2 stroke maintenance.

Ok, so Ive been riding all my life (5-16) and have never really had to maintain or take care of a bike. My dad has always done that. But now that he's letting me keep the bike at my house I am eager (sp?) to learn what all I have to do to take care of it and run it.

So, lets start with the basics.

4 ounces of oil to every gallon of gas, spreay the chain every once in a while...

But I am curious about the other chemical stuff. Like transmission oil, and cooland and stuff like that. Also, how often to change/oil the airfilter.

So Id really apreciate it if you guys could help me learn what all I need to do to keep the bike running well. Note that its a 1999 CR250r.

I am really curious about;

1. Transmission oil. When and how to change it and also what kind.

2. Coolent. When and how to change it and also what kind.

3. and all the other basic stuff like that.


Have you had a chance to ask your Dad these questions? It may be something he would want to teach you the way he does it.

Just a thought.

clean the air filter after every ride

Air filter ever ride or two for me.

Tranny oil, I use ATF, and change it every 2-3 rides, or after a race.

My chain gets oiled every ride, after cleaning.

Once a month, grease all main bearings (swingarm, head unit, etc)

every ride, make sure the cables are lubed.

Re-pack exhaust every 12-15 hours.

There is more, but check with your Pops...he will love to show you.

Airfilter every ride or two

Oil chain after cleaned, plus 2-3 times during the ride (day)

As for tranny oil, I use supertech Type F ATF (walmart). Drain the oil (drain bolt on bottom of bike tranny-take it out) then put the plug back in. The black cap on the right side of the bike by the kickstart, take that out and put oil in there. There is a check bolt on the side of your bike, take that out and keep the bike level. fill until oil comes out that. Put the check bolt back in. Shoot a little more oil in.

Antifreeze: We use prestone antifreeze. Mix it 50:50 with DISTILLED water. Fill the system (cap on right rad) and tilt bike side to side to release air bubbles.

anything else: grease linkage, topend, grease steering bearing, etc.

Pick up a service manual if you dont already have one.

Have you had a chance to ask your Dad these questions? It may be something he would want to teach you the way he does it.

Just a thought.

+1... As a Father I would be offended if my Son went to strangers on the internet to learn something I should be teaching him. On the other hand we don't know how old or your situation, But my 12 year old Son has been expected to do his own work on his bike(at least help) since he was 5 yrs old riding a PW50. He knows how to change his oil, clean filter, change a plug, check tire pressure ect. Glad your making an effort to take care of your bike. Do you have a manual? Thats the best place to start.

+1... As a Father I would be offended if my Son went to strangers on the internet to learn something I should be teaching him. On the other hand we don't know how old or your situation, But my 12 year old Son has been expected to do his own work on his bike(at least help) since he was 5 yrs old riding a PW50. He knows how to change his oil, clean filter, change a plug, check tire pressure ect. Glad your making an effort to take care of your bike. Do you have a manual? Thats the best place to start.

Thats awesome. I'm not ALLOWED to do maintenance on my bike. Dad won't let me. I think thats how much he secretly likes working on it though. He won't tell anyone about that.

al least you got somethin easy to work on. smokes are beautiful machines

Well that's ashame your ol' man doesn't teach ya how to work on stuff. How old are you? Do you have the owners manual? Do ya have any tools?

Ok, so Ive been riding all my life (5-16) and have never really had to maintain or take care of a bike. My dad has always done that. But now that he's letting me keep the bike at my house I am eager (sp?) to learn what all I have to do to take care of it and run it.

So, lets start with the basics.

4 ounces of oil to every gallon of gas, spreay the chain every once in a while...

But I am curious about the other chemical stuff. Like transmission oil, and cooland and stuff like that. Also, how often to change/oil the airfilter.

So Id really apreciate it if you guys could help me learn what all I need to do to keep the bike running well. Note that its a 1999 CR250r

I am really curious about;

1. Transmission oil. When and how to change it and also what kind.

2. Coolent. When and how to change it and also what kind.

3. and all the other basic stuff like that.


Wow, where to begin.......

Your 2 stroke is a marvel of mechanical simplicity. Compared to a 4 stroke (like my YZ450F), there are far fewer moving parts, and rebuilds are simple and cheap. It's good to see that a 16 year old wants to learn how to properly maintain his machine.

To answer your questions in order:

1) Any good JASO MA oil will do, as long as it does not contain molybdenum!!. Molybdenum, moly for short, is a very slippery substance that is absolute death to a plate clutch. The moly sticks to the plates, effectively destroying any grip the plates have. DO NOT USE IT!!!! It is designed to be used in engines that have a separate chambers for engine and transmission oils (see Honda CRF-R's and X's, any year). I change my engine/transmission oil (my bike uses the same oil for both, there is no separate engine/transmission chambers) every 5 hrs of running time. Oil breaks down with use, and replacing it is cheap and easy. Your bike doesn't have an oil filter, so you don't have to worry about that.

2) Coolant only needs to be replaced about every 2 years of riding. When replacing or topping up coolant, it is a good idea to use a motorcycle specific premixed coolant. A motorcycle specific coolant is designed to be used in an aluminum radiator/engine block setup. It's formulated differently from automotive coolant. The premixed coolant you can just pour into your radiator, without having to worry about finding distilled water and mixing it with the coolant in the proper ratio (50/50).

3) Other basic stuff:

Your bike is so KISS to work on, the only things you really need to worry about are: using a good gas and two stroke oil mix (synthetic oils burn clean, usually 32:1 for your bike), keeping your power valve clean (about once every 6-12 months depending on the oil you use and your riding habits). Rebuild your engine every year with a piston, rings, wrist pin, and gaskets.

Check your air filter after every ride and clean it when it's dirty

Check your trans. oil before every ride, change it when it's dirty. Oil is cheap!!!

Check all your bolts every now and then for proper tightness

A clean bike is an easy bike to work on!

Buy a service manual for your bike and READ IT!!!

When it's time to replace the chain (your manual will tell you when), I recommend a good O-ring chain and new sprockets.

I can't give any recommendations about jetting your carburetor, as I don't know your riding style, altitude, elevation, temps., etc.

Have fun!!!:confused:

I have a manual but its with my dad in Nevada. Ill get it next time he comes over though.

I just wanted to know some of the basic things.

Im going to figure out when the last time he cleaned the airfilter and oiled it. I think I should do that soon, bun Im not sure how to go about removing/cleaning it. He said the tranny oil was fine, but it sounds like you guys change it more than he does so I might have to do that soon aswell.

As far as bearings go Im not sure if Im techniacally okay with doing that. I mean if theyre easy to get to I can try, but it sounds kinda complicated and Im afraid I might screw something up.

And with the coolant, Im going to buy some and add some.

Im also curious about lubing the cable and brake fluid. How do I know if I need to do that/how to do that"?

I just talked to him about the air filter. And for the last while he hasent changed/oiled it because he hasent riden it anywhere dusty, but this past week we did, so I got to buy some filter stuff aswell.

What would you recommend that I buy.

Im already getting:

2 stroke oil

tranny oil

aif filter cleaner / oil



Edit: Thanks kent!

Im going to gather a list of what Ill be ordering from rockymountainatv to make sure it is okay.

I wouldn't use WD-40 as a lubricant. Use it to disperse water from the chain after washing, yes. Use that BEFORE you apply a good chain lube.

The question should be, what CAN'T you use contact cleaner for??:confused:

I use it whenever I need to clean a part I've taken off the bike. I don't use it on air filters (for that Simple Green works very well). Removing the air filter is simple: remove the seat, then remove the wingnut holding the air filter on. The filter will come out of the airbox (might take some wiggling) and then you remove the filter from the filter cage. At that point, you can clean the filter and reoil it (use the Search feature to find out some more tips).

Cable lubing is a good idea, I lube mine every couple of months. Cable lubers are cheap, as is cable lube.

wd40 will fling off. spring for a can of chain lube its tackier and will stick better. personally i dont like the chain wax type lube cuz they make a mess and its a pain in the butt to clean off

Why weren't you paying attention when your dad worked on your bike? I guess for me, part of the joy of motorcycle ownership is the upkeep and maintenance of the machine.:confused:

WD-40 is good for cleaning stuff and preventing rust not lubrication. Go to a auto parts store and get chain lube(it will be cheaper than a dirt bike shop).

HP2 is good oil and has worked the best for me.

And that K&N cleaner and oil is strictly for K&N filters. If you have a foam filter try somthing like belray or No-Toil foam filter oil.

also your 16 and dont know how to change a air filter. I feel bad for you.

So those are all good? The tranny doesnt have Molybdenum?

And do I need cleaner and oil for my airfilter?

Also, do I get 75, 80 or 85W tranny oil.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By Bryan Bosch

      Rockstar Energy Husqvarna Factory Rider Starts his Quest to Defend Cross-Country Rallies World Championship
      March 15, 2018 – (Motor Sports Newswire) – Rockstar Energy Husqvarna Factory Racing’s Pablo Quintanilla will re-start his 2018 international rally racing campaign on March 24 to 29 at the Abu Dhabi Desert Challenge in the United Arab Emirates. Working hard towards returning to full competitive fitness following a foot injury sustained during the closing stages of the Dakar Rally, Pablo’s teammate Andrew Short is expected to join the Rockstar Energy Husqvarna Factory Racing squad at the 2018 Merzouga Rally in mid-April.

      With the Abu Dhabi Desert Challenge playing host to the opening round of the 2018 FIM Cross-Country Rallies World Championship, the event in the UAE will see Pablo Quintanilla begin the defence of his FIM Cross-Country World Championship title. Securing eighth overall at the 2018 Dakar Rally in January, the Chilean rally star is already looking forward to a solid return to racing aboard his FR 450 Rally machine.
      Successfully wrapping up his debut participation at the prestigious Dakar Rally with a top 20 result, Andrew Short has been recuperating from a fractured tibia and fibula on his lower right leg. Resuming his training sessions in the middle of March, the American has his eyes set on making a return to racing at the Merzouga Rally on April 15/20, in the dunes of Morocco.
      Celebrating its 28th edition in 2018, the Abu Dhabi Desert Challenge is a six-stage-long rally taking place in the southern part of the United Arab Emirates. Kicking off with the traditional Super Special Stage on Saturday, March 24, the event will continue with five more days of racing in the Liwa Desert before competitors reach the finish line inside the Yas Marina circuit on March 29, 2018.

      Pablo Quintanilla: “Abu Dhabi will be our first race after the Dakar and I’m really looking forward to it. It’d be good to start the season carrying the #1 plate on my Husqvarna as the reigning champion. With it being the first race for the new season, it is important for everybody. My goal is to get a good race pace from the beginning in order to be inside the group of leading riders. The season will be long and my plan is to continue improving my pace as the racing goes on. I want to get back my racing speed and also remain strong throughout the event in Abu Dhabi. Taking place in deep sandy dunes, the Desert Challenge is always a tough event and it is also highly probable that we will have to race in high temperatures. It’s going to be a challenge but I’m looking forward to it.”
      Husqvarna Motorcycles. Tradition on two wheels since 1903.
      Husqvarna Motorcycles are widely known and respected in the off-road world for a heritage of competition and numerous motocross and enduro world championships. Originally founded in Sweden in 1903, Husqvarna Motorcycles have been designed and manufactured in Mattighofen, Austria since 2013.
      Rockstar Energy Drink
      Rockstar Energy Drink is designed for those who lead active lifestyles – from Athletes to Rockstars. Available in over 20 flavors at convenience and grocery outlets in over 30 countries, Rockstar supports the Rockstar lifestyle across the globe through Action Sports, Motor Sports, and Live Music. For more information visit: www.RockstarEnergy.com
      Source: Husqvarna Motorcycles GmbH

    • By Kev_XR
      If you own an XR250, many of these tips will apply, however, the carburator jet sizes will be different.
      It really helps others answer your questions.
      I will fix them as time allows.
      Until then the Search Feature and enter "kevin's xr400 mods".
      The results will bring up most of the links.
      Here are some frequently asked questions I have answered before.
      Which XR should I buy?
      The longer the straights, the taller the hills, the deeper the sand; the bigger XR you want. The tighter the trail, the smaller hills, firmer terrain; the smaller XR you want.
      The XR400 has a great motor that will pull you almost anywhere. You can be sloppy on a hill climb on an XR400, where you have to keep the 250 singing. The XR400 weight is most noticable when you drop it or try to stop it going down a long downhill. (Moooomentum!)
      The XR250 feels like a mtn bike compared to the XR400. My friend rode his XR250 for years before decided he needed more power. Even then you can add a 300 kit and get good power.
      If you were heading to ride fireroads in Baja, I'd tell you to get the 600/650.
      To the tight woods, get the 250.
      A lot of both, the 400.
      Dual-sporting? Go bigger for more freeway, but don't show up at the trailhead with too big of a bike.
      All of the XR's are great. Pick the one that fits your needs.
      Gordon's Mods for XR400 (Uncorking the bottle up performance)
      Gordon's Mods for XR400
      XR400 History
      The changes to the XR400 have been listed here several times. This list appears to be complete.
      In addition, HairyScary discusses how to tell if a part has been updated by the part number. Good tip!
      XR400 history
      Getting the Spark plug out
      It seems the MotionPro spark plug socket does not work on the XR400R, but works on the XR250R.
      There is an OEM tool kit being sold on eBay that seems to work.
      717448 XR400 oil change
      Here is a way to make changing the oil much cleaner.
      This tips is really handy if you have a skid plate.
      XR400 oil change
      XR400 FAQ by Paul Gortmaker
      Paul usually has very good info.
      Small bolts
      BE CAREFULL with the bolts on the oil filter cover!
      An oil covered bolt will not torque at the same rate as a dry bolt.
      The friction doesn't build up, the force simply builds until the threads strip.
      This is the reason many people strip out these bolts.
      Here is an execllent website on bolts, oil, and misc values.
      Did you ever wonder why a 8mm box wrench is half as long as a 18mm box wrench?
      It is shorter as most 8mm bolts cannot take very much torque.
      I highly recommend getting getting an 1/4" socket set.
      I bought the Craftsman set at Orchard (owned by Sears), which tends to sell them for less.
      What is the Snorkle?
      This place has a description and pic, it's easy after you pull the seat. I siliconed a piece of coarse screen (fiberglass) over mine to keep bugs and stuff out. - NORTEXT
      717439 XR400/250 Pre-Filter
      After pulling the snorkle, there is a big hole on the top of your XR400. My friend showed me this prefilter trick.
      767409 XR400 Engine Bog, Pilot jet, and the Fuel Screw
      On XR400's twisting the throttle from fully closed to wide open will cause the engine to "bog" or in some cases die.
      Engine Bog, Pilot jet, and the Fuel Screw
      831305 Valve adjustment (Am I retarded...)
      Inspect and adjust valve clearance while the engine is cold (35C, 95F).
      Valve adjustment
      389095 bigger jets (Lists stock jet sizes.)
      96-97 XR400's were jetted assuming you would remove the intake and exhaust snorkel.
      98 and later XR's were jetted assuming you would leave them in.
      bigger jets
      739907 Cheap Tool for Setting the Fork Oil Height
      There are some really nice tools out there for doing this job.
      This tool costs $4.49 at Kragen.
      Cheap Tool
      392932 high altitude jetting
      There are two big factors for jetting, elevation and temperature.
      high altitude jetting
      Allen screws for the XR400 carb
      This lists the screws you need to convert the XR400 carb to use allen screws.
      Allen screws
      Screws for the brake and clutch after removing the stock handguards
      TBD - There is a post with the shorter screw part numbers for after the stock handguards are removed. Use search.
      Very quick engine hop up
      This is a very minimal change that should take less than an hour.
      Most of that time is removing the float bowl (3 screws).
      If you decide to do the full "Gordon's Mods" later, you will need to replace the jets again.
      o Pull the intake snorkle.
      o Add a UniFilter.
      o Pilot jet to 55, main jet to 155. (Assuming sea level and moderate air temps.)
      Source: Motocross Action magazine.
      Quick engine hop up
      Gordon's mods
      Baja Designs Baja Baffle with 96' spark arrestor.
      Pull the intake snorkle, UniFilter, 60 pilot jet, 162 main jet.
      (Depending on altitude and temp.)
      What to add to a new XR400 or XR250?
      Acerbis wrap around style handguards (saves levers and bars as they don't dig in)
      Baja Designs skid plate (Made by Utah Sports Cycle)
      Acerbis fork/disc protector
      Grease headset and rear linkage
      Spend you money on the suspension, not a pipe!
      First get some stiffer fork springs (96-97, 98-99 years)
      Fork revalve (cost: 2 qts of oil & time)
      Shock revalve (cost: oil, nitrogen, shim stack, friend who knows shocks)
      Jetting for Altitude (XR400)
      Assuming at sea level and 68 degrees, you would use a 60 pilot and 162 main.
      At 5000 feet and 68 degrees.
      Jettting correction:
      5000 feet and 68 degrees.
      Main 0.96 * 162 = 155 -> 155 main
      Pilot 0.92 * 60 = 50.6 -> 55 pilot
      Due to your elevation, you have less air and less fuel.
      Your bike will not behave the same as a bike at sealevel.
      First, check the fuel screw. If it does not affect the idle speed, you have the wrong one.
      kevin's xr400 mods
    • By 230F
      Jetting the 230F
      By: Phil Vieira
      This project takes no less than 2 hours if you have never done jetting to a bike before. It took me 1.5 hours, to take my bike apart, take out the needle, change my pilot jet and the main, and take pictures along the way, but I have seen the inside of my carb 3 times, so I know my way around it pretty well…
      You should be jetting this bike right when you get it home. This bike comes lean from the factory. If you don’t know what that means, it means that the bike is getting too much air, in terms, a hotter engine, and your plugs will get hotter, and a decrease in HP. To make your engine last longer, do this.
      These jetting combos are for a 2000 feet and below scenario. Any altitudes higher, you should do a search on the forum. If it cannot be found, post on the forum. Please don’t post on the forum “How do I do this…” You have all the answers here.
      This project comes to a grand total of less than 30 dollars. The needle is 20, the main jet is about 3 dollars, and the pilot is 5 dollars. You may not need to do the pilot jet depending on your situation, but again, if you’re riding 2000 feet and below, it’s a good idea to get a pilot jet.
      The jets I used consist of a 132 main, 45 pilot and the power up needle with the clip on the 4th position.
      Part numbers:
      16012-KPS-921 – Needle (Includes Power up needle, Clip, and needle jet)
      99113-GHB-XXX0 – Main jet (Where XXX is the size)
      99103-MT2-0XX0 – Pilot jet (Where XX is the size)
      For the Jets, just tell them you need jets for a regular Keihn carb, (also known as a Keihn Long Hex) main jet size XXX, pilot jet size XX. They should know the part numbers. For the needle, bring the number along. If you are lazy, they should have a fiche and they can look up the numbers. Then again you can take in the old jets, and make sure they match up to the new ones.

      Now, the tools you will need are as follows:

      ~A collecting cup of some sort. I used a peanut butter jar.
      ~Ratchets for the following sizes:
      - 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm
      - Extension for the sockets needed
      ~Phillips and Flathead screwdriver (Be sure these are in perfect condition. A badly worn screwdriver will strip the screws)
      ~Needle nose pliers
      ~”Vise grips” or known as locking pliers (Two)
      ~Open end wrench 7mm and 12mm
      ~ It’s a good idea to have a extra hand around
      (Not needed, but I highly recommend tiny Phillips and flathead screwdrivers (Pictured next to the jar and the ¼” extension) I recommend these for removing a couple things since you can put pressure with your thumb on the end and unscrew it with the other hand. This insures that you will not over tighten any parts, and ensure that you will not strip the heads of the bolts.
      Ok, now that you have the tools, let’s start by putting the bike on a bike stand. I put it on the stand rather than the kickstand because it’s more stable and sits higher. I hate working on my knees. Start by taking the number plates off. Yes, both of them. The right side, you take off one bolt and the top comes off of its rubber grommets, pull the top off, and the plate comes right off. The left hand side, use the 10mm socket to take the battery bolts off, and then take the Phillips bolt near the back. Again, rubber grommets are used to hold the top in place. Take the seat off. There are two mounting bolts on the back:

      Those two bolts are both a 12mm socket. Use the open end wrench on the inside, and use the socket on the outside. You may need to use an extension if you don’t have a deep socket. Once you have the two bolts off, slide the seat back, and lift it up. This is what you have. Notice there is a hook in the middle and a knob on the tank. That is what you are sliding the seat off of.

      Now that the seat is off, you must take the gas tank off. Don’t worry, you won’t spill any gas any where, I promise. On the left hand side of the bike where the valve is, slide down the metal clip holding the tube in place. Turn off the gas supply, and slip the tube off slowly. Now take off the two bolts in the front of the take. This is on the lowest part of the gas tank in the front, behind the tank shrouds. The socket you will use is an 8mm socket. Take the bolts all the way off and set them aside. Now look back at the last picture posted. On the back of the tank, there is a rubber piece connected to the knob and the frame. Slip that rubber piece off of the frame. Pull the vent tube out of the steering stem and lift the tank up. Don’t tip it, and lay the tank aside where you won’t trip on it. This is what you’ll end up with:

      It may be a good idea to take a rag, and wipe all the dirt off the top of the bike if any. You don’t want anything dropping down into the carb. If you do, engine damage is the result. A clean bike is always a good thing! Now we must drain the gas out into that container. This is very easy. Make sure you open the garage door, windows, whatever, to let the fumes out. Breathing this crap is bad. Here is where the drain screw is:

      (Don’t worry about removing the carb, that comes later) This is on the right side of the carb, on the float bowl. The vent tube that goes down to the bottom of the bike is where the gas drains to. Put the jar under that tube and start to unscrew that screw, enough so that the gas leaks into that jar. Once the gas doesn’t drip anymore, close the screw all the way. Now on to the top of the carb. We are going to take this cover off:

      This cover comes off by removing the two screws. Once removed, the lid comes off as well as the gasket. Flip it over and set it aside. Do not set the gasket side down on the ground, as it will get contaminants! Here is what you are facing:

      The angle of the camera cannot show the two screws. But one is visible. It has a red dot, and opposite of that side is a darker red dot. I made it darker because it’s not visible, but that is where it is. This is where I use the miniature screw drivers to get the screws. I magnetize the screwdrivers, and use care to make sure I don’t strip the heads. Metal pieces in a piston are not good! Remove the two screws. Put these screws on a clean surface so they do not get contaminants. Now get your vise grips and set it so that it will lock onto the throttle, not too tight, not too loose. Set the vise grips on the seat. Start to open the throttle slowly as you guide that “plunger holder” (as I call it) up to the top. Once you have the throttle all the way open, take the vise grips, and lock it so that the throttle does not go back any more. What I do is I hold it pinned and lock it up against the brake so it doesn’t rewind on me. If you don’t have locking grips, a friend will do, just have them hold the throttle open all the way until you are finished. How fold the plunger holder to the back of the carb and pull the piece up to the top. Take care not to remove it, as it is a pain to get back together! If it came apart on you, this is what it should be assembled to:

      Once you get the holder out of the slider, set it back like this:

      As you can see, the bar is back 45 degrees, while the holder is forward 45 degrees to make a S. Here is what you are faced with when you look down on the carb:

      Where the red dot is where the needle lies. Grab needle nose pliers and carefully pull up the needle out of its slot. This is what the needle looks like once it is out.

      Now we must move the carb to take the bowl off. Untie the two straps on the front and back of the carb. Don’t take them off; just loosen them until the threads are at the end. Take the front of the carb off the boot and twist the bowl as much as you can towards you. Tie the back tie down to that it does not rewind back on you. This is what you have:

      Now we must take off the bowl. Some people take that hex nut off to change the main jet, which you can, but you cannot access the pilot jet, and you can’t take out the needle jet (a piece the needle slides into), so we need to take it off. It’s just three bolts. As we look at the underside of the carb, this is what you will see:

      The bolts with the red square dots are the bolts you will be removing. These are Phillips head bolts, and the bolt with the blue dot is your fuel screw. This is what you will adjust when the time comes, but keep in mind where that bolt is. You need a small flat blade to adjust it.
      Well, take those screws off, and you are faced with this:

      The blue dot is for cross reference, which is the fuel screw once again. The green dot is the pilot jet. You can remove this using a flat blade screwdriver. Just unscrew it and pull it out. Once you pull it out, set it aside and put in the 45 pilot jet you got. The red dot is the main. You remove this by using a 6mm socket. Just unscrew it. If the whole thing turns, not just the jet, but the 7mm sized socket under it, don’t worry, that piece has to come out as well. If it doesn’t, use a 7mm to unscrew it off. Here is what the jets look like:

      Pilot Jet

      Main jet attached to the tube. Take the main jet off by using an open end wrench and a socket on the jet. Again, it screws right off.
      Here is what you are faced with if you look form the bottom up.

      From left to right: Main jet, Pilot Jet, Fuel screw. Now in the main jet’s hole, if you look closely, you see a bronze piece in the middle of that hole. We are going to take this off. Since I did not do this part (I only changed my pilot jet when I took these pictures) there are no pictures taken for this section but this is really simple to do if you’ve been a good student and know where things go. You should know anyways, you have to put the bike back together!
      (Notice: There have been discussions about these needle jets being the same. Only change this needle jet if the one you have is worn out. If you do not have the old needle, a older drill bit bigger than 3/20ths (.150), and smaller than 11/100 (.11") Use the tapered side of the bit, set it down in the hole and tap it out carefully.)
      Now take your OLD needle, I repeat, the OLD needle because what you are going to do next will ruin it. Pull the clip off with your needle nose pliers, or a tiny screwdriver to pry it off. Then put the needle back in the hole where it goes. That’s right, just to clarify, you took off the needle, and you put the needle back in the hole with no clip. Slide the point side first, just as it would go normally. Now if you look at the bottom of the carb, the needle is protruding past the main jets hole. Grab another pair of locking pliers (vise grips as I call them) and lock it as tight as you can on the needle. Pull with all your might on the needle. Use two hands. Have a friend hold the carb so you don’t pull it off the boot. Tell them to stick their fingers in the hole that goes to the engine, and pull up. After pulling hard, the needle jet should slip right off. Then notice which side goes towards the top of the carb. There is one side that is a smaller diameter than the other. Take the new needle jet, and push it up into the hole the way the old one was set. Just get it straight. Take the tube the main jet goes into, and start threading it in. Once you can’t tie it down anymore with a ratchet, unscrew it and look at the needle jet to make sure it’s set. That’s it for the needle jet. Now let’s start putting the carb back together.
      (Notice: Many people have destroyed jets and such by overtighting them! Use the thumb on the head of the wrench and two fingers on the wrench to tighten it down.)
      Thread the main jet into the tube it goes into, and then start putting it back on the carb. Thread the pilot jet in as well if you haven’t done so already. Remember these carburetor metals are soft as cheese, so don’t over tighten the jets very much. What I do is I put my thumb on the top of my ratchet, and use two fingers closest to the head of the ratchet to tighten the jet. That’s how tight I go when I tie them back in.
      Now before we put the carb back together, let’s adjust the fuel screw. Take a small screwdriver, and start screwing in the fuel screw until it sets. Again, do not over tighten, just let it set. Then count back your turns. Count back 1.75 turns.
      Now we must put the bowl back on. The white piece that came off with the bowl goes back as followed:

      If you look directly under the carb, the round hole is aligned with the pilot jet. Take the float bowl, and put it back on.
      Untie the rear clamp and the front clamp as well. Slip the carb back the way it used to. Make sure that it is straight up and down with the rest of the bike. The notch on the front boot should be aligned with the notch on the carburetor, and the notch on the carburetor should be in that slot. Tie the clamps down securely.
      Let’s put the needle in. These are how the needle numbers go:

      The top clip position is #1, the lowest one, closest to the bottom, is #5. (The picture says six but it is five in this case) For reference #1 is the leanest position, while 5 is the richest. I put the clip in the 4th position. Read at the bottom of the page and you can know what conditions I ride in, and you can adjust them to your preference.
      Put the clip in the new needle, slip it in. Take the vise grips off your grips and start guiding the plunger holder down to the bottom. Remember not to let that assembly come apart because it is a pain in the ass to get it back together! Once you get it to the bottom, put the two screws on, and then put the cover on.
      Now that you have done the carburetor mods, there is still one thing you want to do to complete the process. Don’t worry, this takes less than a minute! On the top of the air box there is a snorkel:

      As you can see, you can slip your fingers in and pull it out. Do that. This lets more air in to the air box. Don’t worry about water getting in. There is a lip that is about 1/8” high that doesn’t let water in. When you wash, don’t spray a lot under the seat, but don’t worry about it too much.
      The next thing you must do is remove the exhaust baffle. The screw is a torx type, or you can carefully use an allen wrench and take care not to strip it:

      The screw is at the 5 o’clock position and all you do is unscrew it, reach in, and yank it out. This setup still passes the dB test. The bike runs 92 dB per AMA standards, which is acceptable. Just carry this baffle in your gear bag if the ranger is a jerk off. I’ve never had a problem, but don’t take chances.
      That’s it! Start putting your tank on, seat, and covers. After you put the seat on, pull up on the front, and the middle of the seat to make sure the hooks set in place.
      Turn on the bike, and take a can of WD-40. Spray the WD-40 around the boot where it meets the carburetor. If the RPM rises, you know you have a leak, and the leak must be stopped. You must do this to make sure there are no leaks!
      Here is my configuration:
      04’ 230F
      Uni Air filter
      132 Main Jet
      45 Pilot Jet
      Power up needle, 4th clip position
      Fuel screw 1.75 turns out
      Riding elevation: 2000ft - Sea level
      Temperature – Around 60-90 degrees
      Spark Plug Tips
      When you jet your carb, a spark plug is a best friend. Make sure your spark plug is gapped correctly, (.035) but that’s not all that matters. You want to make sure the electrode is over the center, and you want the electrode to be parallel, not like a wave of a sea. Put in the plug, and run the bike for 15 mins, ride it around too then turn it off. Then take off the spark plug after letting the bike cool. The ceramic insulator should be tan, like a paper bag. If it is black, it is running rich, if it is white, it is running lean. The fuel screw should be turned out if it is running lean, and turned in if it is running rich. Go ¼ turns at a time until your plug is a nice tan color.
      Making sure your bike is jetted correctly
      While you are running the bike for those 15 mins to check the plug color, you want to make sure it’s jetted correctly now. Here is what the jets/needle/screw control:
      0- 3/8 throttle – Pilot jet
      ¼ to ¾ throttle – Needle
      5/8 – full throttle – Main jet
      0-Full – Fuel screw
      Pin the gas, does it bog much? Just put around, is it responsive? When you’re coming down a hill, the rpm’s are high and you have no hand on the throttle, does it pop? If it pops, it is lean and the pilot jet should be bigger. If it’s responsive your needle is set perfectly. You shouldn’t have to go any leaner than the 3rd position, but I put mine in the 4th position to get the most response. Your bike shouldn’t bog much when you have it pinned. If it does it is too rich of a main jet.
      Determining the plug color, you will have to mess with the fuel screw.
      That’s it, have fun jetting, and any questions, post on the forum, but remember to do a search first.
      Also, if your bike requires different jets due to alititude, humidity, or temperature, please post the following so we can better assist you:
      Average temperature
      Altitude (If you do not know this, there is a link in the Jetting forum that you can look up your alititude)
      Average Humidity
      What jets you are currently running
      What the problem is (If there is one)
      Just do that and we'll help you out the best we can.
      EDIT: The girl using this login name is my girlfriend. You can reach me on my new login name at 250Thumpher
      Then again, you're more than welcome to say hi to her!
      -Phill Vieira
    • By kashlak
      JUst curious of how many bikes,quads,trikes people owned over the years and what they were?
      78 honda atc 70
      85 honda atc 110
      ?? handa trail 70
      78 yamaha mx 80
      85 yamaha yz 60
      82 yamaha it 125
      85 kawasaki kxt 250 tecate
      79 yamaha yz 400
      86 yamaha yz 125
      85 yamaha yz 80 (playbike)
      92 kawasaki kx 250
      93 yamaha xt 350
      and last but not least a 99 kawasaki kx 250
    • By Bosch232
      Were the XL's the predecessor to the XR's?
      I have a friend who's looking at an old XL350, and I don't know anything about these bikes.