Project: CRF230 11:1 Wiseco Piston/Cam

I've finally decided to do it, I'll be running a 11:1 High-Comp Wiseco Piston and "Coeshow" Cam pretty soon along with titanium valve springs/retainers and new rockers. Also getting new sprockets, going Renthal rear. Friday night I removed the motor from the frame and took the cylinder off. All in all it went pretty fast. Definetly have a better understanding of how a motor works. I'll be sending my head to Coeshow next week and he'll get it setup for me. He figured my motor will be running at right about 23 HP. This should be a nice little boost, I'm guestimating that I'm running with 18 or so right now. I'm wide open to any advice from anyone who has done this already.

I'll keep you guys up to date.

-Matt:thumbsup:

BTW, can someone give me a write up of how to get the timing chain setup properly. I'm gonna have to set all of that. When I took my head off, my timing chain was awful tight, are they supposed to be that tight? The cam wouldn't even sit right without compressing the head and tightening the bolts and what not. I might just end up ordering a service manual.

-Matt

A service manual will make the job much easier and faster.

An XR250 carb would go nicely with the other mods.

I just picked on up off of ebay. You have to put in all the variables Like this:

honda CRF230F CRF 230 f CRF230 CRF 230F service manual repair manual etc. Try them seperate try them together. I was out bid at 33.00/10.00 ship and did another surch, found it for buy it now 24.99 and 4.00 shipping. It came and its brand new in the wrapper 03 to 06.

let me know how you like this set-up matt

i have the piston, still need to do the cam, but i cant put that investment down right now, just need to know if im gonna do it later :thumbsup:

I wish I can get any mods other than a UNI airfilter.

buddy1901, yeah I'll let you know. I'm thinking I'll do like a 3 day delivery, I'm too exited to get this thing back togther. Hope it doesn't take to long in it's make over in California...lol.

The thing that worries me the most is to get the timing correct. Think I need to take the fly wheel off. For example, lets say I have the timing off by one tooth. Is it gonna be obvious that I have it incorrect? Laying down this kind of cash I don't want to risk having anything wrong.

-Matt

I heard there might be marks or something on the fly if the timing is off.

Well, there should be marks on the gear that runs the timing chain off the crank. Just like there was marks on the gear off the cam. What to line them up on though I don't know. I'm gonna order a service manual. Overall, I'd say this is a fairy simple job. I would feel safer with a manual. Getting the new piston in the cylinder will be a bit of a chore too. I'll have to get a ring compressor for that. I've got over a month before I can start riding again anyways, so I have more than enough time to get this project figured out.

-Matt

why do you have over a month before you can start riding did you get injured or something.

Well, there should be marks on the gear that runs the timing chain off the crank. Just like there was marks on the gear off the cam. What to line them up on though I don't know. I'm gonna order a service manual. Overall, I'd say this is a fairy simple job. I would feel safer with a manual. Getting the new piston in the cylinder will be a bit of a chore too. I'll have to get a ring compressor for that. I've got over a month before I can start riding again anyways, so I have more than enough time to get this project figured out.

-Matt

well, my friend put his car engine back together and he didnt put the auto tensioner on before setting the timing, ended up one tooth off.

totaled the whole driver's side of the V8, punched holed through pistons, bent valves, snapped valves, scored the cyl. walls.

and it didnt even start..

that was just from attempting to start it lol!

im going to my other house today, ill get my service manual and PM you the info.

and im not sure about the rings, i dont remember reading anything about that in the manual, ill know for sure tonight, if i get a chance to use my scanner ill send it to ya, but dont tell honda :thumbsup:

why do you have over a month before you can start riding did you get injured or something.

I live in Saskatchewan, Canada. Meaning, in the fields and trails there is a couple feet of snow. The snow has basically just begun to melt. I normally won't get out into the fields until the end of April or even May. I started this project so early just to have it done by then. I don't expect to have this project done till the end of April due to the shipping time. We'll see, maybe this will come together sooner than I thought. Once I have my stuff it should take one Friday after school.

-Matt

mike is setting me up with the same setup i think except mine will be running pump gas. i have a new front and rear end suspension coming in this week and i think i will be doing it all at the same time, i just wonder if this is something i can do at home. i have access to most tools(i am a fulltime gm tech) and i will get a service manual , but do you know if there is anything special needed other than just r&r'ing parts with coeshow's parts?

thanks mikemassey

mike is setting me up with the same setup i think except mine will be running pump gas. i have a new front and rear end suspension coming in this week and i think i will be doing it all at the same time, i just wonder if this is something i can do at home. i have access to most tools(i am a fulltime gm tech) and i will get a service manual , but do you know if there is anything special needed other than just r&r'ing parts with coeshow's parts?

thanks mikemassey

Mike is installing the head components for me, ie. (retainers/springs/rockers). Otherwise I'm doing the rest myself. Honestly, when I took it apart on Friday I was surprised how simple everything was. I can do it myself. I just didn't have the proper tools for the valve springs. If your a GM mechanic you'll surely be able to do this. From what I could tell, there were no special out of the ordinary tools needed other than to change the valve springs. My dad has tons of tools, but they are too big for small engines. All we have is tools big that are used on our tractors and heavy equipment.

Hope I could somewhat help you.

-Matt:thumbsup:

thanks.

I've finally decided to do it, I'll be running a 11:1 High-Comp Wiseco Piston and "Coeshow" Cam pretty soon along with titanium valve springs/retainers and new rockers. Also getting new sprockets, going Renthal rear. Friday night I removed the motor from the frame and took the cylinder off. All in all it went pretty fast. Definetly have a better understanding of how a motor works. I'll be sending my head to Coeshow next week and he'll get it setup for me. He figured my motor will be running at right about 23 HP. This should be a nice little boost, I'm guestimating that I'm running with 18 or so right now. I'm wide open to any advice from anyone who has done this already.

I'll keep you guys up to date.

-Matt:thumbsup:

23 horspower may be a little optimistic without a big carb and a bit of porting work. Do you have a dyno for these numbers.

mike told me the same number 22-23 hp.

In regards to the service manual, i got a 2003-2004 one for really cheap, the guy said he had a 2006 and wanted the right year. I thought to myself, the 230 wasn't changed from 2003-2007 lol, so i jumped on it, think it was like 10$ shipping and all. Good luck:thumbsup:

23 horspower may be a little optimistic without a big carb and a bit of porting work. Do you have a dyno for these numbers.

I did say "he" figured my bike will be running right at about 23 Hp. Do you have dyno's to prove otherwise? I don't have one, you should consult Coeshow, not me.

-Matt

I have never seen any info to say it's not possible. Just going from other info Iv'e seen.

The sheet says this bike has 30mm carb and is bored to 250cc with 11.5 comp. and it just squeeks out 23 horpower. But it's the only dyno run on a modded 230 that I have seen.

You are going to love whatever power you get. I have spent a lot of time riding a 230 modded motor in a 150F frame and it is a total blast.

Take a look.

http://xr100.com/dyno.htm#2004%20CRF230%20with%20an%20EO%20250cc%20big%20bore%20kit

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By H0ndaHunter
      Hello all,
      I have a 2005 crf230f im wanting to modify my bike as best as possible for a sumo style bike. My first thought was an engine swap.
      Has anyone done an engine swap on this bike before? If noone has what engine would be the best fit to do so?
      The 230cc engine desnt have enough umph to really be a daily driving unless taking backstreets all the way to work so im trying to see what i can do to make it have the umph.
      Some of the mods ive done include the airbox mod, a lighting kit, sprocket change (i believe i have a 42 and 13 but cant rememebr), and a jetting mod where my dad took the stock jets and drilled it out just significantly enough to make her kick as much as she can.
      Im looking at doing handlebar risers, an airbox mod on the right side of the bike for even more airflow, cr500 shock if possible. 
      I am absolutely in love with the turning radius and nimbleness this bike has. I have ridden my dads BRP and my brothers crf450r and they just cant skirt around the world like my bike can so im trying to get the power (hopefully) of a bigger bike in the body of my bike. 
      Im not looking to have to completely tear the bike down to modify the bike, but if need i can make it happen. Before i am forced to modify the frame to accept another engine, are there any straight swaps that can happen? Are there any other performance mods that can be done to get that speed a little higher without sacrificing too much reliability?
    • By JMD984
      I have an 03 CRF150F that has a pretty bad wobble in the front wheel.  It has the OEM rim on it, 19x1.40 w/36 spokes.  For some reason, Honda is REALLY proud of their CRF150F rims, and want $125 for a new one.  However, the same size front rim from an XR/CRF100 or CRF125F are only $25-$30.  I realize that the spoke/nipple sizes are different, but is there any reason I couldn't use an XR100 rim and lace it with CRF150F spokes if I drilled the holes out larger?  Could nipple size be an issue?  Center well depth?
      I'm not looking for weight savings, or bling, just a straight wheel assembly.
      Or, if nobody knows the drop-in capability, I sure could use a lesson in spoked wheel compatability.  Does anyone know a good site for learning what features really matter when trying to swap rims?
      Thanks for the insight in advance.
    • By ccasey75
      Looking for BBR upgrades for 2006 CRF230F including the following:
      Heavy fork springs
      Heavy shock spring
      BBR Triple Clamp
      BBR Linkage
      Shock upgrade
      Let me know if what you have and how much you want!!
    • By Christo6060
      They will fit with some modification I did it on my bike 2007. The 2015 through 17 has an extra mounting hole on the tank and shroud so I cut the threads off an extra mounting screw and superglued it in that hole giving it a more authentic look. Except I didn’t use enough glue on the right side and the screw fell out. I had to use spacers on the front mount. And drill a new hole on the original tank mount but that doesn’t effect the original shrouds mounting. And a new hole on the new shroud. The new shrouds also sat correctly against the tank not affecting the seats look. Pictured is the two shrouds next to each other and the bike with the original shrouds. Also pictured is the listing for the shrouds and I only  spent $30 AUD on the OEM shrouds which were listed at $35 after my offer was accepted. They came with new hardware. And it was well worth it. I hope this post was worth the time😂.










    • By Fisforfun
      SOLVED*** No timing issue, just had trouble lining up TDC  Going to rebuild top end to fix low compression. Thanks for the help TT
      So I bought my 2003 crf230f a few months ago from a friend. The bike has definitely been ridden, and was blowing a little bit of smoke when I bought it so I knew the rings would be toast sooner or later. After a basic tune-up the bike ran really strong and I continued to ride it a few times a week for a couple months with no problems... Until last week when I was riding and it died on me. At the moment when the bike died, I was coasting down a hill so there was no extra stress on the engine, I just noticed the engine shut off- almost like running out of gas.
      From that moment on, the bike would not start so I towed it home and checked the essentials... Air, Fuel, Spark, Compression.
      Air- The new air filter I installed when I bought the bike was already covered in dust, so its possible the piston rings got even more dusted. I cleaned and oiled the filter anyway (the bike wouldn't start with the filter removed).
      Fuel- I recently changed my jetting to Mike Coe specs, and installed a larger pilot jet to eliminate popping on deceleration. The bike ran great with the new jetting and I know the carb is clean. I went ahead and cleaned out the gas tank and fuel lines and cleaned out the carb yet again.
      Spark- Spark plug was white due to running lean before I changed the jetting. Plug turned more of a brown color after jetting, indicating better A/F ratio. Replaced spark plug anyway and can see strong blue spark. Also, gas is making it to the plug.
      Finally did a compression test and had low compression. I adjusted the valves which were a bit out of spec, and saw no improvement. A wet compression test (one tsp oil in plug hole) showed higher compression, but still low, indicating the piston rings are toast. I ordered new rings and top end gaskets and will rebuild the top end next week.
      I was also wondering if I have a timing issue, since the engine at TDC (pic 1) shows the cam sprocket about 30 degrees (in the retarded position?) off from being horizontal with the head, as it should be according to the FSM and Clymer manuals. Also, when cranking the engine CCW by hand, the flywheel tends to spin past TDC and happens to align the cam sprocket perfectly horizontal with the head. Is my timing way off? Also, the flywheel has a || mark (pic 2) near TDC that I used to adjust the valves. Just today when I took the pictures, I noticed a |F mark (pic 4) that usually spins past quickly so I never saw it before. both marks appear close to TDC but the engine always wants to spin to the natural position (pic 5). Where is my true TDC? Manuals only show a |T mark. Are the cam sprocket lines supposed to be horizontal with the head? Maybe it jumped a tooth? I have read the cam chain tensioners are known to fail also.
      Edit: Found the T mark, updated photo near bottom of thread
      tl;dr
      Bike died on me, has low compression, going to rebuild top end. See pictures. Could this be a timing issue also? Does anyone know if the lines on the camshaft sprocket are supposed to line up with the horizontal lines on the head? Thanks in advance for the help!
      Pic 1- TDC at || https://imgur.com/QJXXjXH
      Pic 2- || mark https://imgur.com/v7dBSf8
      Pic 3- TDC at |F https://imgur.com/DZCPBaT
      Pic 4- |F mark https://imgur.com/JbcVYhF
      Pic 5- Engine wants to spin to this position: Cam sprocket lines horizontal with head- https://imgur.com/S3rPRgd
       
      Let me know what you guys think. Has my timing jumped? I appreciate your help!
      Cheers,
      Spencer
       
      Edit: Finally found the damn "T" mark. Always spins past so I wasn't able to see it before. Updated picture posted near bottom of thread. Timing looks fine so  just going to rebuild top end next week to restore compression