Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

sag, same for the woods?

Recommended Posts

I know that most suggest 95-100MM of static sag in the rear. If you ride woods vs. track, is this still the same? Lot to learn about suspenion. It was easy back in the day, there was no suspension. :confused:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think it is the same. I think race sag has more to do with the balance of the bike front to back. I do know the enduro bikes run more static sag, ie 30-40mm, even more. I guess depending on the bike. The only way to get more static sag that i could think of is to run a slightly stiffer shock spring. The stiffer shock spring would allow less preload and therfore more static sag. Less preload would mean a more plush ride. Hopefully someone will chime in that knows the facts.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I know that most suggest 95-100MM of static sag in the rear. If you ride woods vs. track, is this still the same? Lot to learn about suspenion. It was easy back in the day, there was no suspension. :confused:

That isn't static sag but rider sag. But the sag should be basically the same for woods vs track. Maybe slightly more for woods but you basic setting should always start at 33-35% of available wheel travel. On a Jap bike with 12.2-12.4" of wheel travel (315mm) it should be about 104mm with 33%. On a KTM with 13.2" of Wheel travel (335mm) it should be 114mm with 34%. So all rider sags shouldn't be one flat number.

Fork sag should be about 25-27% of available travel. I use 26% on my KTM.

Cher'o,

Dwight :excuseme:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, it was 119MM. Set it to 113 and the bike seems to turn better. Before it plowed thru like a bulldozer. Also the rear wheel was all over the place on take off. Any other advice?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Why stop there? Try 108, then 103 until you know you've gone beyond the sweet spot, then fine tune. Just because it's better doesn't mean it can't get even better.

Trouble is, sometimes tuning and adjusting becomes the obsession!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Why stop there? Try 108, then 103 until you know you've gone beyond the sweet spot, then fine tune. Just because it's better doesn't mean it can't get even better.

Trouble is, sometimes tuning and adjusting becomes the obsession!

Tell me about it!:confused:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Why stop there? Try 108, then 103 until you know you've gone beyond the sweet spot, then fine tune. Just because it's better doesn't mean it can't get even better.

Trouble is, sometimes tuning and adjusting becomes the obsession!

The trouble is that 108 and 103 are far outside the range that the suspension works at its best. 112mm is as tight a rider sag that I would use. If you need tighter turning go to the front end. Raise the forks, increase the rider sag. If you are at 108 or 103mm rider sag , you are way light on your shock spring or way heavy on your fork springs.

IMO,

Dwight :confused:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By smokey9lives
      Hi,
      I have a 2003 DRZ (actually a KLX400) and the head tube bearings are shot.  I ordered a new set to install but I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations on other parts I should replace while I have the front disassembled.  I was thinking about new rubber fork protectors, but are there other things that wear out on the DRZ front ends that you can only get to when disassambled?
      I also broke off a replacement key that I got for the steering lock.  I must have been made of cheap pot-metal.  Should I just remove the whole lock mechanism?
      Any tips or tricks for getting the old bearings out and the new ones in would be welcome!
      Thanks!
    • By hondahondo
      A few picks of my winter project.













    • By Luke Hufford
      Hey guys. I recently purchased a 16 yz250x and the first 2 rides i LOVED the suspension. Then the day before a race i reset all my clickers to stock and everything felt like crap. No plushness at all and deflected off everything. I now have a 5.4 shock spring for my 190 pound weight and dialed in sag. Any recommendations on where i should go from here? Right now the fork is 12 out on comp and 15 out on rebound. Shock is 1.75 turns out on hsc, 14 out on lsc, and 18 out on rebound. Any help would be appreciated!
    • By jake gu
      Today we’re going to be talking a little bit about automotive suspensions and how they work to smoothen the ride of your car. There are mainly three purposes of the automotive suspension system. First, they support the  weight of the vehicle. Second, they maintain accurate tire contact with the ground. And third, they absorb any shock that you get through the road when you hit a bump.
      Most modern vehicles come with an independent front suspension. Which means if one wheel hits a bump it does not disturb the other wheel. Nowadays, people use Coil Spring to support the majority of weight in the car. As it has a really good characteristics for absorbing any bumps as you go up and down on the road.
      However Springs aren’t very good at dissipating that energy. In fact that’s why you have the shock absorber. Which is there to smoothen out the ride and make sure the tire maintains contact with the road.
      In modern passenger vehicles the two most popular suspensions are McPherson strut and double wishbone style of suspension. The main advantage of the McPherson strut suspension is that it’s really cheap and simple that’s why a lot of manufacturers are moving towards this design. The double wishbone design allows the wheel to stay perpendicular to the body as it navigates a corner or as it goes over a bump. And that maintains good tire contact patch no matter where the wheel is situated. Another advantage of this design is that it can be made adjustable where you can control the position of upper control arms ball Joints.
      Click to Know More About Ball Joints and other Suspension Components
×