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Durable frame paint for restoration - NOT powdercoat.

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I'm restoring a 1975 Kawasaki Z1 900 that my Father (RIP) bought brand new. The bike is 98% original with the original frame build decal on the steering stem. I'm trying to preserve this decal so powdercoating is out of the question.

PJ1 is the only other frame paint I am familliar with. Any other brands you would recommend? Or should I send the frame out to a bodyshop?

When all is said and done, the bike will be a driver......but a careful driver. :confused:

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don't be so fast to discount powder coating. I've finished a number of vintage BMW frames in which if the original decals are destroyed, it loses much of it's value. There are professional release agents that will release the glue on old decals and they come off very easily. doing it right is not cheap and does take a bit of skill but it can be done safely. Todd

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don't be so fast to discount powder coating. I've finished a number of vintage BMW frames in which if the original decals are destroyed, it loses much of it's value. There are professional release agents that will release the glue on old decals and they come off very easily. doing it right is not cheap and does take a bit of skill but it can be done safely. Todd

I know what you mean, but it won't work on this. It almost resembles a small piece of paper with a section of packing tape over it.......I just remembered I had a pic.

900010.jpg

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PJ1 is no better than the rattle can stuff at your local hardware store. If you decide to rattle can it, save your money and skip PJ1.

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I've Used Rustoleum "hard Hat" Professional Available At "graingers" For A Sandrail And It's Way More Durable Than That At Ace Hardware.

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I've Used Rustoleum "hard Hat" Professional Available At "graingers" For A Sandrail And It's Way More Durable Than That At Ace Hardware.

That's a rattle can product? I'm definately looking into that. Thanks.

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Most Rattle can paints just don't hold up well. Automotive type paints use a hardener and once mixed only have short usable life measured in hours. It is that hardener that makes automotive paint so much tougher. One problem is the paint is generally sold in a gallon size and the hardener in a quart size. YOu mix 4 to 1. For small jobs like a bike that is just way too much. Once opened the hardener has a shelf life of at most a year.

I have heard that some paint shops will mix up a small batch and then sell it in a disposable rattle can. It's only good for a few hours, but otherwise it is like any other rattle. that give you the durability of good automotive paint, but you don'e have to buy a gallon.

If you do go the rattle can route go to a auto parts store and get some Duplicolor. I think that it is just about the best paint that you can get for this type of job. It comes in just about every color you might want.

Don't forget proper surface prep and priming. Without it no paint will last very well.

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or try an "appliance" type paint for recoating washing machines, dryers, etc...

Rattle can, and very durable. Preperation, and a clean surface is a must too...

Here is a pic of my 98 ZX-6R which I coated the swingarm, and frame with that stuff...

I then painted the body parts with the Kawi Pearl Blazing Orange color...

zx1.jpg

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i have used lcw duracoat on firearms. tough as hell once fully cured. its an enamel with a hardener. sold in small containers, and easily applied with an airbrush.

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