not to be doing. Again - how can you be sure you are getting the most out of your bike. To check your clearances takes nothing more than taking off the top cover and using a feeler guage, its only if you need to make adjustments do you need to pull off the cams.

It might seem like its running fine to you but you could be losing power or compression and not even realising it if your valve clearances are out. Also you could grenade your motor if you get valve bounce if your clearances are out.

Its a very expensive mistake not to be doing. Again - how can you be sure you are getting the most out of your bike. To check your clearances takes nothing more than taking off the top cover and using a feeler guage, its only if you need to make adjustments do you need to pull off the cams.

A compression or leak down test can tell you if your engine is capable of making rated power without having to do much more than remove the spark plug. Valve bounce or float as we call it here is primarily a function of spring rate, cam profile, the mass of the moving parts and RPM's. Valve clearance effecting float is negligible when other performance indicators are taken into consideration. If you're not checking the valve springs in a spring rate tester you will have no way to predict at what RPM valve float will occur based on other design factor calculations. If the valve clearance has gotten loose to the point of hammering parts and effecting performance you're going to hear it especially at low RPM's. The real danger is if the valves are to tight. The valve is not on the seat long enough for proper cooling and a burn't valve usually results. My "05" has a rev limit and I've only tested it a few times by accident. Because of the rev limit it is doubtful that I have stretched a valve stem to the point that it's going to burn or is significantly out of spec.

I'm not disagreeing with your statement to check valve clearances especially when new to make sure the factory set things up right if you're concerned about it! The clearances will probably be very tight and if they're a couple of thousands too tight they'll be perfect after some nice easy break-in.

Everyone has a different comfort level and what they think is of importance when it comes to their machines. I understand your concern.

+140 hours on mine with just routine maintenance; front end still comes up in any gear with just a crack of the throttle. I haven't done a compression test yet but it's probably overdue. Suzuki rules!

2 of mine were out of spec from the factory, but it ran great. Even better when I got them in spec. One more adjustment over the next three years, then one of the intakes moved ALOT quickly and damaged a bucket between checks.

2 of mine were out of spec from the factory, but it ran great. Even better when I got them in spec. One more adjustment over the next three years, then one of the intakes moved ALOT quickly and damaged a bucket between checks.
After inspection/repair did you notice anything that may have been oil related or was it just metal fatigue? Do you think something happened to the valve first even though the clearances were good the last time you checked or was it the tappet or maybe a weak or collasped valve spring? It sounds like you were inside the valve cover from time to time and trying to do things right. Was there any performance issues before you discovered the problem?
A compression or leak down test can tell you if your engine is capable of making rated power without having to do much more than remove the spark plug. Valve bounce or float as we call it here is primarily a function of spring rate, cam profile, the mass of the moving parts and RPM's. Valve clearance effecting float is negligible when other performance indicators are taken into consideration. If you're not checking the valve springs in a spring rate tester you will have no way to predict at what RPM valve float will occur based on other design factor calculations. If the valve clearance has gotten loose to the point of hammering parts and effecting performance you're going to hear it especially at low RPM's. The real danger is if the valves are to tight. The valve is not on the seat long enough for proper cooling and a burn't valve usually results. My "05" has a rev limit and I've only tested it a few times by accident. Because of the rev limit it is doubtful that I have stretched a valve stem to the point that it's going to burn or is significantly out of spec.

I'm not disagreeing with your statement to check valve clearances especially when new to make sure the factory set things up right if you're concerned about it! The clearances will probably be very tight and if they're a couple of thousands too tight they'll be perfect after some nice easy break-in.

Everyone has a different comfort level and what they think is of importance when it comes to their machines. I understand your concern.

+140 hours on mine with just routine maintenance; front end still comes up in any gear with just a crack of the throttle. I haven't done a compression test yet but it's probably overdue. Suzuki rules!

To say the least you have been a bit lucky in my opinion. I dont know how many hours mine has on it but its much less than 140, probably more in the region of 80-100 and I lost compression at around 70 or so, so needed to clean valves/head/seats/hone cylinder/replace rings. Not a big deal but still something that needed doing.

So I am surprised that you and your chopstick have made it so far :applause:

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