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Tilting the Carb on my 07 wr250

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I bought an FMF jet kit for my wr and I'm ready to rejet. I have read that you can tilt the carb instead of taking it off in order to access those hard to reach parts of the carb to rejet. I have a general idea of how to tilt the carb. If you have rejetted this way tell me how you did it and if it was easier to do it this way or to take off the carb for the first rejet. Thanks.

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Forget tilting on an alloy framed bike. Unless you have the allen driver to remove the bowl on the bike, you will need to pull the carb. To do that, you have to pull the mufflt and rear shock and remove all the sub frame bolts. A real PITA.

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So every time I want to rejet I will have to dissemble the whole tail end of the bike? And this is how it is with all yammis with aluminum frames? If that truly is the case than that really sucks...Any other opinions?

All you wr and yz owners with the aluminum frame are you removing the carb with every rejet?

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im not sure but this sounds likea pain!! Im getting ready to od the throttle screw on my 08 WR and not looking forward to all that work just for a 2 min screw swap!! lol

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im not sure but this sounds likea pain!! Im getting ready to od the throttle screw on my 08 WR and not looking forward to all that work just for a 2 min screw swap!! lol

I remember doing my throttle screw, hope you have skinny hands...Oh what fun, bloody your knuckles for 30 minutes or pay 75 dollars for a shop to do it, I'd go with the bloody knuckles

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my 06 wr throttle stop was hard for my hands and i have a steel chromoly frame.

rear end, unbolt midpipe/muffler, bottom of subframe, top of shock, loosen carb boot, pull up, the frame spins up to reveal its goodies.

its like that on all bike with al uh mini um frames. i'd do the stop screw when you rejet, you have to pull the carb off to rejet it pilot/leakjet anyways. why not do all at once. just me THINKING OUT lOUD, very loud

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The throttle stop screw can be done on the bike with the right Allen driver in five minutes. Even the float bowl can be done too. Again, a special length allen driver, ideally, one on a rachet is needed. The bowl only needs to be pulled to do the leak jet. I pulled it once, installed an adjustable leak jet to save me the grief and to swap out the starter jet .

The main and pilot jets are super easy to get to via the 17mm plug on the bottom. With a ball end driver, the needle is no problem once the tank is pulled.

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