Battery strap fix

After seeing the way the strap across the battery holds it down & how loose the battery was, I decided to try & secure the battery better, here is a pic of my fix. I just relocated the holding clip to a better position & pop riveted it to the plastic member near the battery, with a couple of small washers behind the pop rivets, to stop the rivets pulling through the plastic. It holds the battery a lot firmer, so I thought I'd pass it on to you guy's.


Damo :thumbsup:

PS - You have to remove the rear guard.

Nice work! do you still have the seat sitting down hard on the top of the battery. i know it is supposed to though it sits down that hard that it is wearing grooves into the battery. i think my battery will start leaking soon..... Does your mod reduce the wear on the battery? or is too early to tell?

Did a similar thing the first time, but still found the single strap not strong enough & it`s hard to get at at, i wanted a quick release for work periods.

I have already cracked one battery base, now it` got a flat bottom & is snug.

"One i prepared ealier"

Battery Box easy option #1

I was a bit sick of the battery vibrating like crazy and chaffing the case, the rubber band doesn`t do a lot - mainly because it`s not puuled around the battery - only across it. And it`s pretty weak,

A cradle that allows the strap to pull over (i`m going to make another that takes a second strap a little lower, this will be fine for now.

A piece of alloy, hacksaw & 2 x m4 bolts and washers, drill & tap thread in cradle and bolt through mudguard from behind, just ensure you use the correct length so it`s flush with the backing plate

oh "a little white paint too"




Battery Box easy option #2

This one is real easy, cut two slots in the side ribs, file the rough edges & put a parker strap or similar through to strap the battery, a bit of rubber behind the battery & under the buckle, a small plate bent for the bottom so the ribs don`t wear the battery (any more than they would have already)

This one is my preference, it`s so easy and quicker than actually fumbling with the rubber strap, it`s strong & hold really firm, a smaller strap /buckle would be neater though



Nice work! do you still have the seat sitting down hard on the top of the battery. i know it is supposed to though it sits down that hard that it is wearing grooves into the battery. i think my battery will start leaking soon..... Does your mod reduce the wear on the battery? or is too early to tell?


Seat position hasn't changed & is hard on top of the battery. I ended up putting a piece of inner tube in the seat base, at right angles to the original ribbed rubber where it touches the battery, not any problem since & nice & snug. If you leave the seat base as it is I think that the hard plastic seat base chaffes the battery which is why I put the inner tube on the seat base, it also tends to grip the battery & hold it snug.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By 305hestbeck
      So I just sold my bike 2017 TC250 with only 17 hours on it. When it left it was in brand new condition. But 2 days later the engine cases were being split.
      Turns out the Idler gear had snapped off during the new owner’s first ride. Of course I am not paying for the fix as one it is clearly a manufacturing defect. I told him If needed I would help by me claiming it as warranty issue.
      Anyways I did some research and discovered that the KTM/Husky expected a 6x12 to hold the idler gear sys together on 2017.
      Well this seems to be an issue and KTM did fix it for the 2018 models. They actually updated the whole Idler gear sys, but if you still have a 2017 2 stroke the fix before it happens which it could on the first kick would be to replace the bolt with a 6x20.
      You will have to tap the hole for more treads. Actually the 2018 engine case was also updated for this and that’s all they did.
      I own a 2018 TX300 now. One reason why I looked into it. 
      Just thought I would share.

    • By Tranos07
      Greetings to everyone. After a lot of searching I finally decided to join this forum in order to finally find a solution to my problem. Here's my story. Bought in a hurry an sm610 2005 (cylinder with the small tensioner) which wouldn't start cold. Only if I connected it to a car battery would it start but not always and not easy. Got a new 14amp battery and nothing. Spark plugs,starting spray etc nothing worked out. If the engine was cold it would start in an instant very very easily. Took it to a mechanic he told me that it had no compression so he grinded the valves. When I got there to take it back he told me that my pick up coil was in bad condition and needed to be replaced in order to start cold. Of course nothing changed after the valve job and after 5 hours of riding(not constant) my new head gasket blew and when I took it apart I found a crack in the water passage on my head right next to the blown up spot on my gasket. I don't know if it was already cracked or if it cracked after gasket blew all I know is that it was tightened properly as I was in front when this happened. I'm just trying to figure out why i can't get it to start cold. All answers are welcome. I had the head fixed and I'm ready to reassemble the engine. Could the pick up coil actually be responsible for this? Another thing I noticed. My tensioner had an apostate welded up to it so i needed a new cam chain as well as a new tensioner. I have these. Could the ruffled chain be in charge? The engine was perfect when hot starting and working like a charm. Please someone help as I'm ready to take the damned thing and throw it into the ocean.
      PS is the pick up coil from an lc4 engine compatible?

    • By birdland101
      Restored 1974 honda xr75 original motor and frame podercoated frame runs, looks, shifts, stops good. top end rebuild many new parts most all honda. email
    • By Jawehangwe
      2017 Husqvarna TX, TE, FE, 125, 250, 300, 350, 450, 501

      Greatly reduced arm pump and fatigue
      Increase rear wheel traction while standing under acceleration
      Create a seat bounce effect when jumping standing up
      Shave seconds off your lap times
      Light weight and adjustable
      Easy to install
    • By MotoXRacer_19
      As I was inspecting my new-to-me bike that I just purchased, I noticed there is a grove on the back side of my front brake rotor that goes completely around it, and you can feel it with your finger nail. I have noticed some poor performance, but I figured it was because of the new pads that the previous owner installed just before I bought it hadn't seated yet. However, I've ridden a couple times and it doesn't seem to get much better, if any better at all. Is that enough to explain why when I pull in the brake as hard as I can, it only slows me down a little, instead of going into a stoppie and over the bars (as I wish it would)?
      Should I look into buying a brand new rotor?
      I have no pictures of it, I'll try to post some when I can.