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ibeat specifics?


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It was explained to me that over 100 is leaner. BUT that is heresay only! Without the service manual we're all just guessing. Not a good place to be when tuning a performance machine...

Here is the answer found nested in the middle of this very long thread:

? You can adjust the FeedBack parameter #1 (FB1) while the O2 sensor is installed with the bike warm and running. This parameter seems to add (FB1>100%)or subtract (FB1<100%) fuel from the nominal open-loop map.

To me, this indicates it is a feedback from more than the O2 sensor alone. I'd guess it changes the map by +/- % depending on the state of the TPS. Other factors such as the manifold and atmospheric pressure sensors further add or subtract to the pulse width in open-loop mode. It makes sense, then, that the feedback sensors are there to allow leaning and richening of the "race map" as well as the "crap map". :eek:

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Took a ride yesterday on my TE 510. I believe my dealer did the ibeat to 105-107-105. The throttle gets really surgy(almost like it gasping for air) between the 5k-7k rpm range. I have the PU kit and the 02 sensor removed and plugged. Any thoughts based on the symptoms? I have to drive to the dealer, about an hour, to redo the ibeat and handle a warranty issue soon and I want to make the best of my trip at $4.50 gallon diesel. Any expertise is appreciated! RAMZ-- what did the ibeat kit run you?

DTD

That`s very rich

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Took a ride yesterday on my TE 510. I believe my dealer did the ibeat to 105-107-105. The throttle gets really surgy(almost like it gasping for air) between the 5k-7k rpm range. I have the PU kit and the 02 sensor removed and plugged. Any thoughts based on the symptoms? I have to drive to the dealer, about an hour, to redo the ibeat and handle a warranty issue soon and I want to make the best of my trip at $4.50 gallon diesel. Any expertise is appreciated! RAMZ-- what did the ibeat kit run you?

DTD

DTD-22, do you or your dealer know anything to indicate that values in FB2 & 3 do anything? It's my understanding that only FB1 has any function.

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Tuning w/ ibeat

So my dealer finally felt comfortable enough to plug in a customer bike and mine was the first. I did reinstall the O2 sensor on the advice of the mechanic. Ibeat is pretty straight forward and presents basic bike data in several ways. Things like throttle position, altitude(atmospheric pressure), temperature, engine speed, spark advance, manifold pressure, etc can be seen at a glance:

and you can see the same info in a more graphic way:

The things I was most interested in were TPS and fuel economy. Setting TPS is quite simple. With the throttle in the idle position after setting proper idle speed; which in the case of a TE250 is 1850rpm; simply click to check where it is and then click again to make a change if needed.

In another thread I reported how my performance increased but my fuel economy suffered after putting the power up kit on. My fuel economy went from 52mpg to 40mpg. I've been running with the O2 sensor removed for about 100 miles. Before we made any changes we pulled the plug and wow was it running rich!

The ibeat software has three adjustment parameters as it relates to fuel and throttle position: No 1, No 2 and No 3. The mechanic described these to me as low-throttle, mid-throttle and full-throttle. Factory settings were: 107%, 100% and 100%. 100% is base line. 107% is very lean. I should clarify that these were the factory settings after reconnecting the lambda sensor. We don't know what the lambda removed map was, only that it was very rich.

With the lambda installed first we reset everything to 100%. The low performance was fair. The mid performance was horrible (bogging) and the high performance was fair. We continued to tweak settings a few points each direction and I'd do a test ride in between.

After five test rides the settings I found to be satisfactory are: 97%, 93% and 103%. That means we enriched the low throttle position 3%, the mid position 7% and the high position we leaned out by 3%.

By leaving the lambda sensor in the ECU will be able to correct for altitude, temperature, etc and use these numbers as it's base line. With the lambda removed it would not be able to make the needed corrections and would be more like a carb'ed bike. These tests were just road tests at sea level at about 65 degrees F. I'm doing a DS ride this weekend that will vary significantly in altitude and temperature. I didn't have time to figure out my new fuel economy but we did pull the plug again after the test rides and it had dried out and was a perfect nut-brown color. I'll post back after the ride as to how these settings worked (or not) and my actual on trail fuel mileage.

There are several other pages and screens that are a part of the ibeat software but mostly they relate to fault codes and graphing. Happily I had no fault codes even with the throttle stop removed. There are also registration and identification pages that show your VIN, ENG#, ECU Version, operating hours and EEPROM version.

Mostly this software is no big deal and having a home copy to tweak fuel setup would be cool. Not $600 worth of cool but still handy especially if your dealer is not right around the corner...

From just North of the Golden Gate Bridge

So this thread has it wrong? He states that the more % over 100 is more lean????

DTD

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DTD-22, do you or your dealer know anything to indicate that values in FB2 & 3 do anything? It's my understanding that only FB1 has any function.

No, I believe the is a lot if mis-information going around regarding ibeat. I just posted an old thread from Dlvid that states <100 is rich. Everyone else seems to think >100 is rich. Does anyone know for sure how this software works??

DTD

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...Does anyone know for sure how this software works??

DTD

Probably someone at the factory does - or at least Mikuni.

I was there when DLvid was tuning up his bike and could smell how rich it was at different settings - the lower numbers sure smelled and sounded leaner. But the only real conclusion I reached was that it would be incredibly interesting to take the iBeat & bike to a dyno. Seymore seems to have already done that and has posted about it.

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I haven't spent any time on a Dyno yet. I do have a 2nd sensor bung installed that I can install a AFR data logger. I haven't had time to perform and document runs at various settings. I should be able to get time in next 2 weeks and will post the results.

I was told by Eraldo Ferracci that only FB1 is functional.

As far as the 4Krpm surging, one thing to think about or consider is that closed-loop system are prone to feedback oscillations when the response time (bandwidth) of 2 or more loop components are similar or close multiple to each other. For example if your holding a fairly stable throttle load at 4K (cruising) and the ECU is adjusting fuel to achieve 14.7 AFR from O2 sensor, it may cause condition where O2 sensor response time is similar to the engines response time to a fuel change. This can cause the feed back loop to go in and out of phase. This is similar to steering head shake and under or over steering. You may wan to look here for more fun reading.

http://www.expertune.com/tutor.html

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I think I caused some of the 4k issue myself by turning the air bypass screw in too far. I was using it to increase my idle speed up to 1900 but I noticed that it did affect the power and the stall ability. I didn't realize that it was an air bypass.

I should be able to let you know the stock settings from my TE450 by the weekend.

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My earlier post were only heresay (from a Husky mechanic) and seat of the pants feeling. I've never claimed otherwise. I'm as eager as everyone else for real data and real (accurate) information regarding tuning and performance. Hopefully we can get a dyno session together soon.

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Rode for another hour or so tonight. To clarify I am running the open loop race map. The surging/sputtering kicks in around 5800 rpms and is really bad around 6300. It doesn't matter which gear. Also, I ran out of gas tonight--- no warning light ever went on. Luckily I was only about a mile from my house albeit it was down a hilly twistie with no shoulder. Oh well the push was a workout I guess. I didn't set my trip meter for this tank but I swear I didn't have more than 40 miles or so on the tank.

DTD

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FB1 Only

+100% is richer, the FB1 adjust the entire scale by the % offset used, not only at idle or at low rpm as some think, ie - its not low/mid/high.

It`s had a couple of Dyno Runs now - averages 13.2:1 pretty consistently.

Going like a gun & has absolutely no power surging, backfires,hard start problems, crackling exhaust,glowing header pipes, stalling, what it does have is awesome linear power & is the best hill climbing bike i`ve had out on the trails - period.

30 Lts of Premium Unleaded on the weekend & not one stall out, happy days

First Race in two weeks, i`m confident it will be brilliant

I rode with a couple recently & they still have issues like those mentioned.

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FB1 Only

+100% is richer, the FB1 adjust the entire scale by the % offset used, not only at idle or at low rpm as some think, ie - its not low/mid/high.

It`s had a couple of Dyno Runs now - averages 13.2:1 pretty consistently.

Going like a gun & has absolutely no power surging, backfires,hard start problems, crackling exhaust,glowing header pipes, stalling, what it does have is awesome linear power & is the best hill climbing bike i`ve had out on the trails - period.

30 Lts of Premium Unleaded on the weekend & not one stall out, happy days

First Race in two weeks, i`m confident it will be brilliant

I rode with a couple recently & they still have issues like those mentioned.

overloadtt--

That is very encouraging. Your set at 100% FB1?? Are you running the open loop/race map? How's the mileage?

DTD

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overloadtt--

That is very encouraging. Your set at 100% FB1?? Are you running the open loop/race map? How's the mileage?

DTD

Arrow pipe - mode connector - Premium ULP - Irridium Plug - 13/50 Gearing.

Haven`t done a full power HP run yet, but seeing 48`s, i think 52 would be realistic.

Mileage is anywhere between 60kms & absolute best is 90kms per tank, (that was with 14/47 gearing)

I don`t check consumption much - i just fill up when it`s too low :eek:

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Arrow pipe - mode connector - Premium ULP - Irridium Plug - 13/50 Gearing.

Haven`t done a full power HP run yet, but seeing 48`s, i think 52 would be realistic.

Mileage is anywhere between 60kms & absolute best is 90kms per tank, (that was with 14/47 gearing)

I don`t check consumption much - i just fill up when it`s too low :eek:

Mode connector? Premium ULP? Is this referring to 02/lamda sensor and premium gas? I do need to get an iridum plug.

DTD

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Mode connector? Premium ULP? Is this referring to 02/lamda sensor and premium gas? I do need to get an iridum plug.

DTD

the connector that replaces the 02 sensor

Premium Unleaded Petrol

Iridium Plugs:applause:

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