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Full XR650 exhaust ?

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I've asked this question before, and have done searches, but the responses I get are'nt all relevant anymore: many companies have stopped making/supplying exhuast systems for the XRR that are being reccomended, or at least here in the usa.

I know there are still lots of FMF Hi-Flo stainless headers out there, and I was wondering what kind of power band change would I experience. I don't want the powerbomb version, as it hits the Edle carb float bowl (even if I 'dent' it, it heats up the float bowl gas).

I'm fully uncorked in and out, with a Edle and a FMF Powercore Slip on right now.

I want more power everywhere, especially mid to high. The bottom I have right now is downright phenomenal.

Will I enjoy the FMF Hi-flo? It seems the it would be a good 200.00 investment, if it is the right one for me.

Oh yeah, I plan on finding an HRC cam/kit too.

TIA

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I run the stg. 1 hotcam, and I ran that before a header and airbox mod. I made good power. However, it felt that once I opened the airbox, put on the header, and re-jetter the carb, the bike felt like it pulled a LOT better. I should say, that it wasn't like hitting a NOS button, but I could tell there was a difference.

As long as you open up the airbox w/ the header, and do a re-jet, you should notice a little difference up top. When I did my header, I didn't notice much on bottom, but I could definatly feel a difference in the mid-top range. In the top-end it seems that it kind of peaked out.

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Krannie,

I run a Hi-Flo on my 650R. Part of what I say below is quoting myself from a past thread with some updated rewording and addition.

For reference of power character of the HI-Flo, It has given my bike a good extra rush of power from midrange on up. From approx. 4500rpm is where it feels like it really comes on. The bottom end is still plenty strong but a little 'softer' you might say, or rather a more 'linear' feeling.

Explanation: The stock header gives sort of a spike or surge of power right off the very bottom, climbs good through the lower midrange but then starts signing off in the upper midrange.

In my experience with the Hi-Flo, you lose that more abrupt surge right off the bottom but the low end is still strong. I think you might notice this from any larger header compared to the stock header. This is the only way I can really explain it. You may not lose much bottom end power overall, but again, it will just not have that abrupt power spike right off the very bottom.

As for the power in the midrange on up, it definitely pulls with more authority than the stock header. It is quite noticable. The power keeps pulling in the upper rev range rather than the power nosing over and falling flat as with the stocker. You can pull each gear a little longer because of this as well.

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Maybe you can help,Mines fully corked.I want to be able to hear the bike and maybe get some low end out of the deal

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Krannie,

I run a Hi-Flo on my 650R. Part of what I say below is quoting myself from a past thread with some updated rewording and addition.

For reference of power character of the HI-Flo, It has given my bike a good extra rush of power from midrange on up. From approx. 4500rpm is where it feels like it really comes on. The bottom end is still plenty strong but a little 'softer' you might say, or rather a more 'linear' feeling.

Explanation: The stock header gives sort of a spike or surge of power right off the very bottom, climbs good through the lower midrange but then starts signing off in the upper midrange.

In my experience with the Hi-Flo, you lose that more abrupt surge right off the bottom but the low end is still strong. I think you might notice this from any larger header compared to the stock header. This is the only way I can really explain it. You may not lose much bottom end power overall, but again, it will just not have that abrupt power spike right off the very bottom.

As for the power in the midrange on up, it definitely pulls with more authority than the stock header. It is quite noticable. The power keeps pulling in the upper rev range rather than the power nosing over and falling flat as with the stocker. You can pull each gear a little longer because of this as well.

I have ridden this bike (Thumpage's) and it does pull real well with this setup. You are not going to gain low end by making a bike breath better. The stock header has a restriction just out of the the head that really helps with low end but, it also robs the mid to top end very badly. Going to a stage II cam give power everywhere but, most of the power will be from mid on up. With a free flowing header/muffler, more air and fuel in (pumper carb., better flowing air filter and more air getting to that filter) and a cam you will have the same power down low but, a huge increase in the upper rpm range.

Maybe you can help,Mines fully corked.I want to be able to hear the bike and maybe get some low end out of the deal
You got to uncork that bike!! Friends don't let friend ride corked!!!

Thumpage has it covered as far as just going from stock to a free flowing header.

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Buy a Pro Circuit T4 they fit nice and they give you lot's of power everywhere.. And I run a mix of 110 and premium seems to like the lead and high octane. Valves like it too lot's quieter. Your bike will sound a little quieter than the bikes in dust to glory...

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I just bought one:

fmf_hi-flo_ss_300.jpg

:thumbsup:

Power character may vary to some degree in parts of the power spread, since we run different mufflers. But I would have to say that you will still gain the same overall benefit, (more mid to top) from the header itself over the stock header. That's a given when compared to the stocker. I think you will like it.

One thing I should mention to check for, just in case; When you receive the header, check the [inside] of both exhaust flanges. The reason I say this is that I had gotten one that did not have a complete 360 degree weld at the seam between the pipe itself and the flange. There was just about 3/16"-1/4" left of the seam not covered by the weld. I exchanged it. It might not have made any difference since it did not have a literal gap or anything but I wanted to be sure there was nothing for me to think about later as far as an exhaust leak.

Oh, and I would recommend buying new copper exhaust crush washers to help prevent any exhaust leakage. A small price to pay for peace of mind. I had to carefully pick mine out after removing the stock header as they did not just fall out.

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Maybe you can help,Mines fully corked.I want to be able to hear the bike and maybe get some low end out of the deal

As BWB63 says; "You got to uncork that bike!! Friends don't let friends ride corked!!!, Lol.

I would be glad to help and guide you through the process, the parts list & how to *properly* modify your stock muffler tip, if you need. To make things simple, PM me by clicking on my forum name so that this thread doesn't get highjacked with this subject.

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Hi Everyone,

While opening up the inflow and outflow of your BRP might be whats best for close course competition..... And yes I have both full race bikes and quiet sub 94 db trails bikes.....

I guess I will have to be the voice of reason here....

DO NOT GO LOUD unless you are in a closed course racing event. The biggest complaint the OHV community hears (punn intended) is that we are TOO LOUD.

Instead of trying to get that last two horsepower out of your bike I suggest loosing some weight, hitting the gym, and practice riding your bike.

A top rider who is in shape, on a stock bike, can smoke all of us any day of the week.

Being LOUD does not make you fast or cool. It only makes you annoying.

Save your money and go fix the suspension. This will acutally make you faster.

Thanks for listening if you still can,

Adios,

Baja Joe

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Hi Everyone,

While opening up the inflow and outflow of your BRP might be whats best for close course competition..... And yes I have both full race bikes and quiet sub 94 db trails bikes.....

I guess I will have to be the voice of reason here....

DO NOT GO LOUD unless you are in a closed course racing event. The biggest complaint the OHV community hears (punn intended) is that we are TOO LOUD.

Instead of trying to get that last two horsepower out of your bike I suggest loosing some weight, hitting the gym, and practice riding your bike.

A top rider who is in shape, on a stock bike, can smoke all of us any day of the week.

Being LOUD does not make you fast or cool. It only makes you annoying.

Save your money and go fix the suspension. This will acutally make you faster.

Thanks for listening if you still can,

Adios,

Baja Joe

You make a good point, BUT...

Why is it perfectly acceptable for the "Bad ass" Harley guys to run full open pipes spewing antiquated nonsense, while they think about their next lawsuit they are taking on? Makes me sick...

This is not an attack on you, I am just pissed off at the double standard we have to uphold to.

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Yeah, whats up with that double standard? Of course two wrongs do not make a right....

I have given up trying to figure this one out. How can a Forest Ranger give an OHV a ticket on a dirt trail and at the same time hear a 120 db Harley racing up hwy 20?

Selective Enforcement? I do not know, but I have my opinion....

AKA - Read this as Thread Highjacking....

:thumbsup:

I have asked the Forest Service to tell me if they have any data on what level of noise "bothers" the animals. Each person I talk to has their own opinion, but no real unbiased hard facts or reserach is available to them. They think that measuring the amount of a chemical in owl sh*t is suppoed to show if the owl is stressed or not. What ever.

Here is what I have ask the Forest Service, "...you just tell me what db is low enough that the noise is no longer an issue to close a trail. AND DO NOT tell me that its lower than a bunch of Eco Fags signing a song while hiking.

I suggested, based on the biased independent studies the Forest Services uses, that anything less than 90 db is just fine.

Now here is where it can get confusing...

I told the Cali Forest Service to dump the green sticker program. Believe it or not, you are not required, by any law, to have a green sticker to ride in the forest. The Forest Service has an agreement (not a law) with the DMV that states that OHV Green Stickers will be required for FS travel, but that $$ should come from this fund to help pay for trails. As we all know the Forest Service OHV staff is DEAD LAST in line while studies for FERET CRAP are the first to get funded.....

So I told the Forest Service to stop requiring Green Stickers and come up with their own stickers:

1) All bikes must be quiet, 90 db or less. This way the Forest Service anti OHV people cannot close a trail due to noise.

2) The money from this sticker, 80% of it has to stay at the local ranger district and it HAS TO BE used to sustaining and maintaing OHV use in the local area. The greater the stickers the greater the riders the greater the need for funds.

3) All bikes must have a screen type spark arrestor. This way no OHV riding areas can be closed due to a dry season for fear of a sprak starting a fire. The reason for this is by the Forest Service's own definition of 100% spark containment, only a screen type (of a certain screen size which all screen type spark arrrestors use) spark arrestor meets this definition. Turbine type (whick most ATVs come with) are only 90-100 % effective. Now we all know that there has never been a case of an OHV spark causing a fire and that people are the ones who light fires.... but lets not get into that.

So, since you ask you got my full scoop on mufflers for OHV use i decided to go on a bit of a rant. Sorry.

FYI - The Forest Service has not gotten back to me on this FS Sticker Program.

I may hit up the new Tahoe Forest Supervisor with my ideas.

Read up on why the Green Sticker Program was created and how its been hickjacked for 30 years by eco freaks.

Roost on Brothers While You Still Have Petrol and Dirt to DO IT IN!!!

Adios,

Baja Joe

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:thumbsup:

Power character may vary to some degree in parts of the power spread, since we run different mufflers. But I would have to say that you will still gain the same overall benefit, (more mid to top) from the header itself over the stock header. That's a given when compared to the stocker. I think you will like it.

One thing I should mention to check for, just in case; When you receive the header, check the [inside] of both exhaust flanges. The reason I say this is that I had gotten one that did not have a complete 360 degree weld at the seam between the pipe itself and the flange. There was just about 3/16"-1/4" left of the seam not covered by the weld. I exchanged it. It might not have made any difference since it did not have a literal gap or anything but I wanted to be sure there was nothing for me to think about later as far as an exhaust leak.

Oh, and I would recommend buying new copper exhaust crush washers to help prevent any exhaust leakage. A small price to pay for peace of mind. I had to carefully pick mine out after removing the stock header as they did not just fall out.

Great advice, thanks~!

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I have tried a few exhausts too. The best was a PC header pipe with a t4 spark arestor (modified to fit) setup. I was a very noticable improvement in the mid and up top. Even just a T4 spark arrestor with a stock header pipe made a very noticable improvement.

Make sure to run a good clean air filter and re jet. As you know all Cali bikes come so lean that I am amazed they even start at all. Not sure if your bike has been rejetted?

Just get it started and try and ride it with the choke on. If runs at all then you are still too lean.

The PC setup is pricey, but it did make a big difference.

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Hi Everyone,

While opening up the inflow and outflow of your BRP might be whats best for close course competition..... And yes I have both full race bikes and quiet sub 94 db trails bikes.....

I guess I will have to be the voice of reason here....

DO NOT GO LOUD unless you are in a closed course racing event. The biggest complaint the OHV community hears (punn intended) is that we are TOO LOUD.

Instead of trying to get that last two horsepower out of your bike I suggest loosing some weight, hitting the gym, and practice riding your bike.

A top rider who is in shape, on a stock bike, can smoke all of us any day of the week.

Being LOUD does not make you fast or cool. It only makes you annoying.

Save your money and go fix the suspension. This will acutally make you faster.

Thanks for listening if you still can,

Adios,

Baja Joe

MAN if he wanted opinions about how loud to go im sure he woulda asked, why is everyone trying to preach to people about sound?? Let them do what they want as Martin said look at about every cruiser out there with no sound restrictions, LOUD is bieng heard! nothing wrong with it, if you cant contribute to the thread and input on what questions are bieng asked then dont start stirring another pot up please!!!

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I'll be honest; I haven't looked through all the posts to find out BUT can anyone tell me what or where I could find how loud some of the popular pipes for the XRR are? I am looking to buy a high performance exhaust for my plated XRR and want a stealthy system so I can ride in more areas and at night I won't piss off my neighbors... I don't care if it is the highest HP pipe out there but I do want a big improvement from stock- Thanks!:thumbsup:

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I'll be honest; I haven't looked through all the posts to find out BUT can anyone tell me what or where I could find how loud some of the popular pipes for the XRR are? I am looking to buy a high performance exhaust for my plated XRR and want a stealthy system so I can ride in more areas and at night I won't piss off my neighbors... I don't care if it is the highest HP pipe out there but I do want a big improvement from stock- Thanks!:thumbsup:

Stealthy means very quiet. The stock pipe is very quiet.

You can modifiy the tip flow with a hole saw, increasing the db by about 15db, and it is still quieter than most.

Most aftermarket pipes that I could find still being made are basically 'race' pipes. FMF is the only company still offering multiple options of silencers, that I know of, for the XRR.

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Krannie- you get the pipes yet? Just wanting to know if the fit is ok on your bike. I am looknig at getting the same headers to go with my yoshi pipe.

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Krannie- you get the pipes yet? Just wanting to know if the fit is ok on your bike. I am looknig at getting the same headers to go with my yoshi pipe.

If your Yosh pipe is meant to fit the stock header, it will fit up with the FMF Hi-Flo.

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