Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Expected life in miles

Recommended Posts

What is the expected life in miles of a XR650l 2007 if driven around town 80% and off road maybe 20% not too hard? What kind of miles per gallons do you getin stock form? Please specify u.s. or canadian gallons

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
What is the expected life in miles of a XR650l 2007 if driven around town 80% and off road maybe 20% not too hard? What kind of miles per gallons do you getin stock form? Please specify u.s. or canadian gallons

Thanks

When I got my 07 l the first tank of gas I got about 70 miles out of it . However the bike did not stay stock for the second tank of gas , as far as the life of the bike you can't kill it , just change the oil . My bike is de-smoged jetted with daves mods and I run 15/48 and at 65 mph I get about 45 mpg . The most mpg I have gotten is 51 mpg . Oh and welcome to tt ..:confused:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
What is the expected life in miles of a XR650l 2007 if driven around town 80% and off road maybe 20% not too hard? What kind of miles per gallons do you getin stock form? Please specify u.s. or canadian gallons

Thanks

Welcome to TT and congrats on your new L!

If you keep it all stock, and ride it conservatively... Keep the oil changed religously, it'll last a long time. I've heard reports of these getting 60-70 K. miles before O/H.

I would HIGHLY recomend doing Daves Mods, rejetting. They are way too lean stock and can run hot. This will cure that.

I got 40-45 when all stock. Now with all kinds of mods i still get over 40 MPG(US).

Rich.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Keeping the oil changed and valves adjusted is key to a long, happy life in these motors, mostly clean oil. The owner's manual recoomends service intervals of 4,000 miles for oil changes and valve adjustment. Most of the BRP owners seem to keep their oil changed at 1,000 mile intervals. Since we are talking about 2 qts of oil, I can't see the harm in that kind of frequency.

As far as the valve adjustment, a 4,000 mile interval is not bad.

There are a lot of these bikes around with more than 40,000 miles on the stock bore.

I have been getting a consistent 43-44 mpg average, even after the basic mods, (airbox snorkle, Uni filter, DJ kit, de-smog, and head pipe welds.) This is stock gears (15/45) mostly highway (65 miles per hour) in US gallons.

The first thing to go was the stock tank. I liked the look of the stock tank, but with only an 85 mile safe range, I needed more. I upgraded to a Clarke 4.0 gallon tank and usually ride about 155 miles before I stop to refuel. At that point I have used 3.5 to 3.6 gallons.

-Joe

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
What is the expected life in miles of a XR650l 2007 if driven around town 80% and off road maybe 20% not too hard? What kind of miles per gallons do you getin stock form? Please specify u.s. or canadian gallons

Thanks

I have 31,000 miles on my 04. The motor hasn't be opened up, however lots of other parts have needed maintenance and/or replacement. Chains, sprockets, wheel bearings (3x), shifter, foot pegs, handlebars, rotors, pads, blah, blah, blah. Maybe 5% offroad miles, in sandy singltrack, Bending hard parts seems to be the biggest problem. Don't neglect the rest of the bike.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
The owner's manual recoomends service intervals of 4,000 miles for oil changes and valve adjustment.

4,000 miles between oil changes? Why is the "R" in for 600 mile oil changes as per the service manual? Is that for an "L" that never sees the dirt? Just curious.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I get about 35-40mpg (US gallons) out of my bike. Mostly stock, Dyno jet kit, pipe ect and stock gearing. I think my low mpg numbers compared to the others is because I weigh a lot and I like to go fast.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4,000 miles between oil changes? Why is the "R" in for 600 mile oil changes as per the service manual? Is that for an "L" that never sees the dirt? Just curious.

This is only a guess, but with the HP rating of the "R", I am sure the tolerances in the motor are a lot tighter, plus the "R" was designed as a dirt bike first, vs. the "L" being primarily street. The "R" is expected to be used in a dirtier environment.

Again, just a guess.

-Joe

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By photonicreno
      Hi all!

       I've got an issue, one of many when it comes to bikes. I searched throughout all the pages I could find pertaining to my situation and couldn't find very much useful information.
      So the issue is, the bike has no electric start.... until it's hot enough to melt steel that is. It will bump start first time every time. But I can sit and crank the starter over for ever and it'll never start until the charger is bumped up past 200 amps. Not good.

       The story so far,
      Got the bike for 1k cash. Guy said it has no spark and no second gear. This particular guy also only ever rode newer crotch rockets. Brought it home pulled the choke, attached battery charger and she fired right up. Ran like absolute crap, but oh well I figure it's an older bike with only 10k miles so it probably needs a good carb cleaning. Took the carb apart and didn't know I messed something up until way later(didn't tighten down main jet). Oh well she runs well enough if I can get her started. Moved from California to Oklahoma. Eventually found the money to fix 2nd gear, and as I am a certified Honda small engine technician apprentice I figured it would be no big deal. Completely tore down engine to it's roots replaced 2nd, and 5th gear(because 5th gear connects to 2nd on the countershaft) dogs were worn pretty badly on both. The engine looked quite good compared to most others I've seen. Put the engine back together as per the service manual. Did all the right steps including loosening the banjo bolts to test for proper oil pressure. I even tore apart the electric starter to clean the contacts and the brushes and replace the dielectric grease. Adjusted the valves as per the service manual, replaced all gaskets, o-rings, seals, and oil filter.
       Finally after about a month of waiting on parts and reassembly I get to start her, only she doesn't. Electric start is still giving me the same issues I've always had. So I replaced the Ignition coil, CDI box, and put a new battery in, plus the starter motor rebuild. Nothing. Still cranks forever. I said what the heck and tried to push it slightly down hill and bump start it, and voila... fired right up! Once she gets hot enough and the stator charges the battery enough it'll electric start... sometimes.
       So I looked towards ignition, used a tool called ignition mate. Pretty awesome tool if you can afford it. Well while cranking the ignition mate reads the spark plug is getting 1-4kw of "spark" every cycle, well it only fires after getting up past 5kw sometimes 6-8kw. And sometimes the ignition would be intermittent as in it wouldn't give any spark at all. I cycle the ignition and it seems to soft reset the bike as it will usually give it back spark. I tested this with the new and old CDI box, the old one would never spark. Ever. So I threw it in the trash. A month later I stil l can't figure it out.
       Is there something I'm missing?

      TL;DR
      Bike won't start using electric start only bump start before and after engine rebuild
      Electric start works after pushing the starter past about 200 cold cranking amps or when hot.



       
    • By TheLastByte
      Contemplating picking up a BRP in the near future and looking for some perspective.The current owner claims that the bike has about six hundred hours on it, but there's no way for me to confirm as the odo's not accurate.
       
      I know brp's have a reputation for running forever on stock top ends, but they must eventually have an expiration date. What should I look for on a high mileage bike like this to make sure I'm not setting myself up for disappointment? Also, What are some non engine/transmission related issues I should look for?
    • By TanSnowman51
      Guys, 
      Have been riding my 650L for over a year and a half and have been loving every second! In August I moved back to Reno after finishing up my masters at Arizona State. I have been spending most of my time riding around verdi to stampede and the Dog Valley road area. Always looking for riding buddies. 
      Was curious what everyone was doing as far as Daves mods or jet kit for the upper elevations 4,000 to 8,000 feet?
      FMF Q4 exhaust, smog delete done so far!
       
      Thanks!
    • By Alexandre Askmo
      Hey dear folk!
       
      I need your help.
       
      A bit of background info, I’m a complete noob when it comes to holding a wrench and doing anything more than filling up the bike. I have however had an interest for as long as I’ve had a bike to make it mine, and that’s why I’m writing to you now. I just bought a donor bike, a Honda NX650 which a friend of mine is helping me fix up and then modify to my liking (I’m hoping to end up with a gorgeous scrambler in about 9 months).
       
      We found a hairline scratch in the cylinder and need to bore it. This leads me to my question.
       
      Should I get a 1st overbore performance piston or keep the compression ratio as is? If so is there anything in particular I will need to modify to tolerate the high compression piston?
       
      If I do get the performance piston, should I also get a new carburetor, hot cam, and new exhausts? I am planning on new exhausts anyway (2-1 from an XRL) and I’m planning on removing the airbox and getting a K/N pod air filter.
       
      Again, keep in mind I know nothing, my friend has however fixed up a bunch of XRLs and cars but never really used performance parts. Help me out with the decision please, I would also like to keep the whole build to a reasonable cost (I know this is a very relative number).
       
      I should also add that I want to keep the DNA of the bike, for example keeping the fuel tank instead of switching to a smaller rounder one as one usually sees in most custom builds. The aim of the whole build is to have an insanely fun bike to ride, both in the city and off-road, as well as giving it a bunch of my personality 😊
       
      Thanks a lot for any help!
       
      Best,
       
      Alex
    • By MrCitizen
      I've been rebuilding/restoring an XR650R for some years now (after toasting the motor in 2013). Sent the motor off to be rebuilt, had a local shop rebuild my forks and shock, and took care of most everything else myself.
      As of a couple months ago I had almost everything assembled and ready to run.

       
      As a final check before adding fluids to the bike, I decided to stick my boroscope into cylinder and take a look. The results were concerning.

       
      These boroscope pics looked so gnarly that I pulled the head off the motor to get a more thorough look.

       
      To say that I'm concerned is an understatement. I have pics of the motor internals pre-rebuild, and can confirm that this is definitely a new piston and replated cylinder. I also have all the old parts from the motor, so it does have a new cam, connecting rod, valves, and basically everything else I expected to have replaced.
      The builder "ran the motor briefly to confirm everything ran alright" and then shipped it back to me. I reached out to him with these pics and he said,
      The piston looks like this because he had it machined from 12:1 to 11:1 compression. The streaks on the cylinder wall are normal for one that isn't broken in yet. Regarding the valve impacts in the piston head: "My concern is that something may have passed through the cylinder. How does it run?" I've never run this motor. I can feel these streaks in the cylinder wall with my fingernail. Did he re-use a piston from some other motor?
      Is this dude jerking my chain or is this motor fine to run?
      He's a fairly well-known builder in the XR community and was recommended to me by guys in the (now-gone) XR650R forum.
×