Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

XR600R top end tic tic tic

Recommended Posts

Yesterday I went to check out a 1996 XR600r for sale nearby for my younger brother who has finally convinced his wife he should have a dirt bike.

The bike had 14000km (8700mi) on the clock, asking price $AU3000. It started first kick, although I felt the engine was warm prior to me starting it.

It had plenty of compression and rode OK,it would power wheelie in 2nd gear no worries. Although when I had it idling there was a distinct metallic tic tic tic coming from the top end which I pointed out to the seller and he said he had heard it as well and was hoping that any potential buyer wouldn't notice it.

My 600R doesn't make that noise so that is why I noticed it, someone less familiar may not have noticed it.

Is there anyone here with an opinion what the noise could be?

I am thinking that it is probably valve adjustment that is required and it is just a tappett ticking away in there, as he said he had done nothing to the bike except for one oil change in the 2 years he had owned it.

Help me out here guys, because if I tell my brother to buy it and then he has to spend another $500 or more to fix something more serious my name will be mud with his wife.

Thanks in advance

Cheers

mick

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If it's tic, tic, tic it's just about got to be a valve with too much clearance. The question is why. Could just be out of adjustment or it could be because the cam or rocker is worn. No way to know without looking.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ask the owner if you can pull caps check for sloopy rocker .

I resemble a sloopy rocker some weekends!:excuseme:

Also listen for ex.leak.

I've heard some wierd sounds by the exhaust.:confused:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had the same tic on my 93 and one Honda shop using a stethescope type listener said it was a valve. took it to another shop because i didn't want the first one to do the work. Second shop had a 20yr experience Honda mechanic and he said it was the cam chain tensioner. he fixed it and now no more tic.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
If it's tic, tic, tic it's just about got to be a valve with too much clearance. The question is why. Could just be out of adjustment or it could be because the cam or rocker is worn. No way to know without looking.

You know an I know them tics turn into knocks on these motors. LOL

I'm on another set of cam an rockers on my 600r.

That dinky little oil supply line does not have enough volume.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the suggestions gang. So far we have (1) suspect rocker clearance(2)a dodgy cam chain tensioner or (3)a worn cam or sloppy rocker, all relatively cheap to fix. Anyother ideas to look at before we commit to the purchase?

The reason I am even considering this bike is that XR600R's very rarely come up for sale in this area even though there are plenty around and it is the first we have seen for sale since October last year.It is a bit rough around the edges but will clean up nicely if the tic is a cheap fix.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
You know an I know them tics turn into knocks on these motors. LOL

I'm on another set of cam an rockers on my 600r.

That dinky little oil supply line does not have enough volume.

How many miles were on the 600R of yours when the rocker gear needed changing??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
How many miles were on the 600R of yours when the rocker gear needed changing??

I pulled the motor down the other day to check the cam, it wasn't making any noises, it had 6000 miles on it an they didn't look to bad.

But I went ahead an replaced them anyway.

I've been thinking about getting them coated or heat treated to help wear.

I did put a bigger oil tube feed line on it this time to see if it the cam an rockers will last longer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Yesterday I went to check out a 1996 XR600r for sale nearby for my younger brother who has finally convinced his wife he should have a dirt bike.

The bike had 14000km (8700mi) on the clock, asking price $AU3000. It started first kick, although I felt the engine was warm prior to me starting it.

It had plenty of compression and rode OK,it would power wheelie in 2nd gear no worries. Although when I had it idling there was a distinct metallic tic tic tic coming from the top end which I pointed out to the seller and he said he had heard it as well and was hoping that any potential buyer wouldn't notice it.

My 600R doesn't make that noise so that is why I noticed it, someone less familiar may not have noticed it.

Is there anyone here with an opinion what the noise could be?

I am thinking that it is probably valve adjustment that is required and it is just a tappett ticking away in there, as he said he had done nothing to the bike except for one oil change in the 2 years he had owned it.

Help me out here guys, because if I tell my brother to buy it and then he has to spend another $500 or more to fix something more serious my name will be mud with his wife.

Thanks in advance

Cheers

mick

Offer him $2200.....if he's already admittedly tried to hide something from you, then who knows what he's STILL hiding from you. Only one oil change in 2 years????? Dang, was it stored or ignored? I know you said they don't come up for sale very often around there, but I would tend to stay away, or at least knock down the price by A LOT.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ive had a lot of experience with these engines, if it sounds like a loudish metallic rattle at idle that quietens as the engine warms, your cam chain is toast, if its a ticking sound at idle warm and hot, it will be tappet adjustment. Rockers dont often wear on these models, unless the bike a has been run low on oil for a period of time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have convinced the seller to let me take the bike to my place to check it over properly as when I was looking at it at his place he had three mates standing around yapping their heads off, which made looking at the bike proper a bit difficult.

He has said whatever it costs to fix the tic he will deduct off the price of the bike plus he will give me two cartons of beer for my labour.I had never met the guy before but as it turns out I know his mother and he trusted me to take the bike without paying for it.

In a previous post in this thread by reserrection he suggested that a exhaust leak could be the culprit and it did indead have an exhaust leak which was making a tic tic noise.I have fixed the leak and the noise isn't as bad but still there is a rattle which I'm convinced is the cam chain rattling away in there so a new chain is the next thing to fix. XR_rules seems to think that is the case aswell, how long does that take to replace or should I suggest he gives me three cartons for labour?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Timing chain is a fairly easy job. Just pull off the right side case cover, the valve cover and every thing is right there.

I suggest 3 cases of GOOD beer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please check tensioner before you go to far

Although peice of mind from new parts is priceless and if you can swing a wrench .get manual, and BEFORE most of the beer,dig in there

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How's my luck? I went to a local second hand book shop and you wouldn't believe it, There was a work shop manual for the XR600 for $6.00, now that is a good omen if I ever saw one.

Now I have the XR bible, a fridge full of beers and some mates coming around tonight, I am going in!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For the piece of mind it wouldnt hurt to replace the tensioner and spring as well. It will cost you just under $100 extra tho. It isnt a real hard job. Footpeg/rear brake lever/bashplate/right crankcase cover/clutch, primary drive gear assy all come off. Then the carby/inlet manifold/top engine mounts nee to come off to get the rocker cover out. Its tricky to get the rocker cover in and out but you need to tilt it back into the carb area (after the carb is gone), a bit of patience and a gentle touch will get it there. Also make sure you get the valve timing right when you install the new cam chain. Hope all goes well, cheers!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For what it is worth, I have a 650r and here is my story. I had accidently turned the flywheel the wrong way briefly while doing a valve adjustment. Well, it screwed up the decompressor thingy on the cam and made the LOUD metallic tap, click, tap, noise you describe.

All I did was take the rocker cover off play with the decompressor mechanism a bit and put it back together and it runs like a healthy pig now, no more ticking nose. Total cost was $3.99 for a tube of form a gasket, and 1 hour of my time. give it a shot.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have the same thing as above the tic goes away when I pull in the decompressor lever just a little bit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah the decomp wasn't engaging on the beast so I thought that might be making the sound,I adjusted it so it was working and still the tic tic was there so having done the valve clearances,fixed the leaking exhaust and the dodgy decomp and the noise still persists I have come to the conclusion that it is in the cam chain and I couldn't be bothered screwing with this bike anymore so I am not going to buy it and take it back to the dude selling it. Also the stand broke of the heap of siht and there is now a whopping big hole in the frame where the bracket is supposed to be. I have found a better one for sale 500km away for $400 less with a new 630 kit and no rattle, a friend with a truck going past is picking it up today.

Thanks for all the tips guys,I think I may have bought a lemon other wise.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By TheLastByte
      Contemplating picking up a BRP in the near future and looking for some perspective.The current owner claims that the bike has about six hundred hours on it, but there's no way for me to confirm as the odo's not accurate.
       
      I know brp's have a reputation for running forever on stock top ends, but they must eventually have an expiration date. What should I look for on a high mileage bike like this to make sure I'm not setting myself up for disappointment? Also, What are some non engine/transmission related issues I should look for?
    • By TanSnowman51
      Guys, 
      Have been riding my 650L for over a year and a half and have been loving every second! In August I moved back to Reno after finishing up my masters at Arizona State. I have been spending most of my time riding around verdi to stampede and the Dog Valley road area. Always looking for riding buddies. 
      Was curious what everyone was doing as far as Daves mods or jet kit for the upper elevations 4,000 to 8,000 feet?
      FMF Q4 exhaust, smog delete done so far!
       
      Thanks!
    • By Alexandre Askmo
      Hey dear folk!
       
      I need your help.
       
      A bit of background info, I’m a complete noob when it comes to holding a wrench and doing anything more than filling up the bike. I have however had an interest for as long as I’ve had a bike to make it mine, and that’s why I’m writing to you now. I just bought a donor bike, a Honda NX650 which a friend of mine is helping me fix up and then modify to my liking (I’m hoping to end up with a gorgeous scrambler in about 9 months).
       
      We found a hairline scratch in the cylinder and need to bore it. This leads me to my question.
       
      Should I get a 1st overbore performance piston or keep the compression ratio as is? If so is there anything in particular I will need to modify to tolerate the high compression piston?
       
      If I do get the performance piston, should I also get a new carburetor, hot cam, and new exhausts? I am planning on new exhausts anyway (2-1 from an XRL) and I’m planning on removing the airbox and getting a K/N pod air filter.
       
      Again, keep in mind I know nothing, my friend has however fixed up a bunch of XRLs and cars but never really used performance parts. Help me out with the decision please, I would also like to keep the whole build to a reasonable cost (I know this is a very relative number).
       
      I should also add that I want to keep the DNA of the bike, for example keeping the fuel tank instead of switching to a smaller rounder one as one usually sees in most custom builds. The aim of the whole build is to have an insanely fun bike to ride, both in the city and off-road, as well as giving it a bunch of my personality 😊
       
      Thanks a lot for any help!
       
      Best,
       
      Alex
    • By MrCitizen
      I've been rebuilding/restoring an XR650R for some years now (after toasting the motor in 2013). Sent the motor off to be rebuilt, had a local shop rebuild my forks and shock, and took care of most everything else myself.
      As of a couple months ago I had almost everything assembled and ready to run.

       
      As a final check before adding fluids to the bike, I decided to stick my boroscope into cylinder and take a look. The results were concerning.

       
      These boroscope pics looked so gnarly that I pulled the head off the motor to get a more thorough look.

       
      To say that I'm concerned is an understatement. I have pics of the motor internals pre-rebuild, and can confirm that this is definitely a new piston and replated cylinder. I also have all the old parts from the motor, so it does have a new cam, connecting rod, valves, and basically everything else I expected to have replaced.
      The builder "ran the motor briefly to confirm everything ran alright" and then shipped it back to me. I reached out to him with these pics and he said,
      The piston looks like this because he had it machined from 12:1 to 11:1 compression. The streaks on the cylinder wall are normal for one that isn't broken in yet. Regarding the valve impacts in the piston head: "My concern is that something may have passed through the cylinder. How does it run?" I've never run this motor. I can feel these streaks in the cylinder wall with my fingernail. Did he re-use a piston from some other motor?
      Is this dude jerking my chain or is this motor fine to run?
      He's a fairly well-known builder in the XR community and was recommended to me by guys in the (now-gone) XR650R forum.
    • By Jonas Reppe
      I got my XR600r dirt bike giving me a carb issue that I just can not get worked out. It starts first kick and idles well, throttle cracks off nice and crisp when you whack it, but if you ease into the throttle to just above idle it's a spit and sputter pile of shit! Lol. I can turn the idle speed adjustment up to a fast idle and it starts spitting and studdering just the same. Done a lot of research and it points to the pilot circuit. I put a rebuild kit in it and have taken it apart and cleaned it seriously 12 times now. I'm at the point of looking for a different carb body to try. They're about $100 though. A new keihn carb is $250 on eBay. Any thoughts? That pilot adjust screw doesn't seem to adjust anything until it's fully seated or falling out. It has ran ok in that idle to 1/4 throttle circuit before but it don't now. The last 6 removal/cleanings haven't made any changes, previous ones did improve the throttle snap when you whack it.
      The main needle clip is on the middle groove.
      I checked for air leak with some starting fluid when it was idling and seen no change to the way it ran, indicating no leaks. 
      Bike has stock jet sizes, foam filter, stock exhaust. 1,830' elevation here in South Dakota. 
      I'm baffled..
×