DRZ400S The next step....

I'm looking for info on what cams to upgrade to, If the "E" base gasket adds compression, is the fcr39 really night and day? I don't want to spend 700 on yoshimura stuff though. Anyone done these mods only??? Thanks for the help!

I've got HotCams stage 1 (in & out), E gasket & FCR on my S. I did the gasket & cams together, so I cant say what each mod does separately, but together, they were a nice improvement. Peppier, easier wheelies, comes out of corners a little stronger feeling; that kind of improvement.

A few months later, I added the FCR. It adds much better throttle response, especially when you snap the throttle or roll it on quickly. Wheelies are even easier & more controllable. Adds power everywhere, but again, a nice improvement, but not mind blowing.

From what I've read here, the Yosh cams are good, but over priced quiet a bit. There are a few TT members that are running the Yosh cams & love 'em, if my memory serves me correctly.

Another set of cams are the RHC cams by Ron Hamp. Also very good cams, but if I'm not mistaken, they're used more with the big bore kits that stock bore.

Usually the base gasket get changed when you have the cylinder off for some reason, not many people do just the base gasket. The change will be noticable but not that much.

The fcr will help a lot, even with the stock exhaust. Add a good aftermarket full exhaust and you end up with a lot more snap to the bike.

It's less than $500 for a full muzzy system.

From what I read here most people recommend when changing cams you should change to single piece valves at the same time.

I went with some E parts... it was a noticable gain but I would have never done it if I would have had to pay for labor. Someday I'll own an FCR... but chances are it will be on a Yamaha 450, I just can't see spending another 600 on the DRZ right now. :confused:

From what I read here most people recommend when changing cams you should change to single piece valves at the same time.

Actually a few of us recommend going to one piece valves even with the stock cams etc.

From what I read here most people recommend when changing cams you should change to single piece valves at the same time.

"single peice" As in getting rid of the auto compression release crap?? If I do this and add a kicker am I gonna break my leg off? I have a yoshi slip on now, is the header pipe recommended??? Is the edelbrock pump carb any good? I can get it cheaper than in the tt store. Thank you all for the feed back!! Sure help.. Dave

A single piece valve is made from one piece of metal, not two like the stock ones. They stockers are known to come apart at the joint with disasterous results.

From what I've read here you want to stay away from the Edelbrock. If you search on Edelbrock you will find a lot of discussion/opinion on it.

You really need the full system to see any real gains in power.

"single peice" As in getting rid of the auto compression release crap?? If I do this and add a kicker am I gonna break my leg off? I have a yoshi slip on now, is the header pipe recommended??? Is the edelbrock pump carb any good? I can get it cheaper than in the tt store. Thank you all for the feed back!! Sure help.. Dave

Two piece valves are made with.....two pieces that are spun and pressed together and basically weld themselves to each other. It is less expensive than one piece because there is a lot less waste, of course the waste is collected and recycled so I'm not sure if that is a valid argument.

My personal cams have no auto decomp but I do have a manual.

The yosh slip on is as good as any other one, not at all. To experience real gains one must go to a full system and then you have three choices, in stainless you can go muzzy (their ti is the same design as their stainless just weighs less) or yosh. In ti I would recommend the yosh. For the off road use I do the muzzy stainless is the best option, very close to the yosh but with a company that is pleasant to deal with instead the pia yosh is. If I had a sm I'd probably go with the yosh ti.

fcr is the carb to get, no reason to screw around with the edelbrock

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