Nissan truck Clutch Problem! help!

Pretty general question here. Looking for some advice that could save me some $

I drive a 2001 nissan frontier 5 spd. 93K miles and the clutch is starting to go. I have to shift it at under 3000 rpm or it grinds, even with the clutch all the way in. I usually rev it to about 4000, push in the clutch, and wait till the revs drop to around 3000 and then shift. If I dont wait, it grinds pretty bad. This isnt a huge problem except when accelerating from a stoplight or something, i have to go reeeeeally slow.

my question is... what's the problem? Do i need a whole new clutch set up? or is there a quick fix? i'm just looking for some suggestions so when i take it in to the mechanic, i can sound like i know a little bit about what's going on...

i know this isnt directly motorcycle related, but its how i get my bike to the track, so for me it is!

Pretty general question here. Looking for some advice that could save me some $

I drive a 2001 nissan frontier 5 spd. 93K miles and the clutch is starting to go. I have to shift it at under 3000 rpm or it grinds, even with the clutch all the way in. I usually rev it to about 4000, push in the clutch, and wait till the revs drop to around 3000 and then shift. If I dont wait, it grinds pretty bad. This isnt a huge problem except when accelerating from a stoplight or something, i have to go reeeeeally slow.

my question is... what's the problem? Do i need a whole new clutch set up? or is there a quick fix? i'm just looking for some suggestions so when i take it in to the mechanic, i can sound like i know a little bit about what's going on...

i know this isnt directly motorcycle related, but its how i get my bike to the track, so for me it is!

Not a Nissan guy, but here's a few things to check-

If it's a hydraulic clutch, is the fluid low? A hydraulic clutch with low fluid won't fully disengage.

Another problem could be the master or slave cylinder is worn, and isn't completing the full range of motion.

If it's a manual clutch (linkage) it could just need an adjustment.

If you're not sure, look near the master cylinder for a small reservoir attached to the firewall. It will be about the size of a salt shaker.

Usually a clutch that's starting to go will slip, but you don't mention any of that happening.

Happens in every gear shift? Any problems stopping in gear and the vehicle wanting to creep forward or die? Starting vehicle in neutral, is it very hard to impossible to get it into gear?

If the fluid is low there are a couple reasons. first off look under the dash where the clutch pedal is. Up on the firewall where the clutch master cylinder rod goes through check to see if any fluid is leaking down the firewall on the inside. You can check the slave cylinder for leakage by peeling back the boot on the slave cylinder itself and see if its wet. If either of those are leaking replace them. I have seen those two cause your symptoms before. The fluid could be low also if the friction disc is worn. If its a hydro set up the slave will have to go out farther causing less fluid in the resivor. If those things check out ok your going to need a new clutch assembly

:thumbsup: Bummer. All the resioviors are full, there is no sign of leaking, inside the firewall or out. Clutch doesnt slip, or have any problems when standing still. Only when driving. Clutch works fine for starting off in 1st gear from a dead stop, even on a steep uphill, but just gets cranky at speed. Thanks for the help guys, i'm taking it in today.

hmm. If the clutch isn't slipping and the res are full, there's only one other part that cause the conditions you describe. Synchros.

What it sounds like to me, you are manually timing the gears. Like in a rig(Chickenhauler, help me out here) without synchros.

If this is the case, that's going to be a very expensive repair bill.

Keep us informed. I have an '04 Frontier with that tranny and I'm curious to hear what it was.

With no problems stopping and easy to get from neutral to a gear, it would seem the clutch is fully disengaging.

Synchronizers would be a good guess as to the grinding...but EVERY gear?...not likely unless it ran outta tranny juice

let us know what was found

hmm. If the clutch isn't slipping and the res are full, there's only one other part that cause the conditions you describe. Synchros.

What it sounds like to me, you are manually timing the gears. Like in a rig(Chickenhauler, help me out here) without synchros.

If this is the case, that's going to be a very expensive repair bill.

Keep us informed. I have an '04 Frontier with that tranny and I'm curious to hear what it was.

Yes, big rigs are non-synchro trannies-you have to match your RPM's with the gear you wish to enter, along with the rear end speed you are traveling.

But, for it to do this in every gear, that would mean ALL the synchro's are fried-not unheard of, but very rare for them all to go out at once.

My vote is the clutch isn't fully disengaging, and the trans RPM's are being influenced by the engine RPM's, and the gears are not "meshing" properly due to this input.

Yes, big rigs are non-synchro trannies-you have to match your RPM's with the gear you wish to enter, along with the rear end speed you are traveling.

But, for it to do this in every gear, that would mean ALL the synchro's are fried-not unheard of, but very rare for them all to go out at once.

My vote is the clutch isn't fully disengaging, and the trans RPM's are being influenced by the engine RPM's, and the gears are not "meshing" properly due to this input.

Yeah good point. He isn't specific whether it's all the gears or just one or two. If it is all of them, that's a clutch problem.

We'll have to wait until we hear back from him.

Hey guys... thanks for the help...

It happens mostly from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. Rarely in 4th and never in 5th. I think thats because i'm usually revving over 3K in 1st 2nd and 3rd, not 4th or 5th. I tried shifting it without the clutch at all, and that's definitely harder than when i use the clutch. It's working somewhat, just not perfectly.

Hey guys... thanks for the help...

It happens mostly from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. Rarely in 4th and never in 5th. I think thats because i'm usually revving over 3K in 1st 2nd and 3rd, not 4th or 5th. I tried shifting it without the clutch at all, and that's definitely harder than when i use the clutch. It's working somewhat, just not perfectly.

Incorrect oil or worn out oil can cause this. Has the trans oil ever been changed? Might try that before anything else...

I have a 2002 Frontier with 89K

I am starting to hear a squealing noise from the Throw out bearing which is much worse when cold. I am also starting to notice that my clutch does not release as well as it should making it difficult to get first from a stop.

Step one: inspect hydralic clutch system for leaks. Then flush/ bleed system with clean fluid. Then adjust your push rod between the master cylinder piston and the pedal. There must be some free play in the rod but you want to minimize it since the pedal assembly has been wearing for 93K

If this does not work or even helps but does not fix the problem then you will need to replace your clutch system. Consisting of New (not rebuilt) pressure plate disk, and release bearing and pilot bearing. This would be a good time to replace the oil in the trans with High Quality oil.:thumbsup:

Don't wait too long before replacing the clutch or you will be rebuilding the transmission if the grinding continues for too long. :eek:

well, looks like i waited a little too long to take it in... New transmission bearings, new transmission rings and a new clutch are now installed in my pickup. $1400 later. :prof:

I would look more at the clutch lever if it is a fuild powered clutch pedal ( most likey in that new of a truck ) check the clutch fuild and look at were the clutch fork comes out of the bell house see if it is moving I would sooner think you have a master/slave cylnder problem than a worn clutch if it is a cable powered pedal most cars have an adjustment for free pay by the clutch pedal its self

well, looks like i waited a little too long to take it in... New transmission bearings, new transmission rings and a new clutch are now installed in my pickup. $1400 later. :prof:

Hmmm you won't do that again, will you? A very expensive mistake.

i have a 1991 nissan d-21 pick-up.i have bled clutch several times,can't seem to get any real preasure built up.new clutch master,slace cylinder,and line.petal does not come back up by itself.i have never had so much problems bleeding a clutch.can you help me

i have a 1991 nissan d-21 pick-up.i have bled clutch several times,can't seem to get any real preasure built up.new clutch master,slace cylinder,and line.petal does not come back up by itself.i have never had so much problems bleeding a clutch.can you help me

If the pedal isn't coming back up by itself (returning to top) that would sound like a bad return spring.

Just because it's a new master cylinder doesn't mean it's always good....been there, done that.

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