2008 kx250f question.

This may sound really stupid, but it's true.

I didn't know you had to bleed air out of the forks, ever. Until i watched a video on youtube and was like.. :confused:

How do i do it on an 08 kx250f, and would this be why i can't even get the forks to go down. they are too stiff for me, but i still cannot get the things to go down.

Also, how many clicks towards the soft should i do to try and soften it up?

if there that bad - try loosening the bolts on the axle (non brake side) spin the wheel fast as u can and yank the fr brake on - do this 3 or 4 times then lock it up on the bolts - sounds like you have the forks mis-aligned.

mark.

Do youself a favor and get some fork bleeders put in in place of the screws....I prefer steath racing technolgy because they cant get water in them and rust up.Once you get those it will become clearer.How much do you weight????? You might be too light.But yea i dont know why they wont go down that guy in the last post is probly right

i weigh 140 and the guy i bought it from said he had it setup for 160.

But surely i'd be able to compress them a little easier?

I'm getting a suspension revalve soon, do you think that will fix it? and if the forks are aligned, will the company fix that also?

i weigh 140 and the guy i bought it from said he had it setup for 160.

But surely i'd be able to compress them a little easier?

I'm getting a suspension revalve soon, do you think that will fix it? and if the forks are aligned, will the company fix that also?

Yes they will.

Do youself a favor and get some fork bleeders put in in place of the screws....

They are nice to have, but a heads up. I had 6 issues with bleeders leaking both on the compression and reb this past year. So if your forks go A-wall on you, be sure to check them first.

Thats why i like the steath racing ones.There no diffrent than the stock screw...

BTW here is a pice of what im describing (this is me)

DSC_0530.jpg

I cannot get them front forks to go down.

So i guess it's a revalve.

to soften them, turn the top clicker all the way out(anti clockwise) that should give you a feel of how a softer fork will work for you.

to soften them, turn the top clicker all the way out(anti clockwise) that should give you a feel of how a softer fork will work for you.

On both forks?

The one the says s-h above it?

Is that the clicker your talking about?

The forks are bound up. You need to take it to a shop and have them properly torque the triple clamps and center the axle.

The forks are bound up. You need to take it to a shop and have them properly torque the triple clamps and center the axle.

Alright, will a kawasaki dealer be able to do this?

Also, what does bound up mean?

I'm kinda a newbie to all of this. lol

On both forks?

The one the says s-h above it?

Is that the clicker your talking about?

Doofosmitch,

I weigh 135 lbs. in street clothes and the stock suspension was way to stiff for me. I ended up replacing my springs after my second ride and it has made a huge difference. I purchased .42kg/mm front fork springs and a 4.7kg/mm shock spring. You may find that you don’t need a re-valve with the proper spring rates front and rear for your weight. You are only 5 lbs. heavier then I am so I thought I would share what has worked for me. The first thing you want to do is set the rear sag at 102-105mm.with the shock cold. Make sure you are wearing all of your normal gear so you can get an accurate adjustment. With the proper spring rates for your weight, try setting the compression clickers (the one’s on top) on your forks between 8-12 clicks out from the fully closed position. Adjust the rebound clickers (on the bottom) on your forks to 13-14 clicks out from fully closed. Try setting the rebound clicker on your shock (the one on the bottom of the shock by the linkage) to 10-11 clicks out from fully closed. Set the shocks High Speed compression adjuster (the 14mm hex) to 2-1/4 turns out. Set the shocks Low Speed compression clicker to 10-12 clicks out from fully closed. By adjusting the amount of fork oil in the forks outer chamber it will have the greatest effect on the last 4” of suspension travel. I have been removing fork oil 10 cc’s at a time out of each fork leg after every ride in an effort to allow me to use the full travel of my front suspension. The bike comes with 370 cc’s of oil stock and I am currently running 330 cc’s in each fork leg. You can remove the oil very easily by removing the front forks and allowing it to drain from the air bleed screw hole. These settings work very well for me with the softer springs. I would not recommend these settings for you at 140 lbs. with the stock springs, only after installing softer springs.

Alright, will a kawasaki dealer be able to do this?

Also, what does bound up mean?

I'm kinda a newbie to all of this. lol

Most dealers won't know how to do this properly. This is how I do every bike I work on.........

1.) Install both forks and set fork height using calipers or a ruler. It is important that fork height be exactly the same for both sides. Tighten pinch bolts to the proper specs (Top: 18 Ft-Lbs | Lower: 15 Ft-Lbs).

2.) Install the axle and tighten the axle nut to proper spec (75 Ft-Lbs). If the axle turns while tightening, tighten one right side axle pinch bolt to hold axle in place.

3.) Tighten both left side axle pinch bolts to spec (17 Ft-Lbs).

4.) With the left side axle pinch bolts and axle nut tightened, loosen the right side axle pinch bolts. Take a small flathead screwdriver and carefully tap it into the slot between the two right side axle pinch bolts. This will enlarge the axle hole. You will then be able to grab the bottom of the right side fork tube and push it in and pull it out freely. The fork will settle naturally into position on the axle without binding.

5.) Remove the screwdriver and tighten the right side axle pinch bolts to spec (17 Ft-Lbs).

If you're wondering if your forks are currently bound up, put your bike on a stand and start this procedure at Step 4.

You can check my website for more tips or just come by my shop and I will show you.

doc

Most dealers won't know how to do this properly. This is how I do every bike I work on.........

1.) Install both forks and set fork height using calipers or a ruler. It is important that fork height be exactly the same for both sides. Tighten pinch bolts to the proper specs (Top: 18 Ft-Lbs | Lower: 15 Ft-Lbs).

2.) Install the axle and tighten the axle nut to proper spec (75 Ft-Lbs). If the axle turns while tightening, tighten one right side axle pinch bolt to hold axle in place.

3.) Tighten both left side axle pinch bolts to spec (17 Ft-Lbs).

4.) With the left side axle pinch bolts and axle nut tightened, loosen the right side axle pinch bolts. Take a small flathead screwdriver and carefully tap it into the slot between the two right side axle pinch bolts. This will enlarge the axle hole. You will then be able to grab the bottom of the right side fork tube and push it in and pull it out freely. The fork will settle naturally into position on the axle without binding.

5.) Remove the screwdriver and tighten the right side axle pinch bolts to spec (17 Ft-Lbs).

If you're wondering if your forks are currently bound up, put your bike on a stand and start this procedure at Step 4.

You can check my website for more tips or just come by my shop and I will show you.

doc

Thanks man,

I will eventually be coming up to you for a revalve.

Just trying to save up the money!

Thanks man,

I will eventually be coming up to you for a revalve.

Just trying to save up the money!

With the problem you seem to be having right now a revalve won't fix. You should bring the bike to me whenever you can and let me check it out to see what is actually going on (like forks bound up or whatever) and then we can figure out where your money is better spent. This won't cost you anything.

doc

With the problem you seem to be having right now a revalve won't fix. You should bring the bike to me whenever you can and let me check it out to see what is actually going on (like forks bound up or whatever) and then we can figure out where your money is better spent. This won't cost you anything.

doc

NICE :confused:

With the problem you seem to be having right now a revalve won't fix. You should bring the bike to me whenever you can and let me check it out to see what is actually going on (like forks bound up or whatever) and then we can figure out where your money is better spent. This won't cost you anything.

doc

Awesome thanks

With the problem you seem to be having right now a revalve won't fix. You should bring the bike to me whenever you can and let me check it out to see what is actually going on (like forks bound up or whatever) and then we can figure out where your money is better spent. This won't cost you anything.

doc

fair play to the doc - its nice to see the pro's just wanna help out unlike some who wanna line there pockets - good on yer doug!

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