Battery question

My bike has problems with starting with the e-start. It's been happening for a while, so I've just been kickstarting the bike. I charged the battery overnight and the e-start worked great... for about a week. In that week I put new blinkers on and an LED license plate illuminator; I used the battery a lot during the week so it's no surprise the battery was weak. I went to start the bike and it cranked over a couple times then just clicked. I can kick start it no problem. When I ride it for an hour or so it'll start up a 1-2 times with the e-start, but then will just click like the battery is dead. This tells me the charging system is doing it's job... well, for the most part. At idle the bike charges at 13.8v, and at 5krpm it's just over 14v.

Tonight I went out and bought a battery tender (not that brand, but a similar brand). I hooked it up to the bike and let it charge. After about 5min of charging it said the battery was charged. I confirmed with a multimeter and it was at 12.87v. I hit the e-start and only got 2-3 cranks and then clicks. I tested with the multimeter and it showed 12.6v. Then I hooked up the multimeter to the battery and hit the e-start... the battery goes to ~0volts as it attempts to start. Funny thing is, when you let the battery sit for a minute or so it goes back up to 12.6v. Try to start it off the 12.6v and it only clicks.

You think I need a new battery?

If not, any ideas?

Yeah it sounds to me like you need a new battery, The amperage it takes to run the multimeter is nill compared to the 20 amps for the starter, Have you checked the acid levels in teh battery? are they topped up with distilled water to the line? One low cell can create a short if there si not enough water this would hold some current till it got hot from being used then be usless, cool down and be good to go. Your charging system is working or the bike wouldn't start from the kick and the lights and stuff would not function when running... I say new battery.. also How old is the battery? In my experience with atvs and snow machines a battery is only good for 2 to 3 years if you don't use the machine all the time. and the first time you leave th lights and let the battery totally drain you cut its storage capacity in half. and it seems like 1/2 again the next time. If you keep it on a battery buddie or ride it alot and never totally discharge them they seem to last for forever..

you got a battery buddie now go spend the money and get a new battery, it sux but whatever... do it then get to riding...... RIDE SAFE...... and don't foget to turn the key off.... lol

Does the led tag illuminator stay on???

I agree with poakone, sounds like your battery is going south. My 04 is cranking slower all the time, it has the orignal battery.

The tag illuminator comes on with the tail light. It's off when the bike is off.

It's the original battery. The bike has 200 miles on it since being bought in 05. So it sat a lot with the previous owner. I'm going to check the water level and check prices on a new battery.

If the previous owner didn't use the bike much and didn't have a battery tender on it, then I can guarantee your battery is near dead - batteries don't like to just sit and do nothing, a battery tender creates an environment similar to that of regular usage to keep the battery fresh and ready.

My wife's bike sat for the closer part of a year right before she bought it, it just barely started the day we bought it, she rode it a lot for about a week with no problems, then it sat for 2 weeks while we were away and the next time she went to use it it was dead, now, I can charge it and it'll start fine, but anything beyond a week and the battery is near dead - it also cranks slower and slower.

Come spring she's getting a new battery, already picked up the tender.

Is there a "light" version of this battery or do you have to buy the stock one?:applause:

Is there a "light" version of this battery or do you have to buy the stock one?:applause:

check with your local battery guy and he can probably order you one much cheaper than the dealer

Get your voltmeter back out. Record the voltage after removing the charger, it should be higher than 12.00V. Then, press the e-start button, and record how low the battery drops to. You'll probably see the battery drops below 6V, which is not enough.

New battery and all is fixed.

I knew that would work. A fully charged battery should be over 14 volts and its not uncommon to get no start with only 12 volts.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now