Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

1998 KTM 380 EXC help?

Recommended Posts

I recently bought a low mileage 1998 ktm 380 exc that hasn't been run in about 8 months. The previous owner dumped the carb and cleaned it and dumped all the gas. Started up first kick. Bike appears to be in a great shape and runs strong however after my initial ride I noticed it is leaking oil. It looks like the someone used liquid gasket on a section of the case. Not hte clutch cover but the next piece behind that. There are about 3 bolts at the bottom where small amounts of oil are dripping down.

I have several questions:

Does anyone have a 1998 ktm 380 exc manual in pdf?

What weight oil does the tranny use or can I just use dexron atf?

Do you know if that section of the case has a gasket or did someone simply not apply enough liquid gasket and it deteriorated over time and developed a leak.

I know the previous owner very well and he rode the thing about 3 times. I have a riding buddy who knows the original owner who lives 1 state away.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I recently bought a low mileage 1998 ktm 380 exc that hasn't been run in about 8 months. The previous owner dumped the carb and cleaned it and dumped all the gas. Started up first kick. Bike appears to be in a great shape and runs strong however after my initial ride I noticed it is leaking oil. It looks like the someone used liquid gasket on a section of the case. Not hte clutch cover but the next piece behind that. There are about 3 bolts at the bottom where small amounts of oil are dripping down.

I have several questions:

Does anyone have a 1998 ktm 380 exc manual in pdf?

What weight oil does the tranny use or can I just use dexron atf?

Do you know if that section of the case has a gasket or did someone simply not apply enough liquid gasket and it deteriorated over time and developed a leak.

I know the previous owner very well and he rode the thing about 3 times. I have a riding buddy who knows the original owner who lives 1 state away.

These are GREAT bikes. Does yours have the conventional forks (Xtreme is what they called them) or USD's?? Usually the trans call for 10w40 or 20w50 engine oil. I'm not fond of ATF. I realise the clutch runs in oil but MOST clutch plates for dirt bikes are designed for gear oil or engine oil. That case should have a gasket. I think it's easy to get to once you get the clutch off.

twostrokemilitia.jfn3.com

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I thought it had a gasket just wanted some input. I'm used to taking apart bikes with no manual because my last bike was a 99 tm en 300 but figured I'd see if anyone could help me out.

I'm trying to get in contact with the guy I bought the bike from because he has a manual on cd he's gonna give to me but if anyone can point me to a place to download a manual I'd greatly appreciate it.

I have the conventional style forks. The original owner was close to my weight so the suspension seems friendly thus far. The center of gravity is much lower in this bike making it feel more nimble although I think it weighs a bit more.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the clutch cover is the small round cover and then there is the right side outer case and then the inner case where the gears are. Te right outer case does have a gasket and it is common for the gasket to slip and leak. The cases can crack around the kickstart area and the oil check holes are easy to strip out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Talked to my local ktm dealer and I'm gonna pick up the gasket tomorrow. Got a few instructions on how to remove the clutch kickstarter etc and doesn't sound too bad.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just got finished rebuilding the top end on my 380exc and it is a really easy bike to work on. Just make sure you use a little loctite when you put bolts back in. I use 85wt tranny oil in mine. I think in helps keep the clutch a little cooler than 20-40 or atf. Probably just my imagination though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was able to find a manual online for the ktm 250 and 380 exc but it shows its for an 03. The engine doesn't look any different. Does anyone know if the engine design was the same from 98-last manufactured year??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gearsaver 80 to 85 weight seems to work well. I once tried some four stroke oil and it really ruined the clutch feel. Type F ATF should work also, but you need to change it pretty often.

I've not used threadlocker on any additional motor pieces, other than as recommended in the manual. Go by the book torques.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I was able to find a manual online for the ktm 250 and 380 exc but it shows its for an 03. The engine doesn't look any different. Does anyone know if the engine design was the same from 98-last manufactured year??

They will be close enough.

Any large discrepencies (such as tranny gears) can be effectively dealt with by looking at the exploded views of the online parts fiche. There is a large diff between the 125/144/200 compared to the 250/300/360/380 motors especially wrt the PV arrangement.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I got her all buttoned up and took her for a warm up ride just around the yard. No leaks and all seems well.

The gasket was deteriorated and a new gasket fixed her right up. Taking her on my first real dirt ride on the new to me steed tomorrow.

Thus far the bike has been very easy to work on. I'm liking the engineering behind it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I was able to find a manual online for the ktm 250 and 380 exc but it shows its for an 03. The engine doesn't look any different. Does anyone know if the engine design was the same from 98-last manufactured year??

IIRC, those years are the same basic engine. KTM rolled out a revised 250 motor in the SX line for '04 that made it's way to the MXC/EXC 250/300 models for '05.

Anyways, I see that you got 'er all fixed up and good to go. Have fun with it. The 380 is a monster of a motor. I rode one when I first started riding and I couldn't wait to get back on my 250 :confused: That 380 was just too much for my skill level (or should I say lack of skill level) at that time. I'd like to get another crack at it now that I have a few years of riding under my belt.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did pretty well on the bike today, no leaks but I did foul a plug and the valve core on my rear tire wouldnt hold air. I didn't have the right spare on me so had to call it quits a bit early due to that and the tire.

Gobs of power everywhere, gets going much faster from a lugging state than my tm 300 did but the gearing seems shorter. You can chug around in 3rd gear very easily and do really low end power wheelies to get her up over stuff if you need too.

I need to change the clutch cable because it's adjusted all the way out and get some spare plugs to carry with me till I make sure.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I did pretty well on the bike today, no leaks but I did foul a plug and the valve core on my rear tire wouldnt hold air. I didn't have the right spare on me so had to call it quits a bit early due to that and the tire.

Gobs of power everywhere, gets going much faster from a lugging state than my tm 300 did but the gearing seems shorter. You can chug around in 3rd gear very easily and do really low end power wheelies to get her up over stuff if you need too.

I need to change the clutch cable because it's adjusted all the way out and get some spare plugs to carry with me till I make sure.

Go to Steahly off road and but a fly wheel weight. The 380 won't know it's there. Helps with stalling. Work on jetting. Should not foul plugs. HAVE FUN. The grin factor on an open class 2T is HUGE:busted: :crazy::confused::excuseme: :excuseme: :sweden:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You guys are gonna love this. Jetting was fine....problem was the connector for the sparkplug was not screwed in all the way. Once I took off the spark plug in the trail it practically fell off. I realized it was threaded... screwed it back onto the cord threw the original plug back in the thing and she fired up first kick.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×