Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Thanks TT members, Fork Seal is Fixed.

Recommended Posts

I am a recent convert from quads to Motorcycles. I have recently purchased a 2001 CR250, and spent my first Dune season on 2 wheels. The CR has breathed new life into my dune trips. The magic of the CR has also lead another Dune buddy to put his quad up for sale in hopes of getting a 2-wheeler before next Dune season.

As I prepared the toys for the upcoming Easter Trip, I noticed a glint of fluid on the rim of the front wheel. I thought that the kids had spilled a juice box while playing in the garage that day. I looked around quickly for leaks, saw nothing, and just wiped up the small puddle. I returned a day later and found new puddle glistning in the fluoresent light, Dam! Being new to Off-Road Motorcycles, I was unaware of the requirements to keep the fork seals cleaned on a regular basis. (My road bikes never had a leaking seal, ever.) I had just assumed that the seal was on the end of its life cycle, and I happened to be the owner when it gave up the ghost.

I was not looking forward to tearing the forks apart prior to the trip, but I did want to check TT to see what I was possibly in for. After a quick search, I came across the fork seal cleaning method. (I first chose the tear-off method.) Sweet, I went out to the garage and try as I might I could not get the tear-off to get underneath the seal. It was late, and I decided to try some more searches before I continued trying to Jam an object into my Fork's seal.

The next day I took some more time to research the Fork seal cleaning method. After being directed to a CRF450 fork seal replacement post, I realized that I was previously working on the dust seal, and basically had NO idea what I was doing. I was now glad that I had stopped and continued my research.

Later in the day I went out into the garage with my new found Knowledge. This time "Armed" with the .004 Feeler gage method. I started the project this time by removing the Dust Seal. This was a small victory, and I was feeling cocky from my new found knowlege. Once the Dust seal was down and out of the way, the .004 feeler gage was able to fit right in the Oil seal. I cleaned the seal several times until the presence of grit subsided. I was really surprised with the amount the sand that I was removing from the seal lip. It must have been the several low side dismounts I experienced during my first season in the Dunes.

So, Thanks to all of you TT'ers that take the time to post your knowlege. This saved my Easter trip, and what I assumed would have been a big project of pulling the forks apart to replace a faulty seal.



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Great save! It's probably a good idea to plan now for a seal replacement and bushing inspection/replacement after the trip.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I also ordered a pair of Seal Savers this morning. I have always run shock covers on my quads without this problem. I am hoping that the Seal Savers will add a bit of protection above the Dust seals.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

With the seal savers, make sure you take them off after EVERY ride and clean under them. They can trap dirt if you dont. Other then that they are a great product!!


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By D.Barrett
      Kicking around the idea of selling my CR250. I have other bikes and never get a chance to ride this one.

      This is a well-maintained bike with tons of aftermarket parts. It's set up primarily for woods/single-track riding, but will still do just fine on an MX track.

      -Fresh Pro-X top end(<1 hour)
      -FMF Gnarly pipe & FMF Shorty silencer(<1 hour on fresh packing)
      -PWK Air-Striker Carburetor(bought new from JD Jetting last year)
      -Steahy 10oz. Flywheel Weight
      -Boyesen Rad Valve with Carbon-fiber reeds
      -TwinAir air filter

      -Excel Pro-Series Wheels(19"/21")
      -Brand-new Shinko tires(546 Front, 505 Cheater Rear not mounted yet) w/ Heavy-duty tubes
      -Works Connection Radiator Guards
      -Skid Plate
      -FMF Factory 909 Handlebars
      -Polished Frame
      -Sunstar 13/51 Steel Sprockets(new in box)

      I'm sure I'm missing a few odds and ends. Comes with a Bill of Sale only. (708)287-1998 - Dave
    • By waldo
      Parting out 2000 cr 250r: frame 150.00, seat with brand new fx cover 30.00, sub frame 30.00, pro circuit works pipe 50.00, kick starter 10 bucks, tank with shrouds 30.00, rear shock 45.00, swing arm 40.00.  make offer on all other parts in picture. Buyer pays shipping from 36092 zip. 
    • By BabyGroot69
      I could not seem to find a similar thread so if one exists I apologize. I have an 02 cr250r with an 01 motor. I need to buy a new silencer with a spark arrestor because the current one does not have one. I am not sure if the owner before me used an 01 or 02 silencer because I have read the frame had significant changes from 01 to 02. Any thoughts? Thanks!
    • By Christo6060
      I want to restore a 1996 cr80 that doesn’t have any graphics and absolutely love the 1994 cr125r tank shroud graphics, I can’t seem to find anything that fits the cr80 with those graphics. I found one last week but lost the page and couldn’t track it down again, do the cr125r graphics fit the cr80 tank shrouds? or does anyone know where someone could make them for cheap or know about any in Australia 

    • By cerialsledder
      Hey guys,
      Could someone please explain the numbers on a needle jet for a mikuni carb?  I'm currently running a 38-73 needle but a lot of the people I talk to say I would be happier running a 38-70 needle.  I don't have a problem with going with what other recommend but I would like to understand the numbering for the needles first.  I understand the nozzle sizes, main jet and pilot jet it's just this damn needle thingamobob
      Thanks a lot