My new to me DR650

This thing is a hoot, Bone stock what should I do first :thumbsup:

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The absolute 1st thing I would do is replace the stock handlebars with stronger ones and add a skid plate and handguards. Next, I'd replace the stock carb with an FCR-MX carb. modified by "mx rob". It's not cheap but it's worth the price and will increase the fun factor two-fold.

Put some K's on it (miles for you guy's) then start reading:thumbsup:

I had one and the first thing you need to do is get rid of it and buy a real off/on road dirt bike. Not to be mean but if you are to keep it you will need to change out the following.

Front Suspension $900.00

Back Suspension $250

Tank $250

Bars $100

Tires $200

Full Exhaust System $900

Air Filter $50

Jetting $50

Modified Front / Back Light $400

My buddy works for Taxxion Dynamics so I have the suspension covered. Im looking into a tank not that I need the extra fuel but I dont want to trash the stock tank. I will replace the bars and put some real hand gaurds on it. Most of my commuting will be in the 60-70mph range what gearing would you guys suggest?

And what do you suggest is a real on/off bike?:thumbsup:

I had one and the first thing you need to do is get rid of it and buy a real off/on road dirt bike. Not to be mean but if you are to keep it you will need to change out the following.

Front Suspension $900.00

Back Suspension $250

Tank $250

Bars $100

Tires $200

Full Exhaust System $900

Air Filter $50

Jetting $50

Modified Front / Back Light $400

The guy (or gal?) wasn't asking for this information and already made it clear that they like the bike. :thumbsup:

Now that that is out of the way, what kind of riding will you be doing with the bike? It will be easier to give advice based on how you plan on using it. I personally think that the Dynojet kit and airbox mod (about $50) is the single best bang for the buck upgrade that you can do for the bike. Some people are quite happy with it in stock form though.

ride the heck outta it then you'll have a good feel for what you think needs changed

Thanks for all the input guys. This bike for me will be 75/25 road. I race with WERA so I get my speed fix there. I think it fine stock motor wise but Im all for letting it breath better so maybe weld grind, slip on, air box and jet kit for now. The stock bars seem fine, do they bend easy? I will have a skid plate on the way Monday.

Ditch the deathwings

For commuting, I would leave the gearing stock. Seems to be a good compromise. Where in GA are you? I'm in the Covington area.

Athens GA

I was premature to say get rid of the bike but if you are riding 75 street/25 dirt. Free up the exhaust (Yoshimura makes a great exhaust system) and modify the air intake with jetting and it will just about double the power this bike can have. If you like the bars keep them. Check out Dunlap's new on/off road tires. They look and ride like off road tires but are DOT certified.

This bike will be trouble free for the next 50,000 miles. Keep oil and filters clean and you can circle the world three times -all trouble free.

Have fun, be safe and keep thumpering.

Arnie L.

Thanks guys I really hate to scrap the tires on it because they are new but are they really that bad? I road race, tires cost me $340 a weakend but I rather buy them than lay the bike down because Im too damn cheap. So if new tires are in order then I'll get em.

No they aren't that bad. They are actually very good on pavement. But just be careful in wet grass and the like. If I was you I would get the use out of them.

arnoldlatzke, $900 for a complete exhaust and $900 for suspension, what are you smoking. I got a 2 Brothers exhaust with mid-pipe off of eBay for $26, and the shipping was $13. No, it wasn't ragged out either. It had less than 500 miles on it. You could run your finger around the inside of the mid-pipe and only pick up a little bit of soot on your finger. Also, you can call Jesse and spend less than half of what you quoted for front and rear springs that will improve the ride quality. The stock tires on the big Suzi work great on paved surfaces. I was amazed at the traction they provide. They work okay on dirt roads and hard packed surfaces. However, they are squirrelly on gravel roads. They tend to wand all over the place, and you really have to concentrate on where you are pointed. I wouldn't want to try them in sand or other gnarly offroad conditions. They don't call them "deathwings" for no reason. Also, they don't inspire much confidence on wet pavement either. Like I said though, if the pavement is dry, they are suprisingly competent street tires. They also howl like an all terrain truck tire until the wind noise blocks out the sound!

Hey neighbor, I'm just down the road in Dacula. :thumbsup:

The big DR is not a dirt bike. If you want a dirt bike then you'll be disappointed with the DR regardless of the mods. However, if you want a great, do it all bike, that can be fun on the road and off the road then, IMO, you'll be hard pressed to find a better bike than the DR. I've been riding/racing, mainly offroad, for ~40 years and the DR is one of the most enjoyable rides I've owned.

The stock tires are fine as long as you're not trying to ride race pace off road. Air them down to ~15-17psi and they'll work fine off road in everything but slick, sticky, mud. On the road, with your WERA experience, you shouldn't have any problem dragging the pegs. I usually run 26-28psi on the road. They do wear out pretty quick. I'm usually down to ~1/16" tread at ~1500 miles on a rear and ~ 3500 miles on a front.

By far the best ~$70 I've ever spent on ANY bike I've owned was the DJ kit. Does it get you the performance of a good pumper carb? No, but it does make for a very noticeable improvement in performance. Jetted properly I still get 50-52 mpg. I opened the airbox per Jesse's instructions but didn't drill the slide as recommended. Since the stock BST carb is vacuum operated and doesn't have an accelerator pump I didn't want to do anything to make the slide move faster and possibly create a lean bog when opening the throttle. I replaceed the stock air filter with a TwinAir.

The header weld was a freebie mod (except for the cost of a couple of carbide cutters) and definitely made my bike more responsive to the throttle. I've witnessed way too many riding opportunities vanish due to excessive noise so I'm not a big fan of aftermarket exhaust on any bike that is going to be ridden on public roads/land. I run aftermarket exhaust on my closed course race bike but not on the DR. Now if a manufacturer will design an exhaust that will be lighter, flow better, and not be louder than 88-90dB I might open my wallet.

I weigh ~195# and changed the front and rear springs to stiffer Eibachs. The springs make the bike ride much higher in the stroke and really improve the ride both on and off the road. As exected the heavier springs overpower the rebound damping available from the the fork and shock so my next planned mod is some emulators in the fornt forks and revalving of the rear shock.

I've also switched to a 14T CS sprocket. The bike still cruises easy at 70mph and gas mileage didn't suffer measureably.

Other mods I've done that don't really affect performance are -

Cut down width of the stock bars, added "bark busters" and heated grips.

I've got a small MRA windscreen that I run if my ride is going to be more than 50% street.

Utah Sports skid plate. Make sure you get one with a drain plug access hole.

Great info svwayne I cant wait to throw some mods on it. Sounds like if I set up the bike like yours I would be more than happy. I guess its off to the bike shop to drop some coin :thumbsup:

if you are going to be going off road at all i seriously recomend upgrading your tires, those things are nasty bad on anything other than pavement.

JC

sort out the bst carb first. just add the #4 washer to raise the the needle, remove the snorkel, drill out the idle screw plug and adjust the idle screw. thats less than a dollar and a huge improvement in smoothness. measure your mileage and go from there.

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