Rev boxes, Good idea/Bad idea?

I have seen rev boxes on American ebay. They seem to replace the cdi/ecu/whatever they are called and it allows the engine to get 3000rpm more (or near enough). Good idea? Has anyone got one fitted?

Most are junk,do not start, or start well, do not rev to the advertised RPM, run poorly.

No stock DRZ can use the extra RPM's, and most modified ones are not making extra power above 8K or so.. The over rev is useable in some conditions, but few. Spinning a DRZ motor above the stock RPM limit requires valve train mods in the least.

Most are junk,do not start, or start well, do not rev to the advertised RPM, run poorly.

No stock DRZ can use the extra RPM's, and most modified ones are not making extra power above 8K or so.. The over rev is useable in some conditions, but few. Spinning a DRZ motor above the stock RPM limit requires valve train mods in the least.

+1 junk, save your money

Ideal, I thought as much. Cheers guys

If you have a European S or SM it does make sense, as they changed the mapping in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear in order to reduce noice.

It would be best (savest) if you would switch to an E or K CDI.

Revboxes sold on eBay are 99% Procom Junk, sometimes under a different label.

I'm one of the few people who had 'luck' with the Procom; I had to send it back to the USA for three times in a row, until I received one with a serial no which I didn't receive before:

PE-C-MS/K400-A-HI

Stay away from the rest as they will NOT work!

Make sure you read the instructions coming with the CDI.

Good luck.

I have seen rev boxes on American ebay. They seem to replace the cdi/ecu/whatever they are called and it allows the engine to get 3000rpm more (or near enough). Good idea? Has anyone got one fitted?
PE-C-MS/K400-A-HI

wanna buy one that has a misfire at 8k rpm?

this is the yosh box number.they are just as prone to issues.

Mine that is labeled yosh is a pos that misses as well. Never got them to honor their screw up. I do have one of the testers they shipped out that I really like, it never did make it to production as far as I know, which is just as well because I know of at least one other drz that wouldn't be started with it and I think there is a second one too. Mine starts with it kind of begrudgingly but once running it has a mid and top end that is much stronger than the stock E that I have. I'll never pay for another product made by procomm that is for sure, no matter whose name is on it.

Once in a blue moon an older Yosh box by Mitsubishi appears on Ebay but these are few and far between... The rest just spell trouble...

Thanks but no Eddie.

I had several version with a misfire, but I estimated it was at 6k.

I don't trust the Procomm; when I go abroad I'll always bring the Mithsibishu in my toolbox:ride:

wanna buy one that has a misfire at 8k rpm?

If you have a European S or SM it does make sense, as they changed the mapping in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear in order to reduce noice.

It would be best (savest) if you would switch to an E or K CDI.

Good luck.

Would this make much difference? What exactly is an e or a k cdi? Sorry, I'm not really up on electrics

Would this make much difference? What exactly is an e or a k cdi? Sorry, I'm not really up on electrics

The only difference between the S/SM and E/K (thats model of bike) is the RPM limit.. E (dirt only version) and K (kick start only dirt version no longer sold) has a 500 higher RPM limit. No difference in ignition map.

CDI with a different ignition map made for a region has been stated a few times, Noppy,, do you have a special part number for this Eu region part? I'm not seeing it in any parts book I can view.....And PROCOMM says they are all the same,, they have made different maps,,,, but, not for different markets,, just different runs of production. I'm not sure where this information comes from ????? Word of mouth? or manufacturing data from OEM or aftermarket source? .

71 = K model

72 = E model

73 = EU SM

75 = S/SM model

taken from this thread

There is a difference in part numbers, initially we put it down to EU pollution stuff. Could a remapped CDI also help with pollution stuff?

The only difference between the S/SM and E/K (thats model of bike) is the RPM limit.. E (dirt only version) and K (kick start only dirt version no longer sold) has a 500 higher RPM limit. No difference in ignition map.

CDI with a different ignition map made for a region has been stated a few times, Noppy,, do you have a special part number for this Eu region part? I'm not seeing it in any parts book I can view.....And PROCOMM says they are all the same,, they have made different maps,,,, but, not for different markets,, just different runs of production. I'm not sure where this information comes from ????? Word of mouth? or manufacturing data from OEM or aftermarket source? .

Cheers, Its not really worth getting it for 500 extra rpm

Cheers, Its not really worth getting it for 500 extra rpm

It is if you want to pick up a second cdi so you have a back up. I have a couple of them.

Cheers, Its not really worth getting it for 500 extra rpm

You will hardly use the extra rpm's. It is the extra torque you will notice all the time.

I suspect that the quality between the batches produced is very (Chinese) different each time.

I guess I was lucky:ride:

It is if you want to pick up a second cdi so you have a back up. I have a couple of them.

As do I... one Procomm holds the garage door open, one helps to level a set of shelves, one makes a nice chock block for the pressure washer:p

There is a difference in part numbers, initially we put it down to EU pollution stuff. Could a remapped CDI also help with pollution stuff?

No, but noise is environmental to some people:blah:

It is if you want to pick up a second cdi so you have a back up. I have a couple of them.

Go on then, How much with postage to the uk? cheers

Not selling my cdi's right now, only have one that I totally trust (the stock one). The yosh badged procomm is OK with just a slight miss between 8-9k according to the dyno my bike was on, and the other one I have is a non-production unit that has shown to not start every bike, just certain ones:excuseme:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now