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NO!!!!!! Snapped/Stripped Head Cover Bolts. HELP!


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I just finished the project of greasing all my linkage/swingarm. When assembling the bike, I remembered that the last time I tightened my head cover I didn't use a torque wrench so I decided to unscrew them and make sure they were the right torque. WHY!!!!! When unscrewing one of the "B" bolts it snapped half way, and I cannot reach the bolt because it is recessed within the hole. AND the "A" bolt stripped. I guess the last time I over tightened them (even though they weren't even that tight). I can't believe this happened. I just completed basically the biggest project I've done on this bike and this happens to something I didn't even think about until I thought, hm..."I'll check to make sure these are right, SNAP!" Worst part of this is I'm supposed to go to the dunes on Friday. HELP!

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O Ya, and about the "A" bolt (short head cover bolt), idk how it got stripped and the threads started coming out when I screwed it back in. It will still tighten but not all the way to 7 lbs. WHAT SHOULD I DO?

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how tight did you put them??? i believe they only call for like 7 ft lbs. i can't see twisting them off with the much pressure. anyway! you try drilling a small hole in the midde of the bolt and tapping a easy out in it? if you tryed that what about completely drilling it and re-tapping it and installing a heli coil

JR

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Go to ace hardware and get a helicoil kit. Basically you drill out the threads and then tap it to a slightly larger size. The helicoil screws in and takes up the extra space from drilling the hole out, and the bolt should screw right in.

When you do this you need to make sure you drill the hole straight and be sure not to get any metal shavings in there. You could possibly put a hole in a rag or something and place it over the hole to collect the metal shavings.

Sorry if you don't really understand the process but if you need me to I could probably post some pictures.

Which dunes are you going to. Also, go asap to the dealership and get those bolts replaced, and save or replace those rubber o-ring washer things. If you don't have correct bolts and washers that thing will leak like a mofo.

Just out of curiosity were you using a 1/2 torque wrench. It takes ALOT of force to break those bolts. In my experience a wrench that large wont properly read low torque specs. It would almost be better next time to use a smaller regular wrench. But thats only if you have the real big one.

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Go to ace hardware and get a helicoil kit. Basically you drill out the threads and then tap it to a slightly larger size. The helicoil screws in and takes up the extra space from drilling the hole out, and the bolt should screw right in.

When you do this you need to make sure you drill the hole straight and be sure not to get any metal shavings in there. You could possibly put a hole in a rag or something and place it over the hole to collect the metal shavings.

Sorry if you don't really understand the process but if you need me to I could probably post some pictures.

Which dunes are you going to. Also, go asap to the dealership and get those bolts replaced, and save or replace those rubber o-ring washer things. If you don't have correct bolts and washers that thing will leak like a mofo.

Just out of curiosity were you using a 1/2 torque wrench. It takes ALOT of force to break those bolts. In my experience a wrench that large wont properly read low torque specs. It would almost be better next time to use a smaller regular wrench. But thats only if you have the real big one.

Ok, I would REALLY appreciate some pics if you don't mind. So if I tap it to a larger size and then put the helicoil in, the same bolt will screw into that? And when I tightened them awhile ago, I didn't even use a torque wrench, but I read that they only needed 7lbs, so I didn't tighten them that hard. I don't know how it snapped. Also, I've read somewhere else that to get snapped bolts out you can supper glue an allen wrench to the top of the bolt fragment , and if it's not too tight just unscrew it this way. could this work?

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Ok, I would REALLY appreciate some pics if you don't mind. So if I tap it to a larger size and then put the helicoil in, the same bolt will screw into that? And when I tightened them awhile ago, I didn't even use a torque wrench, but I read that they only needed 7lbs, so I didn't tighten them that hard. I don't know how it snapped. Also, I've read somewhere else that to get snapped bolts out you can supper glue an allen wrench to the top of the bolt fragment , and if it's not too tight just unscrew it this way. could this work?

Yes the same bolt.

Thats definitly a way to do it but they do have to be pretty loose. When you pick up the helicoil kit you can get a screw remover dunno what they call them. But like someone else said, you drill a small hole in the part of the bolt that broke off and then the remover kinda grabs and threads it out.

Anyway I'll try and post some pics real soon just make sure you take your time and do it right, or if you're not comfortable doing it a local machine shop will likely be able to do it really quick for a decent price.

Which dunes are you going to?

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a heli coil is a good quick fix and cheap. but if it where mine i would go to a local engine machine shop and have them get you a time-sert to put in there. it goes in just like a helicoil but you can put 100% original tourque back on it. not the story with the helicoils. i think they are around 60% of the the original tourque back on them. down side to the time-sert is that they are about a hundred dollars for the kit. half the cost of the head. but you dont have to tear your bike all apart.

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had the exact thing happen to my buddies bike. go buy a ez out from napa or you local hardware store. just make sure that when you drill the hole make sure you do it in the center. if you get it off set it is really hard to get out.

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It is funny and agrivating to watch my son work on his bike. So green and wet behind the ears! I made all the same mistakes when I was that young.......... it makes me chuckle.

The valve cover (head cover) bolts do not compress the cover to the head with much force. The bolts tighten to the head and seat on the bolt's shoulder only. This is why it requires only 7lbs. of torque.

Also, for those who are learning about their bike's maintainence it is important to use an anti-seize paste (from your local autoparts store) on the bolts that require the torque wrench. Not much is required. Just enough to get a smooth accurate torque reading.

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Just out of curiosity were you using a 1/2 torque wrench. It takes ALOT of force to break those bolts. In my experience a wrench that large wont properly read low torque specs. It would almost be better next time to use a smaller regular wrench. But thats only if you have the real big one.

Doesn't take THAT much on a 7 ft.lb bolt. I learned my lesson the hard way on my XR400. I was tightening the front axle pinch bolts (by feel) - I grabbed a 1/2" drive breaker bar just because it was the closest. I snapped 3 studs before I smartened up and switched to a 6" open end wrench. With a normal length wrench, 7 ft.lbs is like laying a feather on the wrench.

JayC

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Ok so an EZ out kit should be enough to get the bolt out? Is there a special kind of kit I need for such a small bolt, or is it one kit fits all? Also, the stripped nut will still get tight enough to where you can't unscrew it with your hand, so is this tight enough at least for this trip until I can get it fixed?

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I don't think he's talking about a head bolt. He's talking about a valve cover bolt.

But still........you don't want to ride the bike if it's leaking oil.

I rode mine one time without one of the valve cover bolt seals. Didn't notice it until I pulled off the track. Oil everywhere. I packed it up and went home. Later in the day, I found the seal laying on my garage floor. :confused:

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a heli coil is a good quick fix and cheap. but if it where mine i would go to a local engine machine shop and have them get you a time-sert to put in there. it goes in just like a helicoil but you can put 100% original tourque back on it. not the story with the helicoils. i think they are around 60% of the the original tourque back on them. down side to the time-sert is that they are about a hundred dollars for the kit. half the cost of the head. but you dont have to tear your bike all apart.

A Heli-coil can take 100 percent of the torque. It will be stronger than the original threads. Fairly cheep and easy enough to install. Here's their brochure: http://www.emhart.com/pdf/HC1018%20REV_2.pdf

They are a great, quick, cheap (and strong) fix for stripped aluminum threads.

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i had the same thing happen the hell with the heli coil, get you a small left handed drill bit , one with reverse threads, make sure u use a small punch, or in my case a heavy duty ice pick to get you a starting piont to drll in the center of the bolt , when you start drilling it the bolt will unscrew itself and come out, but if u stripped one heli coil it i think i had to do that on the back bolt if my memory serves me right good luck !

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GREAT NEWS! after I got home from home depot with an EZ out tool, and began to drill the hole in the center, I could see the bolt turning while I did this. At this point I knew that there was no pressure at all on the bolt, so I took a small flathead screwdriver and tapped an inprint into the screw, and eventually worked it out like out just with the screwdriver! What are the odds that the bolt snapped after it had loosened completely?

And about the bolt that got stripped. I took the extra rubber washer off of the snapped bolt and put in on the small bolt (that one that got stripped) With this added height the bolt is able to be tightened much more. Is this set-up fine for until I can get it fixed? Because I would definitely get it fixed before the trip, but as I am leaving on Friday morning, theres no time. To me this seems fine, because it is sealed the same way, and plenty tight to ensure no leaks.

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